On Friday I got out and enjoyed my first GTNP high country ski of the season in Okie's Thorn Couloir, a unique and seldom visited line just northwest of the popular Dike Snowfield.
Two Lake Louise Ice Gully Variations – Wind River Range, WY (12.17.23)
On Sunday December 17th Erik Boomer and I climbed two variations to the standard and classic Lake Louise Ice Gully route in Wyoming's Wind River Range. Since the Gully has been well documented on Ten Thousand Too Far, this article will focus primarily on the variations, which are both exciting and unique ways to experience a classic climb from a different perspective.
Rockfall, Shoulder Tweaks and Snowy Slabs – Alpine Simulator (M4, III) – Garden Creek Gap, ID (12.13.23)
I returned to the Garden Creek Gap for the third time in 13 days to find the elusive Alpine Simulator route. Another wild quest up a 1200' sea of river polished quartzite.
Lappin’ the Gap – Ghetto Simulator (M4, 5.7, III) – Garden Creek Gap, ID (12.07.23)
The Ghetto Simulator is a six pitch route on the west side of the North Face of Garden Creek Gap, most commonly climbed as a mixed route in winter. The climb is slightly less sustained, but no less fun, than the challenging routes on the central face.
An Unknowing First Ascent – Agri-Alpinism (M5+, III) – Garden Creek Gap, ID (12.01.23)
"The Gap" is an unlikely quartzite climbing area just south of Pocatello, Idaho, known for long winter mixed routes up to 1200 feet rising directly from the road. Jed Porter and I unknowingly climbed a first ascent while looking for the Alpine Simulator in a winter storm - thankfully, our route was excellent! We named... Continue Reading →
Wet Pillar Laps – Teewinot North Guillies Left (WI4+) – GTNP, WY (11.21.23)
A bike-ice-bike kickoff to the Grand Teton National Park ice season in Cascade Canyon- a proper pump before a Tofurky feast on Indigenous People's Day.
Cerebral – A Rare Ascent of Styrofoam Boots (WI4+R, M3, III) – Sphinx Mountain, MT (11.17.23)
Styrofoam Boots, also known as Spinxinated and formally the "Unknown Route", is an ephemeral gem that only forms "every decade or so" on the North Face of Sphinx Mountain. For us it was difficult and testing mixed climb of the highest quality - the route's first ascent of the season and perhaps of many years.
Chasing The Frozen Dragon – Lowe Route (WI4-, II) – Sphinx Mountain, MT (11.10.23)
The North Face of Sphinx Mountain is a renowned early season ice venue outside of Cameron, Montana. The Lowe Route is the trade fare, which can be climbed anywhere from WI5 to WI3 to M5. We found it in WI4 and ever so slightly mixed conditions. First ice of the season baby!
Mount Borah North Face Ice and Mixed Recon – Lost River Range, ID (10.28.23)
Not a trip report. A few notes on an unsuccessful trip to the dark side of Mount Borah, with beta pictures of the North Face (AI2), Psycho Therapy (AI4, M6), Borah Borah Borah (WI3, 5.7) and some bonus ice.
Durrance (5.8, II) – Bear Lodge (Devils Tower), WY (Oct. 2023)
Bear Lodge is the indigenous name for the iconic 867 foot free-standing igneous monolith commonly known as Devils Tower. The Durrance (5.8, II) is the easiest route up Bear Lodge, with pitch after pitch of slippery, old-school, wide crack climbing.