On Saturday I enjoyed a Garnet Canyon/Glacial Gulch link-up, skiing the Dike Snowfield to Teton Glacier, climbing to the Tallboy Col and eventually skiing the rarely descended SE face of Peak 11,751 (East summit of the East Prong). Both descents were personal firsts, a great day in the hills.
West Glass Rando – Bottomless in the West Hourglass Couloir – Nez Perce – GTNP, WY (03.08.23)
The West Hourglass Couloir begins at 11,400 feet on the West Ridge of Nez Perce, averaging about 1,000 feet of 40 degree fall-line couloir skiing with a 50 degree crux, and an even longer runout. In full, the line is quite simply 2,200 feet of Teton bliss, an absolute classic Teton powder descent. The striking... Continue Reading →
Ovisight (WI6, IV) – South Fork Daze 4 – Cody, WY (02.2023)
Fully visible from South Fork Road, Ovisight is a three pitch WI6 climb of grand proportions, dominating the upper reaches of the Legg Creek drainage with a triad of impressive free-standing pillars, all WI5 or harder.
The Moratorium (WI4, II), High On Boulder and Pillar Of Pain (WI5, IV) – South Fork Daze 1 & 2 – Cody, WY (02.18.23)
The Moratorium (WI4) is the longest continuous waterfall ice climb (~100M, 300 feet) in the South Fork of the Shoshone River. High On Boulder is a three-pitch true classic at the WI4 grade, and when connected with the Pillar Of Pain, forms a five pitch alpine style route with two additional pitches up to WI5/6.
Eagle Scout Pillar (WI5, I) – A Special Day – Teton Canyon, WY (02.05.23)
The Eagle Scout Pillar, a.k.a. Mack-Tyson Pillar, is perhaps the gem of steep waterfall ice in the Teton Range. Tucked into the deep recedes of Teton Canyon, "the pillar" provides a consistent 35M of vertical or overhanging climbing ranging anywhere from WI5- to WI6R. On a fine snowy Sunday, Jorge Hedreen and I both led... Continue Reading →
Golden Tears (WI4, III) – THE Northwest Wyoming Classic – Dubois, WY (02.02.23)
Golden Tears (tiers?) may the "most classic" waterfall ice climb in the greater Jackson Hole area, with 500 feet of terraced WI4/WI4+ climbing above Lake Louise and the sleepy town of Dubois, Wyoming. Finding the beast in suitable attire can be finicky business, as some years the lower pitches don't form at all, but on Thursday February 2nd, 2023, Jorge Hedreen and I scored big in full ice conditions.
“One of the Best, and Headiest” – Mummy Cooler III & IV (via Scepter) (WI6-, M6, III) & Other Ice Happenings – Hyalite Canyon, MT (01.22.23)
The hanging WI5-6 dagger of "Mummy Four" stands as the single most impressive ice formation on the east side of Hyalite Canyon besides the ever famous Winter Dance. To reach it, Chris Hackbarth and I climbed the Scepter (WI5) and "Mummy Three" (M6, WI3) in what turned out to be an excellent grade three kind-of day in Hyalite Canyon - an alpine style climb in the land known for short approach ice cragging.
An Argument For Three-Piece Bail Anchors – Piton Rips on Rappel – First Hand Account [opinions]
A first hand account of a "bomber" piton ripping from a rappel anchor while ski mountaineering in the remote necks of Grand Teton National Park. Amidst a growing climate of "two-piece" alpine anchors, this article presents a compelling argument for placing a third, especially when pitons are involved. Carl rappelling from four-pieces in the Tallboy's... Continue Reading →
Sub-Four Hours in the Four Hour Couloir (+ recon photos) – Shadow Peak/Nez Perce, Grand Teton N.P. (12.16.22)
On December 16th I got out for my first steep ski of 2022/23 in the ever-popular Four Hour Couloir on Shadow Peak. Not surprisingly it was well hacked by at least three parties, but the snow was soft enough for an enjoyable and quick morning lap before heading off to Utah for Christmas break. This was my third time skiing the Four Hour. Recon photos of the Sliver Couloir included.
A Classic Wasatch Ice Linkup – Squash Head (WI4, II) and Backoff (WI4, II) – Santaquin Canyon, UT (12.17.22)
On Saturday the 17th of December, 2022, Colten Moore and I climbed a local-classic link-up of Squash Head (WI4, II) and Backoff (WI4, II), for a total of four stunning pitches in the beautiful and sleepy Santaquin Canyon of Utah's Uinta Mountains.