In 2015, David Gonzales wrote a popular article for POWDER Magazine titled "Is There A Better Way to Ski the Grand Teton?" - in which he discusses the perilous and increasingly pressing issue of congestion on the Grand Teton's most popular ski route, the Ford-Stettner. This article will double down on Gonzales's work, putting a... Continue Reading →
On March 30th, 2022 I completed my first solo climb and ski descent of the Grand Teton, with ropes used for rappel. I used the traditional Stettner & Chevy Couloirs (WI2+, steep snow) for ascent, but climbed a new (to me) variation of the Ford Couloir - the "Workman-Starr Sneak" - to access the summit... Continue Reading →
The North Face of the Middle Teton holds two classic alpine routes in a commanding setting, the North Ridge (5.6, rock) and the Northwest Ice Couloir (5.6, AI2, steep snow). The two can be linked together to form a fusion technical mountaineering route popular with winter climbers. The East Face is one of the Fifty... Continue Reading →
The Ford-Stettner route on the Grand Teton is arguably the range's most classic and sought ski mountaineering descent. On January 19th, 2022, I completed my second successful climb and ski descent of the Ford-Stettner, this time with a brand new partner. In classic Grand Teton fashion we battled copious unknowns, learned many lessons and returned... Continue Reading →
The Southeast Couloir of Teewinot Mountain is an often overlooked alternative to the highly sought East Face route. Topping out at 11,600 feet on the southernmost shoulder, the 600 foot couloir starts narrow, finishes wide and maintains a steady slope angle in the mid-forty degree* range. Despite impressive views of the Grand Teton and a... Continue Reading →
The Moonwalk Couloir is located on the west-north-west side of 25 Short (USGS Peak 9975') in Grand Teton National Park - a more committing and exciting alternative to the commonly skied Chute the Moon and Turkey Chute Couloirs. The line rarely (if ever) fills in from the top, requiring a mild but exposed down-climb that... Continue Reading →
On a bitterly cold March 2019 morning, John Walker and I set off to attempt the "Nez Perce Trifecta" - skiing the Sliver, East Hourglass and West Hourglass Couloirs in a single push - a Teton ski mountaineering classic. We didn't quite hit the mark. High winds, deep snow and sub-zero temperatures pushed us towards... Continue Reading →
The East Face of Teewinot Mountain is the deadliest route in Grand Teton National Park. But why? After my third lap on the 12,326 foot beauty, I believe I have a good idea. This article doubles as both a trip report and a discussion of "mountaineering in the information era" - a.k.a. 2021
In the last week of July 2021, I completed a bucket list free-solo ascent of the ultra-classic Exum Ridge route on Wyoming's second tallest peak, the Grand Teton.
In September of 2018, I completed my first climb and free-solo of the Grand Teton via the Owen-Spalding Route. Here's the story of what at the time was my most monumental and perspective shifting experience in these great mountains.
Ten Thousand Too Far 