The North Face of the Middle Teton holds two classic alpine routes in a commanding setting, the North Ridge (5.6, rock) and the Northwest Ice Couloir (5.6, AI2, steep snow). The two can be linked together to form a fusion technical mountaineering route popular with winter climbers. The East Face is one of the Fifty... Continue Reading →
Sending 5.11 – Five Things I Learned in My First Year of Climbing
One year ago (Sept. 2020) I bought my first pair of climbing shoes. My cardinal goal was simple - 5.11 by day 365. By month 11 the chains were clipped, and along the way I learned many lessons. From sport to trad, alpine faces to lowland boulders, I pushed my limits. This article is a distillation of my first year climbing experience - the article I wish I read as a budding and infinitely inspired young climber.
The Deadliest Route in the Tetons – East Face of Teewinot Mountain – Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY (08.2021)
The East Face of Teewinot Mountain is the deadliest route in Grand Teton National Park. But why? After my third lap on the 12,326 foot beauty, I believe I have a good idea. This article doubles as both a trip report and a discussion of "mountaineering in the information era" - a.k.a. 2021
Undeniably Airy – A Free Solo Ascent of The Grand Teton’s Exum Ridge – Grand Teton N.P. (07.30.21)
In the last week of July 2021, I completed a bucket list free-solo ascent of the ultra-classic Exum Ridge route on Wyoming's second tallest peak, the Grand Teton.
Ropeless on the Grand Teton – An Owen-Spalding Free Solo – Grand Teton N.P. (Sept. 2018)
In September of 2018, I completed my first climb and free-solo of the Grand Teton via the Owen-Spalding Route. Here's the story of what at the time was my most monumental and perspective shifting experience in these great mountains.
Redemption on Cloudveil Dome – East Ridge (4th-5.4) – Grand Teton N.P. (06.2021)
The East Ridge of Cloudveil Dome should be a Teton classic. From steep snow to high quality rock this route is the perfect half day adventure or early season training objective.