On November 30th Bobbi and I dusted off the Thanksgiving rust with a quick lap on the Tahquitz moderate classic, Fingertrip.
Run For Your Life – A Trip Report and Essay on Traditional Climbing Ethics (October 2025)
On October 30th I redpointed the notorious Run For Your Life (5.10b R) in Joshua Tree National Park, after taking a huge fall from the final move 24 hours earlier. This article is a trip report in essay form, examining the polarizing topic of traditional climbing ethics.
One Two Punch – The Consolation (5.9, 7 pitches, 800′) – Tahquitz Rock – Idyllwild, CA (09.20.25)
On Saturday September 20th, 2025, I climbed another long and classic Tahquitz crack line with new partner Simon Lee. The Consolation offered several pitches of quintessential granite jamming, a particularly strenuous crux, and a few spectacular exit pitches on the venerable Whodunnit (5.9, III).
Lean Back and Pull – El Camino Real (5.10a, 6 pitches, 500′) – Tahquitz Rock – Idyllwild, CA (09.14.25)
The third pitch of El Camino Real is "one of the great layback cracks of Idyllwild"
Lead Rope Solo Vol. 2 – Dave’s Deviation (5.9, 4p, 500′) & The Jam Crack (5.8) – Tahquitz Rock – Idyllwild, CA (09.07.25)
Bob Gaines dubbed the first pitch of Dave's Deviation one of the best finger cracks in Idyllwild. The Jam Crack is a classic Royal Robbins grunt. I lead rope soloed both routes on September 7th, 2025, and took my first LRS lead fall! Spoiler alert: I'm still alive.
LEAD ROPE SOLO – El Whampo, Direct Start (5.9, III, 800′) – Tahquitz Rock – Idyllwild, CA (09.06.25)
On Saturday September 6th, 2025, I lead rope soloed my first multi-pitch route! El Whampo (5.7, II), and it's direct start via El Grandote (5.9, III), are respective classics on the legendary Tahquitz Rock.
Touching the Holds of Legend – Whodunnit (5.9, III, 800′) – Tahquitz Rock – Idyllwild, CA (08.16.25)
Whodunnit is a physical, varied, sustained, and historical quest up the plumb line of Tahquitz Rock. Since it's first ascent in 1957 by Joe Fritschen and Royal Robbins, this route has been climbed by thousands, including about every United States climbing legend imaginable, and is revered as possibly the best route on Tahquitz. A topo and detailed route description is included for prospective climbers.
Volcano Hopping Part Three – The Lassen Peak Trifecta – Lassen Peak N.P. – California (June 2021)
Skiing every possible aspect of Lassen Peak in a single day, also known as the "Lassen Trifecta"
Volcano Hopping Pt. 2 – Skiing Mount Shasta’s Avalanche Gulch (June 2020)
Skiing the "Left of Heart" variation of Avalanche Gulch on Mount Shasta