The Bee's Knees is a newly developed four pitch route on the shady north wall of Prospectors Mountain, a worthy addition to an area flooded with classics.
Just Plain Fun – The Bee’s Knees (5.9, II) – Prospectors Mountain – GTNP, WY (06.25.23)
A Closer Look: Reducing Congestion on the Grand Teton’s Most Popular Ski Route [opinions]
In 2015, David Gonzales wrote a popular article for POWDER Magazine titled "Is There A Better Way to Ski the Grand Teton?" in which he discusses the perilous and increasingly pressing issue of congestion on the Grand's most popular ski route, the Ford-Stettner. This article will double down on Gonzales's work, putting a microscope to the Workman-Starr Sneak and its potential to reduce overhead hazard when multiple climbers/skiers are on the mountain.
First Winter Grand Teton Solo – East Face/Starr-Workman Variation, Ski Descent – Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY (03.30.22)
On March 30th, 2022 I completed my first solo climb and ski descent of the Grand Teton, with ropes used for rappel. I used the traditional Stettner & Chevy Couloirs (WI2+, steep snow) for ascent, but climbed a new (to me) variation of the Ford Couloir - the "Workman-Starr Sneak" - to access the summit... Continue Reading →
Quality Quarantine – Middle Teton – North Ridge & NW Ice Couloir (5.6, AI2), East Face Ski Descent – Grand Teton N.P. (1.30.22)
The North Face of the Middle Teton holds two classic alpine routes in a commanding setting, the North Ridge (5.6, rock) and the Northwest Ice Couloir (5.6, AI2, steep snow). The two can be linked together to form a fusion technical mountaineering route popular with winter climbers. The East Face is one of the Fifty... Continue Reading →
January on the Grand – Ford-Stettner Couloir, Grand Teton – GTNP, WY (01.19.22)
The Ford-Stettner route on the Grand Teton is arguably the range's most classic and sought ski mountaineering descent. On January 19th, 2022, I completed my second successful climb and ski descent of the Ford-Stettner, this time with a brand new partner. In classic Grand Teton fashion we battled copious unknowns, learned many lessons and returned... Continue Reading →
Teewinot Mountain – Southeast Couloir – A Slushy Summer Mess, and A Near Fatal Miss – Grand Teton N.P. (May 2019)
The Southeast Couloir of Teewinot Mountain is an often overlooked alternative to the highly sought East Face route. Topping out at 11,600 feet on the southernmost shoulder, the 600 foot couloir starts narrow, finishes wide and maintains a steady slope angle in the mid-forty degree* range. Despite impressive views of the Grand Teton and a... Continue Reading →
The Moonwalk Couloir (TR, Jan. 2018), and Other West Face Lines – Peak 25 Short – Grand Teton N.P.
The Moonwalk Couloir is located on the west-north-west side of 25 Short (USGS Peak 9975') in Grand Teton National Park - a more committing and exciting alternative to the commonly skied Chute the Moon and Turkey Chute Couloirs. The line rarely (if ever) fills in from the top, requiring a mild but exposed down-climb that... Continue Reading →
Knee Deep on Nez Perce – The Sliver and East Hourglass Couloirs (Mar. 2019)
On a bitterly cold March 2019 morning, John Walker and I set off to attempt the "Nez Perce Trifecta" - skiing the Sliver, East Hourglass and West Hourglass Couloirs in a single push - a Teton ski mountaineering classic. We didn't quite hit the mark. High winds, deep snow and sub-zero temperatures pushed us towards... Continue Reading →
The Deadliest Route in the Tetons – East Face of Teewinot Mountain – Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY (08.2021)
The East Face of Teewinot Mountain is the deadliest route in Grand Teton National Park. But why? After my third lap on the 12,326 foot beauty, I believe I have a good idea. This article doubles as both a trip report and a discussion of "mountaineering in the information era" - a.k.a. 2021
Undeniably Airy – A Free Solo Ascent of The Grand Teton’s Exum Ridge – Grand Teton N.P. (07.30.21)
In the last week of July 2021, I completed a bucket list free-solo ascent of the ultra-classic Exum Ridge route on Wyoming's second tallest peak, the Grand Teton.
Ten Thousand Too Far 