Breaking news: Our Teton snowpack has achieved "grim" status - but luckily it's remained damn cold. Instead of futzing around on skis, Brian Emory and I took off to Bozeman for some mid-week ice climbing. I managed to lead & flash two WI-4's, my first at the grade, and Brian sent his long time project, The Thrill Is Gone (M4, WI-4). Read on for a few anecdotes and a conditions report in the Genesis and Unnamed Wall areas.
Quality Quarantine – Middle Teton – North Ridge & NW Ice Couloir (5.6, AI2), East Face Ski Descent – Grand Teton N.P. (1.30.22)
The North Face of the Middle Teton holds two classic alpine routes in a commanding setting, the North Ridge (5.6, rock) and the Northwest Ice Couloir (5.6, AI2, steep snow). The two can be linked together to form a fusion technical mountaineering route popular with winter climbers. The East Face is one of the Fifty... Continue Reading →
Mount Owen – A Winter Summit and Ski Descent – Koven Route (5.3), Southeast Face and Diagonal Couloir – Grand Teton N.P. (03.02.21)
On March 5th 2021, Sam Johnson and I had one of our wildest ski mountaineering experiences on Mount Owen, the second tallest peak of the Teton Range, which sees very few winter ascents.