Escape From Death is a worthy five pitch outing on Cathedral Rock in Death Canyon, with an absolutely excellent crux pitch, on surprisingly great stone.
Escape From Death (ESD) was the first climb established on the westernmost buttress of Cathedral Rock’s storied south face. The route was envisioned and sent by Rick Reese, Ted Wilson and Mike Ermarth in 1967, and was probably one of the hardest routes in the range at the time. In classic pre-1980’s “5.9” fashion I found the crux pitch at least 5.10-, with significantly overhanging climbing reminiscent of the crux roof pitch on the Snaz, except a little more crack oriented. The Ortenburger-Jackson bible lists ESD as “an enjoyable one day climb on good rock with good protection”, and I concur, despite the especially unsavory and foreboding description set forth on Mountain Project – I wonder if the author could’ve been off route. Anyone avoiding this climb at the hands of Mountain Project should forgo their trepidation. With a few more ascents to polish off what little grime adorns the middle pitches, Escape From Death has potential to be as good as other second tier Death Canyon classic like Annals Of Time or Cardiac Aretes – honestly, it’s already in the ballpark.
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The route begins one tier below and just east of Aerial Boundaries, in an unattractive low angle groove-chimney spiked with two trees. The first lead climbs the weakness to the next flat bench, through a crux three meter squeeze at the first pine. Though only rated 5.6, the Jungle Squeeze is blue collar work, and Will Rack, my partner du’ jour, showed tremendous fortitude muscling his way through this surprisingly awkward, unpleasant and physical gatekeeper pitch. I felt especially bad for audibly laughing at him on lead when I got punished in this vegetated beast wearing the summit pack, which I ultimately needed to throw over the top to get my off-width on. We both reached the next belay smelling like Christmas. After returning from a successful climb I investigated the finger crack five meters east of this pitch as a potential alternative to the Jungle Squeeze, but found the climbing too difficult. There is now a fixed nut at the first crux 10 meters off the ground. If this pitch ends up going free it would be a perfect circumnavigation, though I bet it won’t come easier than 5.11.
Pitches two, three and four all followed the path of least resistance through the tiered cliffs defending the distinct pitch five crux crack. Pitches two and three can be linked with 50 meter ropes and minimal protection placed on pitch two, which is wandery and low-fifth class. Pitch three was the first to engage the sending gears, with some technical 5.8 edging and ledge fall potential right off the deck, followed by consistently interesting slabs and cracks. Pitch four took a pleasant low-angle 5.5 corner to a fixed belay before and west of the crux pitch.
The final lead was magnitudes more burly than expected from below, but protected excellent. An initial crux pulling through a grainy layback flake right off the belay relented to pleasant crack climbing and a no hands chimney rest before the final overhanging wide crack. I’ve managed to find myself in too many steep wide cracks lately, and it was all I could do not to shake my head as I unclipped my helmet for some off-width-ing and committed to the tango. This was perhaps the steepest crack I’ve climbed this year, and I impressed myself by connecting a fluid hand jam sequence directly into some unruly face climbing high above a pair of three and four inch cams. A final heart pumping layback saw me to a large ledge and ultimately routine finishing fare. Yet another forgotten Death Canyon gem unearthed – I feel like I’ve had some luck this year.
Route Reflection, Rack & Possible Link-Ups
All in all Escape From Death deserves more notoriety. The crux pitch is right up there with the best 5.9/5.10- in Death Canyon, and the entry faire is mostly pleasant (save for the Jungle Squeeze) on quality rock. We brought a single rack of cams from fingers to five inches with doubles in the hand sizes and a full set of stoppers. This rack suited us well, and though the #5 did protect the first crux of pitch five perfectly, one could certainly manage without it. However, a #4 is highly recommended for the final crux. Ultimately, I’d probably bring the same rack for another ascent. We completed this route in an extremely casual nine hours car-to-car.
The final note from this recommended climb is the potential for linkups with other routes on the Aerial Boundaries buttress. As you can see in the topo, many fusion routes are possible, as well as opportunities for more climbing above pitch five. The final pitch of the FNG Variation to Aerial Boundaries would be the most logical extension, however, the last two pitches of the original Aerial Boundaries are located just a little ways west along the descent ramp as well. Overall this is a very appealing zone for parties interested in alpine cragging.
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DISCLAIMER
Ski mountaineering, rock climbing, ice climbing and all other forms of mountain recreation are inherently dangerous. Should you decide to attempt anything you read about in this article, you are doing so at your own risk! This article is written to the best possible level of accuracy and detail, but I am only human – information could be presented wrong. Furthermore, conditions in the mountains are subject to change at any time. Ten Thousand Too Far and Brandon Wanthal are not liable for any actions or repercussions acted upon or suffered from the result of this article’s reading.
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