Peaches is an adventurous four pitch, grade two, 5.8 rock climb established by Yvon Chouinard and Kathryn Collins in 1980, and has seen few repeats since. Though only graded 5.8, if twenty foot runouts above small brass nuts puts bees in your bonnet, this might not be the climb for you.
“Every Bit of 5.9” – Dihedral Of Horrors (5.9, II) – Ship’s Prow – Grand Teton Nat. Park (08.10.22)
On August 10th, 2022 I reconnected with an old-friend to climb the classic Dihedral Of Horrors (5.9, II) on the Ship's Prow in Grand Teton National Park. Instead of spraying about a route with plenty of available beta, this article will serve as mostly a photo dump, to round out 10K2Far, plus a few route recommendations to aspiring climbers.
Birthday Sends on Baxter’s Pinnacle 🎂 – South Ridge (5.9+, II) – Grand Teton N.P. (10.05.22)
October 5th was Bobbi Clemmer's birthday, and to celebrate we repeated one of our favorite lowland multi-pitch climbs in Grand Teton National Park, the South Ridge of Baxter's Pinnacle. Bobbi earned her trad stripes on this classic 4-5 pitch route, leading all but the final 5.9 crux pitch. Having only climbed two years, the birthday girl has come quite some way.
Building Confidence – Climbing the Sentinel Ice Couloir (WI3/4) – Grand Teton National Park, WY (03.10.22)
The Sentinel Ice Couloir is a two... or three... or four pitch moderate ice climb on the southern aspect of Albright Peak (north side of Death Canyon). While hardly a classic, this quirky route provides an alpine style climb in a very dramatic setting, and probably the easiest accessed pitch of grade four water ice in Grand Teton National Park. Despite the Tetons receiving a walloping of snow the past week, Connor James and I set out determined to make this long planned mission happen, no matter the powder that stood in our way.
Sending 5.11 – Five Things I Learned in My First Year of Climbing
One year ago (Sept. 2020) I bought my first pair of climbing shoes. My cardinal goal was simple - 5.11 by day 365. By month 11 the chains were clipped, and along the way I learned many lessons. From sport to trad, alpine faces to lowland boulders, I pushed my limits. This article is a distillation of my first year climbing experience - the article I wish I read as a budding and infinitely inspired young climber.
The Deadliest Route in the Tetons – The East Face of Teewinot Mountain – Grand Teton N.P. (Aug. 2021)
The East Face of Teewinot Mountain is the deadliest route in Grand Teton National Park. But why? After my third lap on the 12,326 foot beauty, I believe I have a good idea. This article doubles as both a trip report and a discussion of "mountaineering in the information era" - a.k.a. 2021
Undeniably Airy – A Free Solo Ascent of The Grand Teton’s Exum Ridge – Grand Teton N.P. (07.30.21)
In the last week of July 2021, I completed a bucket list free-solo ascent of the ultra-classic Exum Ridge route on Wyoming's second tallest peak, the Grand Teton.
Ropeless on the Grand Teton – An Owen-Spalding Free Solo – Grand Teton N.P. (Sept. 2018)
In September of 2018, I completed my first climb and free-solo of the Grand Teton via the Owen-Spalding Route. Here's the story of what at the time was my most monumental and perspective shifting experience in these great mountains.
Up To Our Heads – “Fat Man’s Misery” Canyon – Canyoneering – Orderville, Utah
On April 19th, 2021, Bobbi Clemmer and I tried our hands at the West Fork of Fat Man's Misery, a remote slot canyon requiring multiple rappels and water crossings just outside Zion National Park
From a Local’s Perspective – A Grand Teton National Park Rescue
My experience as a responding party in a Grand Teton N.P. Search and Rescue operation