Surf’s up in Teton Canyon. On December 14th I climbed Landslide (WI4, II) with Bobbi Clemmer and Brian Emory. Alongside this very short trip report is a full ice report from the canyon, where most routes are in good shape.
After many weeks of holiday festivities, hectic work schedules, subtle sickness and mid-week drytooling sessions I finally snuck out with Bobbi and Brian for a full day of icicle bashing in Teton Canyon. After receiving two reports that Landslide was “in but thin”, we pointed our sails. On the right day Landslide is undoubtedly king of the south facing flows. However, because the climb fed by a perennial stream with significant sun exposure, it is highly responsive to weather. Only a few bitterly cold and overcast days are needed to bring Landslide into condition early season. Likewise, only one unseasonably warm afternoon is needed to turn Landslide into a complimentary shower. In the doldrums of winter the climb becomes enigmatic, shape shifting by the week. Route grades can range from a technical low-angle mixed first pitch with a featured WI4+ second pitch pillar, to a buffed out homogeneous ramble with a few steep moves to cap pitch two. For those who haven’t heard of, or are interested in climbing, Landslide, I have added a thorough description to Mountain Project.
We found the route in just about prefect early season conditions. The left variation to pitch one was a sinewy WI2 ramble with a short, thin, vertical step at its head. Abundant fresh ice made us work for solid sticks, but also provided a well bonded and tactile interface beneficial to shallow ice and short screws. The pillar was multi-faceted, with distinctly different character between the left and right sides. The left climbed easiest, was the first preference of our party, and also was the visible choice of previous traffic. The cauliflower, candle and cavernous features characteristic of Landslide’s perennial stream source provided captivating and challenging climbing at the grade, albeit short lived. Brian and I took turns leading, while Bobbi scored yet another commendable WI4 follow without weighting the rope. With a few minutes to spare I pulled the rope and led the right side, which proved a bit more difficult to climb, and significantly harder to protect – two delicate columns prone to fracture that beckoned a gentle touch. We coiled ropes, slipped down the descent gullies, ate Wydaho Roasters pastries by the handful and skated back to the parking lot by the eight hour mark – another day of memorable Teton Canyon ice in the books.
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Teton Canyon Conditions Report (As of December 14th, 2024)
Here’s a route by route conditions report for all Teton Canyon ice climbs as of December 14th, 2024. Some pictures are included below.
South Side Climbs (north facing)
- Eagle Scout (WI5) and adjacent mixed climbs
- Generously formed and reported consistent, if not easy, for the grade. Has seen multiple ascents. Viable ice is present on Wuhan Wet Market and Blue Smoker. See picture below.
- Boy Scout Falls (WI3, II)
- Thin but in. Full ice conditions. Has seen at least one ascent. See picture below.
- Reunion Falls (WI3-4)
Close. Maybe. See picture below.
- Right Ghost (WI5)
- Touching but reported wet and hollow. No known ascents. See previous ice report for pictures.
- Left Ghost (WI4)
- Good condition. Has seen multiple ascents. See previous ice report for pictures.
- The Birds (WI3)
- In thin but climbable condition as of November 21st. See previous ice report for pictures. No known ascents since road closure.
North Side Climbs (south facing)
- Lehman’s Lament (WI3)
- Some ice. Not fully formed but potentially climbable. No known ascents. See picture below.
- Green Pea (WI3/4)
- Has been top-roped. Thin for leading. Behind schedule. See picture below.
- Landslide (WI4, II)
- Thin but good condition. See trip report and photos above.
📸 : Liam Wylie
📸 : Liam Wylie
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DISCLAIMER
Ski mountaineering, rock climbing, ice climbing and all other forms of mountain recreation are inherently dangerous. Should you decide to attempt anything you read about in this article, you are doing so at your own risk! This article is written to the best possible level of accuracy and detail, but I am only human – information could be presented wrong. Furthermore, conditions in the mountains are subject to change at any time. Ten Thousand Too Far and Brandon Wanthal are not liable for any actions or repercussions acted upon or suffered from the result of this article’s reading.
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