On Sunday November 8th I climbed my 2025 dream route, onsighting every pitch of Rock Warrior (5.10b, 6 pitches, 800') on the storied Black Velvet Wall of Red Rocks Canyon. I was joined by Bobbi Clemmer and Joy Seward, who both proudly flashed the route.
Run For Your Life – A Trip Report and Essay on Traditional Climbing Ethics (October 2025)
On October 30th I redpointed the notorious Run For Your Life (5.10b R) in Joshua Tree National Park, after taking a huge fall from the final move 24 hours earlier. This article is a trip report in essay form, examining the polarizing topic of traditional climbing ethics.
From The Archives: Joshua Tree 2024
An unpublished account from a two week trip to Joshua Tree National Park in January and February 2024. Two new crack climbers set to work in splitter granite paradise, covering as many moderate classics as possible, and getting sandbagged along the way. A full tick list and recommendations is included for new Josh climbers. A... Continue Reading →
My Own Little World – Flashing The Thrill Is Gone (M4+, WI4) & The Matrix (M4, WI4-), Lessons Learned & Conditions Report – Hyalite Canyon, MT (2.18-2.19, 2022)
After belaying Brian Emory on his first coveted red-point of "The Thrill" just seven days before, I returned with Scott Melin to attempt an "on-sight" lead. We climbed for two days at the Unnamed Wall and Mummy Cooler Areas, ticking ascents on Mummy II, The Matrix, Feeding The Cat, The Fat One and of course, The Thrill Is Gone. A full conditions report and photos are included.
The Deadliest Route in the Tetons – East Face of Teewinot Mountain – Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY (08.2021)
The East Face of Teewinot Mountain is the deadliest route in Grand Teton National Park. But why? After my third lap on the 12,326 foot beauty, I believe I have a good idea. This article doubles as both a trip report and a discussion of "mountaineering in the information era" - a.k.a. 2021
Up To Our Heads – Fat Man’s Misery Canyon – Canyoneering – Orderville, Utah (April 2021)
On April 19th, 2021, Bobbi Clemmer and I tried our hands at the West Fork of Fat Man's Misery, a remote slot canyon requiring multiple rappels and water crossings just outside Zion National Park
A Dream Realized – Skiing the Grand Teton’s Ford-Stettner Couloir – Grand Teton Nat. Park (05.15.20)
The Grand Teton and it's prominent Ford Couloir viewed from the southeast // Jackson, WY "Rise Early. Fix a time-table to which you must try to keep. One seldom regrets having an early start, but one always regrets having set off too late... The day comes to replace the night, the peaks gradually lighten, it... Continue Reading →