The hanging WI5-6 dagger of "Mummy Four" stands as the single most impressive ice formation on the east side of Hyalite Canyon besides the ever famous Winter Dance. To reach it, Chris Hackbarth and I climbed the Scepter (WI5) and "Mummy Three" (M6, WI3) in what turned out to be an excellent grade three kind-of day in Hyalite Canyon - an alpine style climb in the land known for short approach ice cragging.
My Own Little World – Flashing The Thrill Is Gone (M4+, WI4) & The Matrix (M4, WI4-), Lessons Learned & Conditions Report – Hyalite Canyon, MT (2.18-2.19, 2022)
After belaying Brian Emory on his first coveted red-point of "The Thrill" just seven days before, I returned with Scott Melin to attempt an "on-sight" lead. We climbed for two days at the Unnamed Wall and Mummy Cooler Areas, ticking ascents on Mummy II, The Matrix, Feeding The Cat, The Fat One and of course, The Thrill Is Gone. A full conditions report and photos are included.
Hyalite Fever – First WI-4 Flash, “The Thrill Is Gone” (M4, WI4) & Conditions Report – Hyalite Canyon, MT (2.10-2.11, 2022)
Breaking news: Our Teton snowpack has achieved "grim" status - but luckily it's remained damn cold. Instead of futzing around on skis, Brian Emory and I took off to Bozeman for some mid-week ice climbing. I managed to lead & flash two WI-4's, my first at the grade, and Brian sent his long time project, The Thrill Is Gone (M4, WI-4). Read on for a few anecdotes and a conditions report in the Genesis and Unnamed Wall areas.