On Saturday I enjoyed a Garnet Canyon/Glacial Gulch link-up, skiing the Dike Snowfield to Teton Glacier, climbing to the Tallboy Col and eventually skiing the rarely descended SE face of Peak 11,751 (East summit of the East Prong). Both descents were personal firsts, a great day in the hills.
Are You Ready? – 2018 Stoke From The Spoon Couloir – Disappointment Peak, Grand Teton Nat. Park (Feb. 2018)
As the 2022/23 winter is slow to ramp up, and I'm still spending time digesting my Thanksgiving meal with family, I figured I would add this short bight from what was perhaps my first "real" Teton ski mountaineering descent - the famed Spoon Couloir on Disappointment Peak - circa 2018. Are you ready? (trip report... Continue Reading →
[NEW] Chouinard-Frost Chimney (5.9+, IV) Topo – Disappointment Peak, North Face, Grand Teton Nat. Park (2022)
An updated and thorough topo of the Chouinard-Frost Chimney on the north face of Disappointment Peak in Grand Teton National Park.
Death Canyon Early Season Ice Report, Grand Teton National Park (11.10.22)
A first for Ten Thousand Too Far, this is not a trip report - but a simple conditions report on the main ice climbs at the mouth of Death Canyon in Grand Teton National Park, after a futile ice trip on November 10th, 2022.
A Seven Pitch Jenny Lake Link-Up – Seizure Disorder, Direct South Ridge (Baxter’s Pinnacle, 5.10) and No Perches Necessary (5.9R) – Grand Teton Nat. Park (10.20.22)
Seizure Disorder is a single pitch 5.10- variation to the original South Ridge (5.9, II, 5 pitches) route on Baxter's Pinnacle. No Perches Necessary is a short but worthy two pitch affair at the mouth of Cascade Canyon, featuring a stellar and sustained 5.9 fist crack, and a bold 5.8R runout slab pitch. On October 20th, 2022 Jordan Creech and I linked the two routes for one seven pitch day of excellent lowland climbing in the Tetons.
Almost, But Not Really, Classic – Peaches (5.8, II) – Stuart Draw, Grand Teton National Park (10.14.22)
Peaches is an adventurous four pitch, grade two, 5.8 rock climb established by Yvon Chouinard and Kathryn Collins in 1980, and has seen few repeats since. Though only graded 5.8, if twenty foot runouts above small brass nuts puts bees in your bonnet, this might not be the climb for you.
Birthday Sends on Baxter’s Pinnacle 🎂 – South Ridge (5.9+, II) – Grand Teton N.P. (10.05.22)
October 5th was Bobbi Clemmer's birthday, and to celebrate we repeated one of our favorite lowland multi-pitch climbs in Grand Teton National Park, the South Ridge of Baxter's Pinnacle. Bobbi earned her trad stripes on this classic 4-5 pitch route, leading all but the final 5.9 crux pitch. Having only climbed two years, the birthday girl has come quite some way.
Ice Cream Cone Topo – West Crack (5.7) – Grand Teton Nat. Park (2022)
The west crack of the "Ice Cream Cone" (USGS ~12,405) in Grand Teton National Park is the most popular route of ascent for southbound Grand Traverse parties. To my knowledge there is no existing topo for this route on the internet. This "post" is nothing more than a photo and route description for future parties. Bobbi Clemmer and I climbed this route as part of a longer traverse on August 21st, 2022.
You Belong – North Ridge (5.9/5.8, IV) – Mount Owen, Grand Teton Nat. Park (08.29.22)
Mount Owen's North Ridge is one of the longest, most aesthetic, yet equally demanding mountaineering routes in Grand Teton National Park, tucked away on the western flanks of the seldom traveled Owen-Teewinot Cirque. The route encompasses over 6,000 feet of elevation gain, half of which is considered "technical" - 4th class and above - and 13 or more roped pitches up to 5.9 - often rife with steep snow. A brutal approach involving dicy creek crossings, hours of dense bushwhacking and vast, obscure, occasionally loose, big mountain terrain solidify this full spectrum, undeniably classic, Teton alpine route - the first of it's class for my resume - an adventure I surely won't forget anytime soon.
An Old-School Adventure – Almost Overhanging (5.9, III), Almost Arete – Disappointment Peak, Grand Teton Nat. Park (08.14.22)
On Sunday August 14th, 2022, Alex Wells joined my obscure vision to climb Almost Overhanging, an 850 foot, 7 pitch, seldom climbed route on Disappointment Peak's Almost Arete. What we found was a "logical" line seriously lacking in traffic though deserving of more, with sound rock where it counted and an exciting variety of climbing styles. If Almost Overhanging could gain some traction, I believe it would stand with Open Book as another high-quality short-approach Garnet Canyon moderate, and help distribute some congestion from other routes in the area.