Rock Climbing – Ice Climbing – Ski Mountaineering
The Lake Louise Ice Gully is a 3-4 pitch alpine ice climb situated stunningly above Lake Louise on the eastern flank of Wyoming's Wind River Range, easily accessed from the small town of Dubois. The very wide flow is considered classic for the area and has many variations, ranging from rambling WI3 to firm WI4,... Continue Reading →
On March 30th, 2022 I completed my first solo climb and ski descent of the Grand Teton, with ropes used for rappel. I used the traditional Stettner & Chevy Couloirs (WI2+, steep snow) for ascent, but climbed a new (to me) variation of the Ford Couloir - the "Workman-Starr Sneak" - to access the summit... Continue Reading →
The "Banana Couloir" is more of a massive gully than a true couloir, providing 3,300 feet of moderate fall-line skiing on the most commanding east face of the southern Tetons. Beginning at roughly 11,000 feet, "the Banana" maintains an average slope angle above 30 degrees for over one whole skiable mile (take a second to... Continue Reading →
Eagles Rest Glacier? Waterfalls Glacier? I'm not sure how this thing doesn't have a name, but someone should call USGS and tell them there's a huge glacier separating the twin summits of Eagles Rest Peak, deep in the confines of Waterfalls Canyon, needing a title. Either way, first time partner Nick LaToof and I skied... Continue Reading →
According to the late great Steve Romeo, acclaimed Teton ski mountaineer and founder of TetonAT.com, "The Ellingwood Couloir on the Middle Teton is one of the most classic steep descents in the Teton Range", and if Romeo deems it a classic, I'll give it my humble blessing too. The Ellingwood is one of the very,... Continue Reading →
The Red Sentinel Couloir has become somewhat of a Teton "trade route" the past few seasons. Why has it taken me six winters to ski this iconic line? Probably the same reason I haven't skied the Apocalypse Couloir - WHO KNOWS! On March 12th, 2022 I finally tagged the beast, scoring 100% fresh tracks in... Continue Reading →
The Sentinel Ice Couloir is a two... or three... or four pitch moderate ice climb on the southern aspect of Albright Peak (north side of Death Canyon). While hardly a classic, this quirky route provides an alpine style climb in a very dramatic setting, and probably the easiest accessed pitch of grade four water ice in Grand Teton National Park. Despite the Tetons receiving a walloping of snow the past week, Connor James and I set out determined to make this long planned mission happen, no matter the powder that stood in our way.
It's approaching spring climbing road trip season! Around this time last year (2021) I took off to Bishop California for three weeks of bouldering, and despite breaking my wrist on day four learned a tremendous amount about the Bishop bouldering scene, especially as it pertains to beginners. I climbed at the Buttermilks as well as the Volcanic Tablelands, and this article will focus `on both areas from the perspective of a V2-V3 outdoor boulderer.
The Eddington Chutes on Treasure Mountain are home to possibly the best fall line skiing on the west slope of the Tetons. After a rapid pulse of snow following 5-6 weeks of high pressure, Reed Finlay and I sought sheltered powder and thought this to be the place. Though phenomenal conditions were found up high,... Continue Reading →
After belaying Brian Emory on his first coveted red-point of "The Thrill" just seven days before, I returned with Scott Melin to attempt an "on-sight" lead. We climbed for two days at the Unnamed Wall and Mummy Cooler Areas, ticking ascents on Mummy II, The Matrix, Feeding The Cat, The Fat One and of course, The Thrill Is Gone. A full conditions report and photos are included.
Ten Thousand Too Far 