Rock Climbing – Ice Climbing – Ski Mountaineering
Styrofoam Boots, also known as Spinxinated and formally the "Unknown Route", is an ephemeral gem that only forms "every decade or so" on the North Face of Sphinx Mountain. For us it was difficult and testing mixed climb of the highest quality - the route's first ascent of the season and perhaps of many years.
The North Face of Sphinx Mountain is a renowned early season ice venue outside of Cameron, Montana. The Lowe Route is the trade fare, which can be climbed anywhere from WI5 to WI3 to M5. We found it in WI4 and ever so slightly mixed conditions. First ice of the season baby!
Not a trip report. A few notes on an unsuccessful trip to the dark side of Mount Borah, with beta pictures of the North Face (AI2), Psycho Therapy (AI4, M6), Borah Borah Borah (WI3, 5.7) and some bonus ice.
Bear Lodge is the indigenous name for the iconic 867 foot free-standing igneous monolith commonly known as Devils Tower. The Durrance (5.8, II) is the easiest route up Bear Lodge, with pitch after pitch of slippery, old-school, wide crack climbing.
The Needles host some of the boldest old-school trad lines in the country, with rich history on amazing granite pillars. Bobbi Clemmer, Carl Osterburg, Bailey Haus and I sampled some of the moderate four-star classics over two days, including Threading the Needle (5.8+ R/X), Tricouni Nail (5.8 R) and Tent Peg (5.7 R).
The Durrance Ridge is a classic south-facing alpine moderate on Symmetry Spire. Our motivation to climb was two-fold: search for some lost gear the week prior, and enjoy a final alpine day before the impending onset of winter. Mini topo of the Durrance and Direct Jensen Ridges Wow! What a treat. After an adventurous outing... Continue Reading →
Table Mountain gets climbed 2.5 billion times each summer via Idaho and its popular "Face Trail", but its east aspect provides an entirely different challenge. Heartbreak Ridge is the premier moderate outing on the peak, with eight-ish pitches up to 5.7/5.8 on generally stellar granite.
After four days of relentless precipitation Connor James and I decided to give Manfactured Crisis a roll, despite neither of us being 5.11 alpine climbers. The result? A four pitch adventure that went "free" at 5.10 C0 - and now we have a project.
Two weekends ago Ricky Bobbi and I packed sparkly waters and fresh produce into high places, and enjoyed an awesome, almost leisurely, camp-to-camp ascent of Nez Perce's acclaimed Direct South Ridge (5.7+, III) over three days.
Escape From Death is a worthy five pitch outing on Cathedral Rock in Death Canyon, with an absolutely excellent crux pitch, on surprisingly great stone.
Ten Thousand Too Far 