Rock Climbing – Ice Climbing – Ski Mountaineering
The Red Sentinel Couloir has become somewhat of a Teton "trade route" the past few seasons. Why has it taken me six winters to ski this iconic line? Probably the same reason I haven't skied the Apocalypse Couloir - WHO KNOWS! On March 12th, 2022 I finally tagged the beast, scoring 100% fresh tracks in... Continue Reading →
The Sentinel Ice Couloir is a two... or three... or four pitch moderate ice climb on the southern aspect of Albright Peak (north side of Death Canyon). While hardly a classic, this quirky route provides an alpine style climb in a very dramatic setting, and probably the easiest accessed pitch of grade four water ice in Grand Teton National Park. Despite the Tetons receiving a walloping of snow the past week, Connor James and I set out determined to make this long planned mission happen, no matter the powder that stood in our way.
It's approaching spring climbing road trip season! Around this time last year (2021) I took off to Bishop California for three weeks of bouldering, and despite breaking my wrist on day four learned a tremendous amount about the Bishop bouldering scene, especially as it pertains to beginners. I climbed at the Buttermilks as well as the Volcanic Tablelands, and this article will focus `on both areas from the perspective of a V2-V3 outdoor boulderer.
The Eddington Chutes on Treasure Mountain are home to possibly the best fall line skiing on the west slope of the Tetons. After a rapid pulse of snow following 5-6 weeks of high pressure, Reed Finlay and I sought sheltered powder and thought this to be the place. Though phenomenal conditions were found up high,... Continue Reading →
After belaying Brian Emory on his first coveted red-point of "The Thrill" just seven days before, I returned with Scott Melin to attempt an "on-sight" lead. We climbed for two days at the Unnamed Wall and Mummy Cooler Areas, ticking ascents on Mummy II, The Matrix, Feeding The Cat, The Fat One and of course, The Thrill Is Gone. A full conditions report and photos are included.
The "Bowling Alley" is a 2,600 foot technical ski descent on the north aspect of Teton Canyon's Treasure Mountain. After a month of minimal snow I hoped this funky, elusive and likewise rarely descended line could be hiding some of the last untouched powder on the west slope of the Tetons. I scored, but not without significant tax.
Breaking news: Our Teton snowpack has achieved "grim" status - but luckily it's remained damn cold. Instead of futzing around on skis, Brian Emory and I took off to Bozeman for some mid-week ice climbing. I managed to lead & flash two WI-4's, my first at the grade, and Brian sent his long time project, The Thrill Is Gone (M4, WI-4). Read on for a few anecdotes and a conditions report in the Genesis and Unnamed Wall areas.
The Symmetry Couloir, as defined in Connor Miller's Black Book, is the large avalanche path directly south of Symmetry Spire, north of Storm Point, on the opposite shore of Jenny Lake. On February 6th, after almost a month of minimal to no snow, Chase Krumholz and I set off for this obscure line in hopes of harvesting untracked turns.
Leeks Peak (USGS Peak 10,333') is the first highpoint on the south side of Colter Canyon in Grand Teton National Park. A long approach across Jackson Lake and a lack of prominent striking terrain steers most day trippers away, but when the snow in the core range is tracked to hell, peaks like Leeks begin to make more sense. In exchange for eight hours of time, our crew of three scored a phenomenal 3,500 foot powder run I look forward to skiing again, and valuable insight to a new area of GTNP with infinite steep descent potential.
The North Face of the Middle Teton holds two classic alpine routes in a commanding setting, the North Ridge (5.6, rock) and the Northwest Ice Couloir (5.6, AI2, steep snow). The two can be linked together to form a fusion technical mountaineering route popular with winter climbers. The East Face is one of the Fifty... Continue Reading →
Ten Thousand Too Far 