On March 25th Liam Wylie and I connected for a quick lap in the Lake Louise Ice Gully - my second time climbing this classic and aesthetic four-pitch moderate outside Dubois, WY. Spoiler alert, Liam racked up his first lead!
Ovisight (WI6, IV) – South Fork Daze 4 – Cody, WY (02.2023)
Fully visible from South Fork Road, Ovisight is a three pitch WI6 climb of grand proportions, dominating the upper reaches of the Legg Creek drainage with a triad of impressive free-standing pillars, all WI5 or harder.
The Moratorium (WI4, II), High On Boulder and Pillar Of Pain (WI5, IV) – South Fork Daze 1 & 2 – Cody, WY (02.18.23)
The Moratorium (WI4) is the longest continuous waterfall ice climb (~100M, 300 feet) in the South Fork of the Shoshone River. High On Boulder is a three-pitch true classic at the WI4 grade, and when connected with the Pillar Of Pain, forms a five pitch alpine style route with two additional pitches up to WI5/6.
Eagle Scout Pillar (WI5, I) – A Special Day – Teton Canyon, WY (02.05.23)
The Eagle Scout Pillar, a.k.a. Mack-Tyson Pillar, is perhaps the gem of steep waterfall ice in the Teton Range. Tucked into the deep recedes of Teton Canyon, "the pillar" provides a consistent 35M of vertical or overhanging climbing ranging anywhere from WI5- to WI6R. On a fine snowy Sunday, Jorge Hedreen and I both led... Continue Reading →
Golden Tears (WI4, III) – THE Northwest Wyoming Classic – Dubois, WY (02.02.23)
Golden Tears (tiers?) may the "most classic" waterfall ice climb in the greater Jackson Hole area, with 500 feet of terraced WI4/WI4+ climbing above Lake Louise and the sleepy town of Dubois, Wyoming. Finding the beast in suitable attire can be finicky business, as some years the lower pitches don't form at all, but on Thursday February 2nd, 2023, Jorge Hedreen and I scored big in full ice conditions.
“One of the Best, and Headiest” – Mummy Cooler III & IV (via Scepter) (WI6-, M6, III) & Other Ice Happenings – Hyalite Canyon, MT (01.22.23)
The hanging WI5-6 dagger of "Mummy Four" stands as the single most impressive ice formation on the east side of Hyalite Canyon besides the ever famous Winter Dance. To reach it, Chris Hackbarth and I climbed the Scepter (WI5) and "Mummy Three" (M6, WI3) in what turned out to be an excellent grade three kind-of day in Hyalite Canyon - an alpine style climb in the land known for short approach ice cragging.
A Classic Wasatch Ice Linkup – Squash Head (WI4, II) and Backoff (WI4, II) – Santaquin Canyon, UT (12.17.22)
On Saturday the 17th of December, 2022, Colten Moore and I climbed a local-classic link-up of Squash Head (WI4, II) and Backoff (WI4, II), for a total of four stunning pitches in the beautiful and sleepy Santaquin Canyon of Utah's Uinta Mountains.
South Side Exploration – Lehman’s Lament (Grand Wall, WI3-4), Green Pea Pillar (WI4+) and South Wall Conditions Report – Teton Canyon, WY (12.10.22)
Early season ice on the south side of Teton Canyon with Connor James - Lehman's Lament (WI3R) and Green Pea (WI4+)
Early Ice in Teton Canyon – Boy Scout Falls (WI3+, M3, R) Trip Report & Eagle Scout Conditions Report (11.24.22)
On Monday November 21st, 2022, Mike Parri and I walked the southern wall of Teton Canyon, scouting the Eagle Scout (Mack-Tyson) Pillar and eventually climbing Boy Scout Falls in precariously thin WI3+, M3 conditions, seemingly the first ascent of winter 2022/23.
Day One Pump – Prospector Falls (WI4-, IV) – Death Canyon South, Grand Teton Nat. Park (11.19.22)
On Saturday November 19th, 2022, Eric Boomer and I made the arduous five mile pillage into Death Canyon for one of Grand Teton National Park's finest early season ice climbs. The main flow was well formed and climbed at WI4-.