Circus Maximus offers six civilized pitches of high quality limestone sport climbing on the shady Palantine Wall of Mount Charleston. I first climbed the route with Jordan Mabrey, falling on two pitches. I returned a week later for a successful redpoint with the Alpine Peanut.
Free As Can Be – The Zar Wall (5.11c, 9p, 900′) – Universal Wall – Mount Charleston, NV (07.11.26)
The Zar Wall is a magnificent piece of route-finding on one of Mount Charleston's proudest walls. Weaving a clever and devious line through a myriad of natural features - cracks, corners and generously featured faces - the Zar has a traditional climbing feel despite only requiring 18 quickdraws.
Run For Your Life – A Trip Report and Essay on Traditional Climbing Ethics (October 2025)
On October 30th I redpointed the notorious Run For Your Life (5.10b R) in Joshua Tree National Park, after taking a huge fall from the final move 24 hours earlier. This article is a trip report in essay form, examining the polarizing topic of traditional climbing ethics.
Commitment – Joshua Tree 2025 (Part One, Week One)
Bobbi Clemmer and I returned to Joshua Tree National Park for our second annual two week winter escape, where we climbed... and climbed... and climbed. This article is split into two parts, and features a brief creative piece on commitment as well as a traditional trip report.
Sending 5.11 – Five Things I Learned in My First Year of Climbing
One year ago (Sept. 2020) I bought my first pair of climbing shoes. My cardinal goal was simple - 5.11 by day 365. By month 11 the chains were clipped, and along the way I learned many lessons. From sport to trad, alpine faces to lowland boulders, I pushed my limits. This article is a distillation of my first year climbing experience - the article I wish I read as a budding and infinitely inspired young climber.