Joshua Tree National Park is Bobbi and I’s favorite place for single pitch trad climbing. In 2025 we spent five months in and around Josh, and climbed some 130 pitches. The three routes which defined our season were Run For Your Life (5.10b R), Falcon and the Snowman (5.10c R) and Illusion Dweller (5.10b).
For folks more interested in trip planning, a full tick list with grades and quality ratings for every route is available at the bottom of this article.
Joshua Tree holds a special place in Bobbi and I’s heart – a mythical wonderland of countless granite boulders sculpted by magma, water, wind and time, strewn haphazardly across a vibrant high desert of technicolor cacti, pastel flowers, threatening yucca and the enigmatic Joshua Tree. We took our first climbing-centric vacation here in January 2024, crimping, jamming and smearing ourselves into a delirium of split tips and achy tendons. We returned in January 2025, and after surviving another revelatory two weeks voiced mutual dreams to own a second home in “Josh” someday. While known for nails hard and unapologetically bold single pitch traditional climbing, Joshua Tree really has it all: bouldering, steep modern sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing up to 400 feet, thousands of cracks in every size, beginner jug hauls and mind bending slabs. Rest day activities include picturesque hiking to craggy mountains and abandoned mines, excellent trail running, star gazing, scrambling, and superb camping. The town of Joshua Tree is energetic, bulging with coffee shops, bakeries, diners, a ridiculously well stocked climbing store, art exhibits, book shops, farmer’s markets and any other hipster amenity imaginable. Were it not for brutally hot summers and an unreasonably long distance from snowy mountains, I could imagine living in Josh forever.
In the spring of 2025 Bobbi and I underwent a massive career change, moving from our respective jobs as Private Chef and Produce Department Manager to Environmental Consulting in the Mojave Desert. The story behind that shift is best left for another day. As it pertains to this article, the most important part is we now spend 7-9 months in the desert annually. Last year we lived just outside or within Josh for four months – can you say “pinch me?” We sunk our teeth deep into our favorite climbing destination, scampering up hundreds of routes and assimilating with the historical granite crystals deeper than ever before.
August and September, our first two months around Joshua Tree, were difficult. Tahquitz and Suicide Rock, tucked into the San Bernardino Mountains at 7,000 feet, are the summer climbing destinations for Josh locals. But like any monolithic mountain range, thunderstorms often derail climbing. On stormy days we sought to the shadiest nooks of the much drier Joshua Tree, but as it turns out, 100 degree ambient heat can spoil friction on even the shadowed of north faces. You may already know – Joshua Tree is renowned for sandbagging. Compared to North American granite venues, climbs in Joshua Tree usually feel 2-4 grades more difficult. To make matters worse, Josh monzogranite is incredibly friction dependent. Footwork is by far the most important skill for success here, and to quote a longtime Joshua Tree veteran, “in warm temps the crystals just don’t work.” I learned this lesson particularly hard, routinely punting in the 5.10a and 5.9 range, and fighting like a dog on 5.8 – grades I reliably onsight or haven’t fallen on in years. Many days were emotionally spoiled by failure to accept poor conditions. I can be a very stubborn mountain athlete, clinging to ski mountaineering objectives despite no overnight freeze, braving thawed mixed climbing to reach rotten icicles that were in perfect shape months prior, and battling up alpine rock climbs in desperately cold, wet, or otherwise unfavorable conditions. This Joshua Tree summer I did exactly that, whipping frequently, succeeding seldom, and whining like a juvenile along the way. I feared I was getting weak, progressing towards the inevitable performance dip fluent with rising adult responsibilities.
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On October 23rd we wrapped up our work season, moving to the park for the first of three extended climbing stints. Temperatures had finally dipped, and despite extraordinarily low confidence my climbing performance resurfaced. Apparently the rumors were true – no amount of brute force can overpower poor friction, and once the friction returns brute force isn’t needed. Within days our confidence and stoke for Josh climbing was revitalized, and dreams of years past percolated to practicality. We had three particular dream routes in three unique styles. Crack climbing: Illusion Dweller (5.10b), a 35 meter tips to fists journey widely considered the best 5.10 in Joshua Tree. Slab climbing: Falcon and the Snowman (5.10c R), the king line of Joshua Tree’s slab epicenter Echo Rock. Face climbing: Run For Your Life (5.10b R), a mercilessly runout test-piece and another contender for best Joshua Tree 5.10. Beyond noted goals, we just wanted to climb a ton – pushing grades, repeating classics, and unearthing forgotten gems.
Pretty quickly I jumped on Run For Your Life. This notorious Charles Cole route is shady nearly all day – a great way to beat lingering summer heat – perched high above Hidden Valley on the Tumbling Rainbow formation. My fingers were especially steely from hangboarding, gym climbing and bouldering through summer, and I had a special dream route of similar style in Red Rocks – Rock Warrior (5.10b R, 6p, 800’) – for which I felt Run For Your Life would be a proper proxy. I wrote an entire article about Run For Your Life as part of a larger essay on traditional climbing ethics, so I’ll keep this story brief. After clipping six bolts with no supplementary gear in 90 feet I took a 30 foot lob from the final mantle, but returned for a successful redpoint the following day. Bobbi followed with such margin I’d bet she could lead it. The route was truly spectacular, a deceptive quest of never ending crimps and edges on bulletproof granite varnish. Other gems from our first two week stay were the off-width intensive Orange Flake (5.8, 4 pitches, 400’) on Saddle Rock, Strawberry Jam (5.9) and Dogleg (5.8) in the Hidden Valley Campground, and Stick To What (5.10a R) on Echo Rock.
Two weeks later we arrived back in Joshua Tree after two weeks in Whitney Portal and Red Rocks. Temps were even better, and we had a scant four days before visiting family in Southern California for Thanksgiving. Intermittent rain showers, pesky wind, and sore bodies from a month of full-time climbing kept any serious ambitions at bay, but we still managed a few neat routes. Jeepers Leepers (5.9 R) was the unexpected gem, a special 5.9 trad face on unique patina buckets in Jumbo Rocks. Pope’s Crack (5.9+) was perhaps the best 5.9 crack we’ve ever climbed. And the Overseer Direct (5.10a R) was the cranky, punchy, quintessential Joshua Tree scary sandbag exclamation point. The normal Overseer (5.9) is a park classic, starting with easy blocky rambling and ending with a thin hands crux going out a massive roof 100 feet off the deck. The direct start tracks a vague incipient seam to the same crux roof, with insecure 5.10 climbing protected solely by RP’s and small wires. Of all the routes we climbed in Joshua Tree, this was the most heady. But the ultimate gem of this window was undoubtedly Falcon and the Snowman (5.10c R). Until ten minutes before tying in, the Falcon wasn’t even on my radar. It had rained so heavy the day before we almost took a rest day. Our lazy afternoon consisted of two generic 5.8 slabs in Echo Cove, and a surprise onsight of the one-move-wonder Battle of Britain (5.10b). I was seeking a cooldown when evening sun broke free from cloud purgatory, casting a deep orange spotlight directly on Falcon. In one glance our stoke soared from non-existent to one million.
By any quantifiable metric Falcon is not a classic. But among the rare breed of ground-up slab enthusiasts it’s known as a good route, and the hardest with a guidebook star on Echo Rock. Falcon is sandwiched between the all-time classic Heart and Sole (5.10a) and revered Quick Draw McGraw (5.10a), with four bolts zig-zagging up the center of a massive heart shaped flake. I first noticed the route when rappelling off Heart and Sole, but didn’t touch any holds to preserve an honest onsight. As someone who is drawn to atypical routes, the twisting bolt line immediately caught my eye, connecting subtle dishes, ripples and crystals up an otherwise remarkably smooth face. But at “Joshua Tree 5.10c” with 15-20 foot runouts, the moment needed to be right. 11 months later, at sunset, I tied in and started off. The crux comes shortly after clipping a high first bolt – a brutal single toe mantle on a minuscule black crystal with brail code handholds. The remainder clocks closer to 5.10a, but sustains difficulty longer than its neighbors. I spoiled my onsight falling nonchalantly at the second bolt, blew the crux mantle on second go, and successfully redpointed on take three. The year before, Bobbi and I watched an unknown climber overcome the final runout at sunset, high stepping valiantly on 5.9 edges 20 feet above the last bolt and glowing heroically in the fading winter crimson light. One year later, that person was me. Watching Bobbi top-rope flash while Joshua Tree descended into November night was equal parts beautiful, tranquil, and prideful.
After Thanksgiving we arrived back in Hidden Valley – one last push before heading home to winter. As we learned on our first two winter vacations, true winter in Joshua Tree is when hard climbing conditions peak. Everyday was bluebird – highs in the fifties or low sixties, lows in the thirties. By this point every variable was aligned. Our bodies and minds were fed and rested, temperatures were perfect, and a waning climbing season provided a surge of urgency. It was time to face the music, to test ourselves against one of Joshua Tree’s most famous routes, Illusion Dweller. The 35 meter arcing and oscillating crack takes protection the entire way, and was by far the safest of my three dream routes, but for some unknown reason I was terrified. In hindsight, I was afraid to measure myself against such prestigious stone. Every North American climbing legend worth two cents has graced this crack. Hell, it has a craft beer named after it. My best friend and climbing mentor free-soloed it. At this point I’d wiggled up some two dozen 5.10’s in Joshua Tree, but I knew Illusion Dweller would be the real test.
There are two distinct cruxes on Illusion Dweller, bouldery tips laybacking right off the ground, and a flaring hand crack out a square cut roof just before the chains. The remaining 30 meters is a crash course in slippery Joshua Tree jamming of all sizes. I carried a double rack of cams from #0.2 to #2 and used quite literally every single one of them, augmented with a single #3 and half dozen wires. Several times the wheels teetered from my wagon, but I managed to hold on with puffs, grunts, and very little style. A no hands rest before the final roof allowed pump to drain, but suspense to build. As my feet skittered from tricky smears in a now fiery late morning sun, I thrutched to a sloping jug, cut feet, and scummed knees to salvation. Was it glamorous? Not in the slightest. Was it pleasant? I’m not really sure. But ultimately I was extremely satisfied with my effort, and grateful to belong on such a historic climb. The Peanut crushed beyond expectation, achieving a valiant two hang ascent. Turns out that damned roof is a notorious send killer.
After Illusion Dweller our energy gradually waned. Dappled Mare (5.8, 4 pitches, 400’) on the Lost Horse Wall, and Bat Crack (5.6, 2 pitches, 200’) on Intersection Rock were pleasant, light hearted, adventure outings. Tax Man (5.10a) was a sinister and stellar punctuation to our streak of hard crack climbing. Damper (5.9), Captain Kronos (5.9) and Jack of Hearts (5.9+) were yet another three sleeper 5.9 cracks worth seeking out. Repeating classics like Double Cross (5.7+), Hands Off (5.8), Looney Tunes (5.9) and Pinched Rib (5.10a) kept nostalgia high and hearts full. And of course, no stay in Joshua Tree would be complete without uncovering a long forgotten ground-up slab. Good To The Last Drop (5.9 R) on The Wall filled this niche. The guidebook calls the final runout “heinous”, but I only read the description after I survived the route. If you’re into that sort of thing, spot the ninety foot golden seam hanging above the Hidden Valley Campground, left of the massive Damn Jam chimney. Scramble to the base, tie the belayer to the first bolt, and hop across a chasm to the wall. Two bolts protect playful climbing on hollow flakes, leading to a vertical crack which takes gear until flaring out 30 feet below the last bolt on a bumpy vertical slab. The climbing defending the last bolt is a psychedelic experience, an exercise in footwork, balance and mental fortitude – all things Joshua Tree. Risk aside, both Bobbi and I thought Good To The Last may have been the best friction slab we climbed all year, and I look forward to repeating it for years to come.
We returned to Teton Valley with even more appreciation and stoke for Joshua Tree than before. Not only is Josh a great place to climb, but it’s a pensive for personal growth. Throughout mid-summer I learned the importance of rest, self love and acceptance. In fall I l internalized the value of waiting for optimal conditions to capitalize on peak climbing goals. In winter I unified with a natural flow, ascertaining that relaxation and a gentle itinerary can be conducive to performance. But above all else, an extended stay in Joshua Tree reinforces the value of mindful disconnection. The mystical forcefield of this unique desert environment remains impervious to cell phone reception. Yes – we have a Starlink too – but fortunately our battery nor wallets can afford to run it all night. In Joshua Tree we watch the sunset and moonrise each evening, rise to the sun, galavant around the boulders like children, run shirtless through the expansive desert like coyotes, climb inspiring lines to our hearts content, and share warm meals around a campfire every evening. In other words, we’re truly present.
The Tick List
Copied from my climbing log, this is every route Bobbi and I climbed in Joshua Tree during 2025. Star rating is given with a maximum of four stars. Four stars is a classic caliber route worth seeking out individually, three is a great route, two is a good route, and one is forgettable. No stars are given to routes we did not reach the top of.
| Route | Location | Style | Grade | Pitches | Brandon | Bobbi | Stars | Date |
| Jack Of Hearts | White Cliffs | Trad | 5.9+ | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 12/25 |
| Bat Crack | Intersection Rock | Trad | 5.6 | 2 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 12/25 |
| Dappled Mare | Lost Horse | Trad | 5.8 | 4 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️ | 12/25 |
| Tax Man | Lost Horse | Trad | 5.10a | 1 | Onsight | Bail | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 12/25 |
| Mr. Bunny Vs. Six | Lost Horse | Trad | 5.8 | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️ | 12/25 |
| H&R Block | Lost Horse | Trad | 5.6 | 1 | Onsight | Follow Onsight | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 12/25 |
| Pinched Rib | Chimney Rock | Trad | 5.10a | 1 | Lead Fell/Hung | Repeat Follow | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 12/25 |
| Pinched Rib | Chimney Rock | Trad | 5.10a | 1 | LRS | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 12/25 | |
| Raven’s Reach | Chimney Rock | Trad | 5.10a | 1 | Onsight | ⭐️⭐️ | 12/25 | |
| Ride A Wild Bago | Sports Challenge | Trad | 5.10a R | 1 | Lead Fell/Hung | Follow Fell/Hung | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 12/25 |
| Ride A Wild Bago | Sports Challenge | Trad | 5.10a R | 1 | Redpoint | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 12/25 | |
| Axe of Dog | Echo Cove | Trad | 5.10a | 1 | Redpoint | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 12/25 |
| Bonzo Dog Band | Echo Cove | Trad | 5.7 | 1 | Onsight | ⭐️ | 12/25 | |
| Jerry Brown | Brown Wall | Trad | 5.10b | Bail | 12/25 | |||
| Brownies in Motion | Brown Wall | Trad | 5.10b | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 12/25 |
| Captain Kronos | Brown Wall | Trad | 5.9 R | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 12/25 |
| Illusion Dweller | Sentinel West Face | Trad | 5.10b | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 12/25 |
| Butterfingers Make Me Horney | Thin Wall | Trad | 5.8 | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️ | 12/25 |
| Count On Your Fingers | Thin Wall | Trad | 5.9 | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 12/25 |
| Damper | Chimney Rock | Trad | 5.9 | 1 | Onsight | Follow Fell/Hung | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 12/25 |
| Looney Tunes | Rock Hudson | Trad | 5.9 | 1 | Follow Fell/Hung | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 12/25 |
| Good To The Last Drop | The Wall | Trad | 5.9 R | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 12/25 |
| Nereltne | Rock Hudson | Trad | 5.7 | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️ | 12/25 |
| Double Cross | Old Woman | Trad | 5.7 | 1 | Repeat Lead | Repeat Follow | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 12/25 |
| Beginner’s Three | Intersection Rock | Trad | 5.3 | 1 | Repeat Follow | Repeat Lead | ⭐️⭐️ | 12/25 |
| Dogleg | Old Woman | Trad | 5.8 | 1 | Repeat Lead | Repeat Follow | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 12/25 |
| Double Cross | Old Woman | Trad | 5.7 | 1 | Repeat Lead | Repeat Follow | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 11/25 |
| Overseer Direct | Hemingway | Trad | 5.10a R | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 11/25 |
| Pope’s Crack | Echo Cove | Trad | 5.9+ | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 11/25 |
| The Falcon and the Snowman | Echo Rock | Trad | 5.10c R | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 11/25 |
| Sound of One Shoe Tapping | Echo Cove | Trad | 5.8 R | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️ | 11/25 |
| Battle of Britain | Echo Cove | Trad | 5.10b | 1 | Onsight | Follow Fell/Hung | ⭐️⭐️ | 11/25 |
| W.A.C. | Echo Cove | Trad | 5.8 R | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️ | 11/25 |
| Jeepers Leepers | Jumbo | Trad | 5.9 R | 1 | Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 11/25 | |
| Stemski | Jumbo | Trad | 5.6 | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️ | 11/25 |
| Orange Flake (via Do Rein Me) | Saddle Rocks | Trad | 5.8 | 3 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 10/25 |
| Do Rein Me (into Orange Flake) | Saddle Rocks | Trad | 5.9 | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️ | 10/25 |
| Run For Your Life | Tumbling Rainbow | Trad | 5.10b R | 1 | Redpoint | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 10/25 |
| Run For Your Life | Tumbling Rainbow | Trad | 5.10b R | 1 | Lead Fell/Hung | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 10/25 | |
| Beginner’s Two | Blob | Trad | 5.5 | 1 | Onsight | Follow Onsight | ⭐️⭐️ | 10/25 |
| Stitcher Quits | Echo Rock | Trad | 5.7 R | 1 | Repeat Lead | Repeat Follow | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 10/25 |
| Stick to What | Echo Rock | Trad | 5.9 R | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 10/25 |
| Fote Hog | Sentinel East Face | Trad | 5.6 | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️ | 10/25 |
| Scoops | HVC | Boulder | V0- | 1 | Redpoint | Redpoint | ⭐️⭐️ | 10/25 |
| Strawberry Jam | Outhouse Rock | Trad | 5.9 | 1 | Redpoint | Follow Fell/Hung | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 10/25 |
| Hands Off | The Wall | Trad | 5.8 | 1 | Repeat Lead | Repeat Follow | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 10/25 |
| Mike’s Books | Intersection Rock | Trad | 5.6 | 2 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 10/25 |
| Lickety Splits | Hall of Horrors | Trad | 5.7 X | 1 | Repeat Lead | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 10/25 |
| Lickety Splits | Hall of Horrors | Trad | 5.7 X | 1 | LRS | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 10/25 | |
| Lickety Splits | Hall of Horrors | Trad | 5.7 X | 1 | TRS | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 10/25 | |
| Lickety Splits | Hall of Horrors | Trad | 5.7 X | 1 | TRS | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 10/25 | |
| Borat | Hall of Horrors | Trad | 5.9 | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️ | 10/25 |
| Zardoz | Hall of Horrors | Trad | 5.8 X | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️ | 10/25 |
| Prison for Czech Politicians | White Tank | Trad | 5.9 | 1 | Redpoint | ⭐️ | 10/25 | |
| Prison for Czech Politicians | White Tank | Trad | 5.9 | 1 | Lead Fell/Hung | Follow Flash | ⭐️ | 10/25 |
| Raid | White Tank | Trad | 5.9 | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️ | 10/25 |
| Excorcist | Hall of Horrors | Aid | 5.9 C1 | 1 | LRS Aid | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 10/25 | |
| Spider Line | Old Woman | Aid | C2 | 1 | LRS Aid | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 10/25 | |
| Thingamajig | Manx | Boulder | V0- | 1 | Redpoint | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 10/25 | |
| Leaping Leaner | Locomotion Rock | Trad | 5.9 | 1 | Repeat Lead | Repeat Follow | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 9/25 |
| Sail Away | Hidden Tower | Trad | 5.8 | 1 | Repeat Lead | Repeat Follow | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 9/25 |
| Straight Flush | Outhouse Rock | Trad | 5.8 | 1 | LRS | ⭐️⭐️ | 9/25 | |
| Straight Flush | Outhouse Rock | Trad | 5.8 | 1 | Lead Fell/Hung | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️ | 9/25 |
| Bumpy | Split Rocks | Trad | 5.8 | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️ | 9/25 |
| Boulevard Of Dreams | Saddle Rocks | Trad | 5.10a | 1 | Follow Fell/Hung | Redpoint | ⭐️⭐️ | 9/25 |
| Bird Of Fire | Saddle Rocks | Trad | 5.10a | 1 | Lead Fell/Hung | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 9/25 | |
| Mr. Misty Kiss | DQ Wall | Trad | 5.7 | 1 | Lead Fell/Hung | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️ | 9/25 |
| Mr. Misty Kiss | DQ Wall | Trad | 5.7 | 1 | Redpoint | ⭐️⭐️ | 9/25 | |
| Nuts and Cherries | DQ Wall | Trad | 5.6 | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️ | 9/25 |
| Strawberry Jam | Outhouse Rock | Trad | 5.9 | 1 | Lead Fell/Hung | Follow Fell/Hung | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 8/25 |
| Excorcist | Hall of Horrors | Trad | 5.10c | 1 | Lead Fell/Hung | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 8/25 | |
| Toe Jam | Old Woman | Trad | 5.7 | 1 | Repeat Lead | Repeat Follow | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 8/25 |
| The Flue | Chimney Rock | Trad | 5.8 | 1 | Repeat Lead | Repeat Follow | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 8/25 |
| Nurn’s Romp | Hall of Horrors | Trad | 5.8 | 1 | Repeat Lead | Repeat Follow | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 8/25 |
| Overseer | Hemingway | Trad | 5.9 | 1 | Onsight | Follow Fell/Hung | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 3/24 |
| Pinched Rib | Chimney Rock | Trad | 5.10a | 1 | Redpoint | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 2/24 |
| Looney Tunes | Rock Hudson | Trad | 5.9 | 1 | Onsight | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 2/24 | |
| Double Cross | Old Woman | Trad | 5.7 | Repeat Lead | Repeat Follow | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 | |
| Stitcher Quits | Echo Rock | Trad | 5.7 R | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 |
| Lickety Splits | Hall of Horrors | Trad | 5.7 X | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 |
| Sail Away | Hidden Tower | Trad | 5.8 | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 |
| Toe Jam | Old Woman | Trad | 5.7 | 1 | Repeat Follow | Repeat Lead | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 |
| Nurn’s Romp | Hall of Horrors | Trad | 5.8 | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 |
| Heart and Sole | Echo Rock | Trad | 5.10a PG13 | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 |
| Penny Lane | Echo Rock | Trad | 5.8 | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 |
| Norm | DQ Wall | Trad | 5.10a | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 |
| Leap Year Flake | DQ Wall | Trad | 5.7 | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 |
| Prepackaged | Hemingway | Trad | 5.10a | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 |
| Damn Jam | The Wall | Trad | 5.6 | 1 | Onsight | ⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 | |
| Quick Draw McGraw | Echo Rock | Trad | 5.10a R | 1 | Redpoint | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 |
| RAF | Echo Cove | Trad | 5.8 R | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 |
| Swing Low | Echo Cove | Trad | 5.8 | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 |
| Papa Woolsey | Echo Cove | Trad | 5.10b | 1 | Onsight | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 | |
| Pumping Ego | The Wall | Trad | 5.10b R | 1 | Redpoint | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 | |
| Dirty Dancing | Chimney Rock | Trad | 5.10a | 1 | Onsight | ⭐️ | 1/25 | |
| No Calculators Allowed | Thin Wall | Trad | 5.10a | 1 | Onsight | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 | |
| White Lightning | Hemingway | Trad | 5.7 | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 |
| Dial 911 | Saddle Rocks | Trad | 5.10a R | 2 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 |
| Chalk Up Another One | The Wall | Trad | 5.10a | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 |
| Catch A Falling Star | Cap Rock | Trad | 5.8 | 1 | Repeat Follow | Redpoint | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 |
| Ball Bearing (first pitch only) | Sentinel East Face | Trad | 5.9 | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 |
| Almost Vertical | Thin Wall | Trad | 5.7 | 1 | Follow Flash | Onsight | ⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 |
| Dandelion | Old Woman | Trad | 5.10a | 1 | Redpoint | Follow Fell/Hung | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 |
| Dandelion | Old Woman | Trad | 5.10a | 1 | Lead Fell/Hung | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 | |
| Bacon Flake | Echo Cove | Trad | 5.8 R | 1 | Onsight | Follow Fell/Hung | ⭐️ | 1/25 |
| Touch and Go | Echo Cove | Trad | 5.9 | 1 | Onsight | Follow Fell/Hung | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 |
| Double Dip | Echo Cove | Trad | 5.6 | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 |
| Mama Woolsey | The Blob | Trad | 5.10a R | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 |
| Buissonier | The Blob | Trad | 5.7 | 1 | Repeat Follow | Redpoint | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 |
| Sexy Grandma | Old Woman | Trad | 5.9 | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 |
| Spaghetti & Chili | Cyclops Rock | Trad | 5.7 | 1 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 |
| West Face Overhang | Chimney Rock | Trad | 5.7 | 2 | Onsight | Follow Flash | ⭐️⭐️ | 1/25 |
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DISCLAIMER
Ski mountaineering, rock climbing, ice climbing and all other forms of mountain recreation are inherently dangerous. Should you decide to attempt anything you read about in this article, you are doing so at your own risk! This article is written to the best possible level of accuracy and detail, but I am only human – information could be presented wrong. Furthermore, conditions in the mountains are subject to change at any time. Ten Thousand Too Far and Brandon Wanthal are not liable for any actions or repercussions acted upon or suffered from the result of this article’s reading.
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