The Beyer East Face is a highly reputed Teton classic, weaving a logical 900 foot line up one of the most impressive walls in Grand Teton National Park, with several standout pitches and an exciting summit scramble to the 13,775 foot summit of the Grand Teton. Noah Burbanc and I climbed the route in 17 hours car-to-car on September 26th, 2026.
Home Sweet Home – Full Symmetry Traverse (5.5, III) – Cube Point, Sam’s Tower, Symmetry Spire, Ice Point, Storm Point – Grand Teton National Park, WY (09.21.26)
The Full Symmetry Traverse is a pleasant ridge scramble tackling five unique peaks - Cube Point (9,638’), Sam's Tower (9,800’), Symmetry Spire (10,560'), Ice Point and Storm Point (10,052') via a highly aesthetic ridge in the North-Central Tetons. I onsight soloed the route, including down-climbs, on September 21st, 2026.
Free As Can Be – The Zar Wall (5.11c, 9p, 900′) – Universal Wall – Mount Charleston, NV (07.11.26)
The Zar Wall is a magnificent piece of route-finding on one of Mount Charleston's proudest walls. Weaving a clever and devious line through a myriad of natural features - cracks, corners and generously featured faces - the Zar has a traditional climbing feel despite only requiring 18 quickdraws.
An Introductory Progression to Mixed Climbing & Drytooling in Hyalite Canyon (2025)
Montana's revered Hyalite Canyon is one of the best North American venues for learning mixed climbing and drytooling, two invaluable skills for serious winter climbers. Below are my five favorite beginner mixed routes in Hyalite, presented as a progression culminating with the "best single pitch mixed climb in the United States" - The Thrill Is Gone (M4+, WI4).
Two Days in Whitney Portal – Becky Route (5.9, III) and Nimbus (5.10c, III) – Whitney Portal, CA (Nov. 2025)
On our way to Death Valley from a tortoise course in Ridgecrest, Bobbi Clemmer and I impulsively dipped our toes into the renowned multi-pitch granite of Whitney Portal. In two short days we climbed the Beckey Route on El Segundo Buttress, and Nimbus on Whitney Portal Buttress. Both were excellent.
3, 2, 1, Liftoff – Spaceshot (5.6, C2, IV, 1200’) – Leaning Wall – Zion Nat. Park, Utah (10.18.25)
Spaceshot is one of the classic moderate clean aid routes and introductory big walls of North America, following a continuous 900 foot crack system in the heart of Zion National Park.
One Two Punch – The Consolation (5.9, 7 pitches, 800′) – Tahquitz Rock – Idyllwild, CA (09.20.25)
On Saturday September 20th, 2025, I climbed another long and classic Tahquitz crack line with new partner Simon Lee. The Consolation offered several pitches of quintessential granite jamming, a particularly strenuous crux, and a few spectacular exit pitches on the venerable Whodunnit (5.9, III).
Vertical Spelunking – Tunnel Vision (5.7+ R, 6 pitches, 770′) – Angel Food Wall – Red Rocks NCA, NV (08.30.25)
Tunnel Vision is the most unique route I've encountered in my climbing career. Four pitches of wild chimneys and wide cracks lead to the namesake "tunnel pitch", a 30 meter diagonal bombay chimney which passes through an incredible varnished tunnel almost dark enough for a headlamp. This is three dimensional climbing at its finest, and a must climb for the grade anywhere!
Still Classic – Prospector Falls (WI4, II) with Bobbi! – Death Canyon, GTNP (11.24.24)
The Alpine Peanut has become an ice climber, so we headed to arguably Grand Teton National Park's most classic winter ice route - Prospector Falls. We worked our way up the main flow at solid WI4.
It’s Time! – High Fidelity (WI3+, M4, II) – Hyalite Canyon, MT (11.17.24)
High Fidelity is a classic early season multi-pitch ice and mixed adventure in Hyalite Canyon, understated at the WI3+, M4 grade. Our thin conditions produced a climb closer to WI4, M5+. I was joined by the Alpine Peanut herself, a proud effort for her third day ever ice climbing. Winter is here!!