Rock Climbing – Ice Climbing – Ski Mountaineering
The "Bowling Alley" is a 2,600 foot technical ski descent on the north aspect of Teton Canyon's Treasure Mountain. After a month of minimal snow I hoped this funky, elusive and likewise rarely descended line could be hiding some of the last untouched powder on the west slope of the Tetons. I scored, but not without significant tax.
Breaking news: Our Teton snowpack has achieved "grim" status - but luckily it's remained damn cold. Instead of futzing around on skis, Brian Emory and I took off to Bozeman for some mid-week ice climbing. I managed to lead & flash two WI-4's, my first at the grade, and Brian sent his long time project, The Thrill Is Gone (M4, WI-4). Read on for a few anecdotes and a conditions report in the Genesis and Unnamed Wall areas.
The Symmetry Couloir, as defined in Connor Miller's Black Book, is the large avalanche path directly south of Symmetry Spire, north of Storm Point, on the opposite shore of Jenny Lake. On February 6th, after almost a month of minimal to no snow, Chase Krumholz and I set off for this obscure line in hopes of harvesting untracked turns.
Leeks Peak (USGS Peak 10,333') is the first highpoint on the south side of Colter Canyon in Grand Teton National Park. A long approach across Jackson Lake and a lack of prominent striking terrain steers most day trippers away, but when the snow in the core range is tracked to hell, peaks like Leeks begin to make more sense. In exchange for eight hours of time, our crew of three scored a phenomenal 3,500 foot powder run I look forward to skiing again, and valuable insight to a new area of GTNP with infinite steep descent potential.
The North Face of the Middle Teton holds two classic alpine routes in a commanding setting, the North Ridge (5.6, rock) and the Northwest Ice Couloir (5.6, AI2, steep snow). The two can be linked together to form a fusion technical mountaineering route popular with winter climbers. The East Face is one of the Fifty... Continue Reading →
Veiled Peak is the most remote and least traveled 11,000 foot peak in the core Teton Range. Tucked far behind Mount Wister and standing at 11,315 feet, Veiled offers a rugged adventure to skiers and alpinists with an apt for big miles. The North Ridge is a technical scrambling alternative to the intricate and intimidating... Continue Reading →
The Ford-Stettner route on the Grand Teton is arguably the range's most classic and sought ski mountaineering descent. On January 19th, 2022, I completed my second successful climb and ski descent of the Ford-Stettner, this time with a brand new partner. In classic Grand Teton fashion we battled copious unknowns, learned many lessons and returned... Continue Reading →
The Crooked Thumb Couloir is the prominent avalanche path directly north of Teewinot Mountain's classic East Face line. The couloir tops out at 11,600 feet on the mountain's north ridge, and despite looking benign from below, drops over 2,500 vertical feet with several tight sections of 40+ degree fall line skiing. The three prominent ski... Continue Reading →
On December 27th 2021, I remotely triggered an avalanche of serious destructive magnitude while traversing a north-to-south ridgeline, at approximately 9,600 feet in the west Teton backcountry, on skis. The deep persistent slab avalanche broke with a 6-10 foot crown, ran 1,400 feet, uprooted many trees and failed on the "December 5th weak layer". Read... Continue Reading →
First and foremost, it is with a heavy heart that I solemnly offer my condolences to the family of Matthew Brien, a 33 year old Jackson local taken by the mountains far too early. 2021 was undoubtedly one of the toughest years for snow stability in the mountain west. February was the worst - haunted... Continue Reading →
Ten Thousand Too Far 