Rock Climbing – Ice Climbing – Ski Mountaineering
The North Face of the Middle Teton holds two classic alpine routes in a commanding setting, the North Ridge (5.6, rock) and the Northwest Ice Couloir (5.6, AI2, steep snow). The two can be linked together to form a fusion technical mountaineering route popular with winter climbers. The East Face is one of the Fifty... Continue Reading →
Veiled Peak is the most remote and least traveled 11,000 foot peak in the core Teton Range. Tucked far behind Mount Wister and standing at 11,315 feet, Veiled offers a rugged adventure to skiers and alpinists with an apt for big miles. The North Ridge is a technical scrambling alternative to the intricate and intimidating... Continue Reading →
On December 27th 2021, I remotely triggered an avalanche of serious destructive magnitude while traversing a north-to-south ridgeline, at approximately 9,600 feet in the west Teton backcountry, on skis. The deep persistent slab avalanche broke with a 6-10 foot crown, ran 1,400 feet, uprooted many trees and failed on the "December 5th weak layer". Read... Continue Reading →
First and foremost, it is with a heavy heart that I solemnly offer my condolences to the family of Matthew Brien, a 33 year old Jackson local taken by the mountains far too early. 2021 was undoubtedly one of the toughest years for snow stability in the mountain west. February was the worst - haunted... Continue Reading →
Prospector Falls, also known as "Raven" or "Raven Crack" Falls, is about as classic as they come for ice climbs in Grand Teton National Park. The striking 200 foot main cascade is visible from the easily reached Phelps Lake Overlook, a favorite sight with early winter tourists. The whole route is four pitches, about 400-500... Continue Reading →
One year ago (Sept. 2020) I bought my first pair of climbing shoes. My cardinal goal was simple - 5.11 by day 365. By month 11 the chains were clipped, and along the way I learned many lessons. From sport to trad, alpine faces to lowland boulders, I pushed my limits. This article is a distillation of my first year climbing experience - the article I wish I read as a budding and infinitely inspired young climber.
Fossil Mountain is a remote 10,921 foot peak located deep in the central Teton Range. The Ice Cave Couloir is a short, steep and seldom skied couloir that will only be relevant to enthusiasts of the obscure. While hardly worthy of its' own mission, the "Ice Cave" made a great addition to Carl Osterburg and... Continue Reading →
The Southeast Couloir of Teewinot Mountain is an often overlooked alternative to the highly sought East Face route. Topping out at 11,600 feet on the southernmost shoulder, the 600 foot couloir starts narrow, finishes wide and maintains a steady slope angle in the mid-forty degree* range. Despite impressive views of the Grand Teton and a... Continue Reading →
The Amor A' Vida Couloir is an ultra-classic Teton ski mountaineering objective on the south face of the South Teton. The full technical descent into Avalanche Canyon is nearly 3,000 feet - the first 900 on a vast and airy alpine face, and the latter 2,000 in a continuous, unique and especially aesthetic couloir.
The Moonwalk Couloir is located on the west-north-west side of 25 Short (USGS Peak 9975') in Grand Teton National Park - a more committing and exciting alternative to the commonly skied Chute the Moon and Turkey Chute Couloirs. The line rarely (if ever) fills in from the top, requiring a mild but exposed down-climb that... Continue Reading →
Ten Thousand Too Far 