The Sentinel Ice Couloir is a two... or three... or four pitch moderate ice climb on the southern aspect of Albright Peak (north side of Death Canyon). While hardly a classic, this quirky route provides an alpine style climb in a very dramatic setting, and probably the easiest accessed pitch of grade four water ice in Grand Teton National Park. Despite the Tetons receiving a walloping of snow the past week, Connor James and I set out determined to make this long planned mission happen, no matter the powder that stood in our way.
Untracked Powder in the Symmetry Couloir – Symmetry Spire/Storm Point Area – Grand Teton N.P. (02.06.22)
The Symmetry Couloir, as defined in Connor Miller's Black Book, is the large avalanche path directly south of Symmetry Spire, north of Storm Point, on the opposite shore of Jenny Lake. On February 6th, after almost a month of minimal to no snow, Chase Krumholz and I set off for this obscure line in hopes of harvesting untracked turns.
North with New Friends – Unexpected Powder on Leeks Peak (USGS 10,333′) – Grand Teton N.P. (02.04.22)
Leeks Peak (USGS Peak 10,333') is the first highpoint on the south side of Colter Canyon in Grand Teton National Park. A long approach across Jackson Lake and a lack of prominent striking terrain steers most day trippers away, but when the snow in the core range is tracked to hell, peaks like Leeks begin to make more sense. In exchange for eight hours of time, our crew of three scored a phenomenal 3,500 foot powder run I look forward to skiing again, and valuable insight to a new area of GTNP with infinite steep descent potential.
Quality Quarantine – Middle Teton – North Ridge & NW Ice Couloir (5.6, AI2), East Face Ski Descent – Grand Teton N.P. (1.30.22)
The North Face of the Middle Teton holds two classic alpine routes in a commanding setting, the North Ridge (5.6, rock) and the Northwest Ice Couloir (5.6, AI2, steep snow). The two can be linked together to form a fusion technical mountaineering route popular with winter climbers. The East Face is one of the Fifty... Continue Reading →
But Where Are We? – Veiled Peak – North Ridge (4th) & NE Face Ski Descent – Grand Teton N.P. (1.16.22)
Veiled Peak is the most remote and least traveled 11,000 foot peak in the core Teton Range. Tucked far behind Mount Wister and standing at 11,315 feet, Veiled offers a rugged adventure to skiers and alpinists with an apt for big miles. The North Ridge is a technical scrambling alternative to the intricate and intimidating... Continue Reading →
January on the Grand – Ford-Stettner Couloir, Grand Teton – GTNP, WY (01.19.22)
The Ford-Stettner route on the Grand Teton is arguably the range's most classic and sought ski mountaineering descent. On January 19th, 2022, I completed my second successful climb and ski descent of the Ford-Stettner, this time with a brand new partner. In classic Grand Teton fashion we battled copious unknowns, learned many lessons and returned... Continue Reading →
Near Miss – An Avalanche Survival Story – Broken Thumb Couloir – Grand Teton N.P. (01.26.20)
First and foremost, it is with a heavy heart that I solemnly offer my condolences to the family of Matthew Brien, a 33 year old Jackson local taken by the mountains far too early. 2021 was undoubtedly one of the toughest years for snow stability in the mountain west. February was the worst - haunted... Continue Reading →
Sending 5.11 – Five Things I Learned in My First Year of Climbing
One year ago (Sept. 2020) I bought my first pair of climbing shoes. My cardinal goal was simple - 5.11 by day 365. By month 11 the chains were clipped, and along the way I learned many lessons. From sport to trad, alpine faces to lowland boulders, I pushed my limits. This article is a distillation of my first year climbing experience - the article I wish I read as a budding and infinitely inspired young climber.
Fossil Mountain & The Ice Cave Couloir – Waist Deep November Pow & The State of the Teton Snowpack (Nov. 2021)
Fossil Mountain is a remote 10,921 foot peak located deep in the central Teton Range. The Ice Cave Couloir is a short, steep and seldom skied couloir that will only be relevant to enthusiasts of the obscure. While hardly worthy of its' own mission, the "Ice Cave" made a great addition to Carl Osterburg and... Continue Reading →
Teewinot Mountain – Southeast Couloir – A Slushy Summer Mess, and A Near Fatal Miss – Grand Teton N.P. (May 2019)
The Southeast Couloir of Teewinot Mountain is an often overlooked alternative to the highly sought East Face route. Topping out at 11,600 feet on the southernmost shoulder, the 600 foot couloir starts narrow, finishes wide and maintains a steady slope angle in the mid-forty degree* range. Despite impressive views of the Grand Teton and a... Continue Reading →