High Fidelity is a classic early season multi-pitch ice and mixed adventure in Hyalite Canyon, understated at the WI3+, M4 grade. Our thin conditions produced a climb closer to WI4, M5+. I was joined by the Alpine Peanut herself, a proud effort for her third day ever ice climbing. Winter is here!!
I swung tools this November 9th in Teton Canyon, but only on a short 40 foot nugget of WI3+ in the deep shady annals of the South Fork. Hayden Evans and I top roped The Birds four times a piece before heading home, but I was hesitant to announce the commencement of ice season. Eight days later Bobbi and I brought in the winter climbing season with a bang. High Fidelity is a classic early season outing in the East Fork of Hyalite Canyon, featuring about 200 meters of quality ice and mixed climbing dispersed amongst 4-5 pitches. The route provides an an authentic alpine feel, ascending an ominous slot feature that gradually opens to a broad drainage with several relatively short steps of steep terrain. Despite the given grade of WI3+, M4, full ice formation is unreliable and therefore a tremendous variance in difficulty will be experienced. This year there was just enough ice to make the first three pitches reasonable, but the last pitch – an eight meter vertical pillar pouring out of a chimney – was entirely missing, requiring committing M5 or M6-ish climbing with a particularly bold overhanging sequence to gain a thin 10cm glaze over the lip, all with truly desperate “mental pro”. A pink tricam in a half iced crack, an upward driven knifeblade in frozen mud and a 7cm Camp USA stubby placed overhead in a shoebox sized blob were the only pieces between me and the ground as I pulled some of the more physical and awkward dry moves of my life. Fortunately I’ve been logging ample mileage at the local drytool cliff this offseason. The Peanut put forth a truly inspirational effort, freeing the first WI2+, M3 pitch and requiring a hang or two on each of the following pitches, candled WI4 and WI4, M4 respectively. Despite initial gripes I encouraged her to hangdog through the chimney on the last pitch to experience the glorious feeling of pulling onto a bomber ice sheet after thrashing up a mess of insecure mud cobbles. Could you imagine trying to climb overhanging M5+ for your first time ever drytooling? Or climbing an anemic WI4 pillar for your third day on ice? I can’t… really… at all – and she did it all with a smile as wide as the Hyalite skyline. Why Bobbi didn’t jump on the ice train when she first tried it two years ago is still a mystery, but save to say all this frozen foolery more fun when you’re more fit and equipped with a robust climbing skillset. All I know is I couldn’t be happier to have my best friend along for the ride.
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We descended High Fidelity with a single 70M rope, requiring one non-AMGA approved 16cm V-thread halfway down pitch three and a smidge of very easy mixed down-climbing at the beginning of the first pitch. Next time I would probably bring two ropes. A rack of six screws, six cams #0.4 to #3, a slim selection of passive protection and the obligatory three or four emergency pitons served us well. All in all, High Fidelity proved a quirky, stimulating and perfectly challenging adventure with a digestible doses of many winter climbing styles. At a very relaxed pace we climbed and descended the route in six hours. The approach and exit, also on the casual program, took 45 minutes each.
Approach Notes
To get to High Fidelity use the standard approach for Comet Alley, crossing the river on a sturdy single log bridge within 100 yards of leaving the East Fork Trailhead. Ascend the steep forest with deadfall to the first prominent cliff band. Traverse climber’s left to Comet Alley, the first prominent drainage/creek running with water. Ascend creek on climber’s left and until almost entering the rocky confines of Comet Alley. Traverse climber’s left on a steep treed bench to the next adjacent drainage. Within five minutes a tight dooming alpine slot feature with large walls marks the start of High Fidelity. Budget 30-60 minutes for approach.
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DISCLAIMER
Ski mountaineering, rock climbing, ice climbing and all other forms of mountain recreation are inherently dangerous. Should you decide to attempt anything you read about in this article, you are doing so at your own risk! This article is written to the best possible level of accuracy and detail, but I am only human – information could be presented wrong. Furthermore, conditions in the mountains are subject to change at any time. Ten Thousand Too Far and Brandon Wanthal are not liable for any actions or repercussions acted upon or suffered from the result of this article’s reading.
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