A week before the onset of winter 2022, Connor James and I connected the dots on a more sustained variation to the traditional, and somewhat classic, Cardiac Aretes (5.9/5.10-, II) on Omega Buttress. Our line followed the lower half of Man O’ War (5.8, II) for two pitches of adventurous and varied, albeit discontinuous climbing... Continue Reading →
Almost, But Not Really, Classic – Peaches (5.8, II) – Stuart Draw, Grand Teton National Park (10.14.22)
Peaches is an adventurous four pitch, grade two, 5.8 rock climb established by Yvon Chouinard and Kathryn Collins in 1980, and has seen few repeats since. Though only graded 5.8, if twenty foot runouts above small brass nuts puts bees in your bonnet, this might not be the climb for you.
“Every Bit of 5.9” – Dihedral Of Horrors (5.9, II) – Ship’s Prow – Grand Teton Nat. Park (08.10.22)
On August 10th, 2022 I reconnected with an old-friend to climb the classic Dihedral Of Horrors (5.9, II) on the Ship's Prow in Grand Teton National Park. Instead of spraying about a route with plenty of available beta, this article will serve as mostly a photo dump, to round out 10K2Far, plus a few route recommendations to aspiring climbers.
Coffee Cake and Quartz Crystals on the Taminah Arete (5.9, III) – Matternought Peak, Grand Teton N.P. (08.07.22)
The Taminah Arete (5.9, III) ascends the prominent aesthetic south ridge of Matternought Peak, an 11,360 foot southern spur of the larger Gilkey Tower. On Sunday August 7th, 2022, Liam Wylie and I completed the climb in 19 hours car-to-car - one of our finest Teton adventures, though perhaps a tent would have served us well.
First Teton 5.10 – Climbing The Snaz (5.10a, IV), Cathedral Rock, Grand Teton N.P. (07.31.22)
The Snaz is an ultra-ultra-classic 800 foot, grade IV, 5.10- rock route on the south face of Albright Peak in Grand Teton National Park, first established by Yvon Chouinard & Mort Hempel in 1964. With an emphasis on wide cracks and a big crux roof, the Snaz played to my weaknesses for a supremely challenging outing.