A Grand Finale – Cowboy Powder in The Ford Couloir – Grand Teton – GTNP, WY (05.27.23)
On May 27th Vinny Gwinn and I climbed and skied the Ford-Stettner route on the Grand Teton, the likely punctuation to another phenomenal ski mountaineering season in the Tetons.
“Stuart Draw Triple” – Skiing Static Peak, Buck Mountain and Peak 10,696 In A Day – GTNP, WY (05.20.23)
Albright, Static and Buck is the classic, but I think this one might be more logical, at least for skiing. A ~7000 vertical foot day, somewhere in the realm of 10-13 miles, on the three peaks that crown the Stuart Draw drainage – one of the best this season.
Committed – Zorro Snowfield, Spalding Peak – GTNP, WY (05.18.23)
The Zorro Snowfield is a mythical ski mountaineering descent on the northeast aspect of Spalding Peak, a winding, unintuitive journey down 1,300 feet of steep off-camber ramps underpinned by a monstrous (nearly quarter mile wide) cliff. Sadly, our conditions didn’t align for the most stylish descent, but descend we did.
MORE MAY POWDER – Spalding Peak North Snowfield – GTNP, WY (05.14.23)
The North Snowfield of Spalding Peak is yet another “steeper than it looks” and overlooked line in the South Fork of Garnet Canyon, complete with a unique summit, and on May 14th was the bearer of rarefied May powder. Skiing from just below 12,240 feet, this line could possibly be the mellowest descent from 12,000…
Transcendence – Northeast Snowfields – Mount Owen – GTNP, WY (05.12.23)
Mount Owen’s Northeast Snowfields are a coveted and seminal tick for Teton ski mountaineers – a serious, exposed and committing 2,500 foot descent requiring at least one rappel – a line I’ve chased for years, and finally had the chance to bag with Vinny Gwinn on May 12th, 2023.
True Ski Mountaineering in the Twelve Thousand Couloir – Peak 12,000+ (Mount Moran) – GTNP, WY (05.06.23)
Peak 12,000+ is the largest west sub-peak of the Mount Moran massif, home to a truly stellar and seldom visited ski mountaineering line we’re calling the Twelve Thousand Couloir. Sustained 45 degree no-fall skiing on a 1,000 foot hanging snowfield, with a thin 55 degree escape crux, and 4,200 total feet of quality skiing to…
Denied in the Chockstone Couloir – Mount Wister – GTNP, WY (04.27.23)
On April 24th Reed and I got denied in Mount Wister’s Chockstone Couloir, more commonly known as the Northwest Couloir, attempting a top-down ski descent. Useful for the next descentionist?
Solo in Quartzite Canyon – North Face Couloir, Peak 10,686 – GTNP, WY (04.22.23)
The North Face of Peak 10,686 is home to one of the most striking ski mountaineering lines north of Mount Moran. A beautiful, meditative, solo day in the north end.
Laying Low – North Couloir of Leek’s Peak (10,333′) – GTNP, WY (04.16.23)
On Sunday April 16th I reconnected with Reed Finlay for an interesting powder redemption tick in Colter Canyon, the surprisingly exciting North Couloir of Leek’s Peak.
Socked In – NE Snowfields Attempt, Diagonal Couloir Success – Mount Owen, GTNP (04.12.23)
On Wednesday April 12th, Connor James and I got caught in a storm atop Mount Owen’s Northeast Snowfields. We down-climbed the lower East Ridge and made a successful ski descent, my second and partner’s first, of the Diagonal Couloir into Cascade Canyon.
Chasing Winter in the Black Hole Couloir – Eagles Rest Peak – GTNP, WY (04.08.23)
The Black Hole Couloir is a 2,500 foot snake-like, and quite narrow, couloir on the north aspect of Eagles Rest Peak in Waterfalls Canyon. A long approach is rewarded with a truly unique Teton descent. Bonus recon shots of Darkness Falls.
Lake Louise Ice Gully (WI3-4, II) – Wind River Range, Fitzpatrick Wilderness, WY (03.25.23)
On March 25th Liam Wylie and I connected for a quick lap in the Lake Louise Ice Gully – my second time climbing this classic and aesthetic four-pitch moderate outside Dubois, WY. Spoiler alert, Liam racked up his first lead!
50 Degrees in The Overlooked Couloir – Nez Perce, GTNP, WY (03.19.23)
The Overlooked Couloir is the lower NW Couloir on Nez Perce, topping out a few hundred feet above the East/West Hourglass’s and sporting a sustained 50 degree slope for over 400 feet, above a cliff with a low crux – no falls accepted – an interesting consolation prize, and first personal descent, in the South…
Dike Snowfield & Peak 11,751′ (East Prong SE Face) – A Link-Up – GTNP, WY (03.18.23)
On Saturday I enjoyed a Garnet Canyon/Glacial Gulch link-up, skiing the Dike Snowfield to Teton Glacier, climbing to the Tallboy Col and eventually skiing the rarely descended SE face of Peak 11,751 (East summit of the East Prong). Both descents were personal firsts, a great day in the hills.
West Glass Rando – Bottomless in the West Hourglass Couloir – Nez Perce – GTNP, WY (03.08.23)
The West Hourglass Couloir begins at 11,400 feet on the West Ridge of Nez Perce, averaging about 1,000 feet of 40 degree fall-line couloir skiing with a 50 degree crux, and an even longer runout. In full, the line is quite simply 2,200 feet of Teton bliss, an absolute classic Teton powder descent. The snow…
Ovisight (WI6, IV) – South Fork Daze 4 – Cody, WY (02.2023)
Fully visible from South Fork Road, Ovisight is a three pitch WI6 climb of grand proportions, dominating the upper reaches of the Legg Creek drainage with a triad of impressive free-standing pillars, all WI5 or harder.
The Moratorium (WI4, II), High On Boulder and Pillar Of Pain (WI5, IV) – South Fork Daze 1 & 2 – Cody, WY (02.18.23)
The Moratorium (WI4) is the longest continuous waterfall ice climb (~100M, 300 feet) in the South Fork of the Shoshone River. High On Boulder is a three-pitch true classic at the WI4 grade, and when connected with the Pillar Of Pain, forms a five pitch alpine style route with two additional pitches up to WI5/6.
Eagle Scout Pillar (WI5, I) – A Special Day – Teton Canyon, WY (02.05.23)
The Eagle Scout Pillar, a.k.a. Mack-Tyson Pillar, is perhaps the gem of steep waterfall ice in the Teton Range. Tucked into the deep recedes of Teton Canyon, “the pillar” provides a consistent 35M of vertical or overhanging climbing ranging anywhere from WI5- to WI6R. On a fine snowy Sunday, Jorge Hedreen and I both led…
Golden Tears (WI4, III) – THE Northwest Wyoming Classic – Dubois, WY (02.02.23)
Golden Tears (tiers?) may the “most classic” waterfall ice climb in the greater Jackson Hole area, with 500 feet of terraced WI4/WI4+ climbing above Lake Louise and the sleepy town of Dubois, Wyoming. Finding the beast in suitable attire can be finicky business, as some years the lower pitches don’t form at all, but on…
“One of the Best, and Headiest” – Mummy Cooler III & IV (via Scepter) (WI6-, M6, III) & Other Ice Happenings – Hyalite Canyon, MT (01.22.23)
The hanging WI5-6 dagger of “Mummy Four” stands as the single most impressive ice formation on the east side of Hyalite Canyon besides the ever famous Winter Dance. To reach it, Chris Hackbarth and I climbed the Scepter (WI5) and “Mummy Three” (M6, WI3) in what turned out to be an excellent grade three kind-of…
![An Argument For Three-Piece Bail Anchors – Piton Rips on Rappel – First Hand Account [opinions]](https://tenthousandtoofar.files.wordpress.com/2022/04/web-tallboytwin-20.jpg?w=1200)
An Argument For Three-Piece Bail Anchors – Piton Rips on Rappel – First Hand Account [opinions]
A first hand account of a “bomber” piton ripping from a rappel anchor while ski mountaineering in the remote necks of Grand Teton National Park. Amidst a growing climate of “two-piece” alpine anchors, this article presents a compelling argument for placing a third, especially when pitons are involved. “Make it bomber, keep it simple, and…
Sub-Four Hours in the Four Hour Couloir (+ recon photos) – Shadow Peak/Nez Perce, Grand Teton N.P. (12.16.22)
On December 16th I got out for my first steep ski of 2022/23 in the ever-popular Four Hour Couloir on Shadow Peak. Not surprisingly it was well hacked by at least three parties, but the snow was soft enough for an enjoyable and quick morning lap before heading off to Utah for Christmas break. This…
A Classic Wasatch Ice Linkup – Squash Head (WI4, II) and Backoff (WI4, II) – Santaquin Canyon, UT (12.17.22)
On Saturday the 17th of December, 2022, Colten Moore and I climbed a local-classic link-up of Squash Head (WI4, II) and Backoff (WI4, II), for a total of four stunning pitches in the beautiful and sleepy Santaquin Canyon of Utah’s Uinta Mountains.
South Side Exploration – Lehman’s Lament (Grand Wall, WI3-4), Green Pea Pillar (WI4+) and South Wall Conditions Report – Teton Canyon, WY (12.10.22)
Early season ice on the south side of Teton Canyon with Connor James – Lehman’s Lament (WI3R) and Green Pea (WI4+)
Are You Ready? – 2018 Stoke From The Spoon Couloir – Disappointment Peak, Grand Teton Nat. Park (Feb. 2018)
As the 2022/23 winter is slow to ramp up, and I’m still spending time digesting my Thanksgiving meal with family, I figured I would add this short bight from what was perhaps my first “real” Teton ski mountaineering descent – the famed Spoon Couloir on Disappointment Peak – circa 2018. Are you ready? (trip report…
![[NEW] Chouinard-Frost Chimney (5.9+, IV) Topo – Disappointment Peak, North Face, Grand Teton Nat. Park (2022)](https://tenthousandtoofar.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/chou-frost-topo.jpg?w=1200)
[NEW] Chouinard-Frost Chimney (5.9+, IV) Topo – Disappointment Peak, North Face, Grand Teton Nat. Park (2022)
An updated and thorough topo of the Chouinard-Frost Chimney on the north face of Disappointment Peak in Grand Teton National Park.
Early Ice in Teton Canyon – Boy Scout Falls (WI3+, M3, R) Trip Report & Eagle Scout Conditions Report (11.24.22)
On Monday November 21st, 2022, Mike Parri and I walked the southern wall of Teton Canyon, scouting the Eagle Scout (Mack-Tyson) Pillar and eventually climbing Boy Scout Falls in precariously thin WI3+, M3 conditions, seemingly the first ascent of winter 2022/23.
Day One Pump – Prospector Falls (WI4-, IV) – Death Canyon South, Grand Teton Nat. Park (11.19.22)
On Saturday November 19th, 2022, Eric Boomer and I made the arduous five mile pillage into Death Canyon for one of Grand Teton National Park’s finest early season ice climbs. The main flow was well formed and climbed at WI4-.
Death Canyon Early Season Ice Report, Grand Teton National Park (11.10.22)
A first for Ten Thousand Too Far, this is not a trip report – but a simple conditions report on the main ice climbs at the mouth of Death Canyon in Grand Teton National Park, after a futile ice trip on November 10th, 2022.
More Sustained – Cardiac Aretes, Man O’ War Variation (5.9, II) – Ship’s Prow, Grand Teton Nat. Park (10.17.22)
A week before the onset of winter 2022, Connor James and I connected the dots on a more sustained variation to the traditional, and somewhat classic, Cardiac Aretes (5.9/5.10-, II) on Omega Buttress. Our line followed the lower half of Man O’ War (5.8, II) for two pitches of adventurous and varied, albeit discontinuous climbing…
A Seven Pitch Jenny Lake Link-Up – Seizure Disorder, Direct South Ridge (Baxter’s Pinnacle, 5.10) and No Perches Necessary (5.9R) – Grand Teton Nat. Park (10.20.22)
Seizure Disorder is a single pitch 5.10- variation to the original South Ridge (5.9, II, 5 pitches) route on Baxter’s Pinnacle. No Perches Necessary is a short but worthy two pitch affair at the mouth of Cascade Canyon, featuring a stellar and sustained 5.9 fist crack, and a bold 5.8R runout slab pitch. On October…
Almost, But Not Really, Classic – Peaches (5.8, II) – Stuart Draw, Grand Teton National Park (10.14.22)
Peaches is an adventurous four pitch, grade two, 5.8 rock climb established by Yvon Chouinard and Kathryn Collins in 1980, and has seen few repeats since. Though only graded 5.8, if twenty foot runouts above small brass nuts puts bees in your bonnet, this might not be the climb for you.
“Every Bit of 5.9” – Dihedral Of Horrors (5.9, II) – Ship’s Prow – Grand Teton Nat. Park (08.10.22)
On August 10th, 2022 I reconnected with an old-friend to climb the classic Dihedral Of Horrors (5.9, II) on the Ship’s Prow in Grand Teton National Park. Instead of spraying about a route with plenty of available beta, this article will serve as mostly a photo dump, to round out 10K2Far, plus a few route…
Birthday Sends on Baxter’s Pinnacle 🎂 – South Ridge (5.9+, II) – Grand Teton N.P. (10.05.22)
October 5th was Bobbi Clemmer’s birthday, and to celebrate we repeated one of our favorite lowland multi-pitch climbs in Grand Teton National Park, the South Ridge of Baxter’s Pinnacle. Bobbi earned her trad stripes on this classic 4-5 pitch route, leading all but the final 5.9 crux pitch. Having only climbed two years, the birthday…
Ice Cream Cone Topo – West Crack (5.7) – Grand Teton Nat. Park (2022)
The west crack of the “Ice Cream Cone” (USGS ~12,405) in Grand Teton National Park is the most popular route of ascent for southbound Grand Traverse parties. To my knowledge there is no existing topo for this route on the internet. This “post” is nothing more than a photo and route description for future parties.…
You Belong – North Ridge (5.9/5.8, IV) – Mount Owen, Grand Teton Nat. Park (08.29.22)
Mount Owen’s North Ridge is one of the longest, most aesthetic, yet equally demanding mountaineering routes in Grand Teton National Park, tucked away on the western flanks of the seldom traveled Owen-Teewinot Cirque. The route encompasses over 6,000 feet of elevation gain, half of which is considered “technical” – 4th class and above – and…
Unique In Every Way – Dike Route and East Face (5.6, 5.4, IV) – Dike Pinnacle and Middle Teton, Grand Teton Nat. Park (08.20.22)
The Dike Route is a captivating 3000′ alpine climb that ascends the east face of the 12,809′ Middle Teton and it’s eastern sub-peak, the 12,350′ Dike Pinnacle, by way of a striking diabase dike gawked at by Garnet Canyon travelers far and wide. The “climb” is better classified as a full spectrum mountaineering adventure, with…
An Old-School Adventure – Almost Overhanging (5.9, III), Almost Arete – Disappointment Peak, Grand Teton Nat. Park (08.14.22)
On Sunday August 14th, 2022, Alex Wells joined my obscure vision to climb Almost Overhanging, an 850 foot, 7 pitch, seldom climbed route on Disappointment Peak’s Almost Arete. What we found was a “logical” line seriously lacking in traffic though deserving of more, with sound rock where it counted and an exciting variety of climbing…
Coffee Cake and Quartz Crystals on the Taminah Arete (5.9, III) – Matternought Peak, Grand Teton N.P. (08.07.22)
The Taminah Arete (5.9, III) ascends the prominent aesthetic south ridge of Matternought Peak, an 11,360 foot southern spur of the larger Gilkey Tower. On Sunday August 7th, 2022, Liam Wylie and I completed the climb in 19 hours car-to-car – one of our finest Teton adventures, though perhaps a tent would have served us…
First Teton 5.10 – Climbing The Snaz (5.10a, IV), Cathedral Rock, Grand Teton N.P. (07.31.22)
The Snaz is an ultra-ultra-classic 800 foot, grade IV, 5.10- rock route on the south face of Albright Peak in Grand Teton National Park, first established by Yvon Chouinard & Mort Hempel in 1964. With an emphasis on wide cracks and a big crux roof, the Snaz played to my weaknesses for a supremely challenging…
Addicted to the Shindig – Open Book (5.9+, III) – Disappointment Peak, Grand Teton N.P. (07.24.22)
On July 24th, Liam Wylie and I climbed Open Book, a six pitch, 450 foot, grade III rock route on the southeast face of Grunt Arete, the first rock feature east of Disappointment Peak’s SE Ridge, beginning in Garnet Canyon. Open Book is a Teton classic by all standards, with a stacked deck of unrelenting…
Fun Every Time – East Ridge (5.7, II), Disappointment Peak, Grand Teton N.P. (07.09.22)
Disappointment Peak’s East Ridge is perhaps the best moderate multi-pitch alpine climb in Grand Teton National Park. Ease of access combines with straightforward route finding, sound rock and epic views to create a one-of-a-kind 5.7 Teton experience. As Bobbi’s first alpine climb of the year, we sought this route in hopes of landing her first…
Thou Shall Not Fall – Chouinard-Frost Chimney (5.9, IV) – Disappointment Peak, Grand Teton N.P. (07.10.22)
The Chouinard-Frost Chimney (5.9, IV) is a notoriously old-school rock route on the north face of 11,623 foot Disappointment Peak in Grand Teton National Park. Run-outs, loose rock, visionary traverses and a very real sense of adventure characterize this “classic” Teton route.
In The Name Of Friendship – Skiing the Grand Teton’s Ford-Stettner Couloir in June – GT Nat. Park (06.08.22)
On June 8th, 2022, Carl Osterburg and I skied the Grand Teton via the traditional “Ford-Stettner Couloir” Route. This was Carl’s first and my fourth Grand Teton ski descent, a mission propelled by one sole purpose, enjoying a final day in the mountains with my best Teton friend before he packs up and moves to…
A Winter of Gratitude – 2022 Ski Recap, Five Things I Learned and My Favorite Photos (2022)
The winter of 2021/22 was far and above my best yet. I skied more steep lines in the Tetons, with a wider array of partners, than I have in the past three seasons combined, and was left with an overwhelming sense of gratitude.
Backyard Ice – Boy Scout Falls (WI3) – Teton Canyon, WY (03.2022)
Sifting through half written blog drafts from this past winter, I decided to finish up this short trip report for the sake of completeness – and to share some of my favorite pictures. Though far from a destination route, Boy Scout Falls provides an excellent moderate multi-pitch ice experience with easy access from the “Idaho…
Water Ice Zero to Leading WI4 – 5 Things I Learned in My First Winter of Ice and Mixed Climbing (2022)
A reflective article from the winter of 2021/22, my first true season of ice, mixed and technical alpine winter climbing.
Corn on the East Face! – Teewinot Mountain, GT Nat. Park (05.18.2022)
May 18th, 2022 saw my second summit ski descent of the East Face of Teewinot Mountain. Sustained 45+ degree face skiing above terraced cliffs and a 400 foot wide upper bowl funneling through a ski-width choke characterize this extremely classic Teton ski mountaineering objective. Connor James and I took advantage of the newly cleared Lupine…
A Three Day Moab Sendoff – Canyon Point Butte, The Sphinx, Wall Street & Bobbi’s First 5.10!
A simple photo journal of three great days climbing around Moab with John Modlish and Mila Deych on their way out of town. As a crew of four we climbed two buttes in Canyonlands National Park, Canyon Point and The Sphinx, and enjoyed three days of roadside cragging at Wall Street, where Bobbi Clemmer projected…
It’s a War Zone – Late Season Powder in the V Couloir – Prospectors Mountain – GT Nat. Park, WY (04.28.22)
The V Couloir is a lesser skied 1,000 foot technical couloir on the north side of Prospectors Mountain. Mid-fifty degree skiing above exposure, a mid-run ice fall and likewise rappel, and notorious overhead danger characterize this exceptionally scenic yet serious ski mountaineering descent. On April 28th Connor James and I tackled the beast in iffy…
Three Times The Charm – We Finally Found the Tallboy Couloir – Owen/Teewinot Cirque – GT Nat. Park, WY (04.24.22)
The Tallboy Couloir is an underground classic in the Teton steep skiing scene. 4,000 feet of fall-line vertical relief, uber-exposed entrance, 1,000 feet of sustained 50 degree skiing in a commanding, narrow and consequential upper couloir, all in the shadows of two of the Teton’s finest peaks, Mount Owen and Teewinot Mountain – need I…
Rainy Couloir Stoke – Skywalk and Chuter Buck Couloirs – 25 Short/Avalanche Cyn. – GT Nat. Park, WY (04.21.22)
The Skywalk Couloir is a seldom skied and deceptively steep 500 foot technical couloir on the west side of Peak 25 Short, just left of the popular Moonwalk Couloir. Chuter Buck is a striking 800 foot technical couloir diving north from the bench beneath Buck Mountain and Peak 10,696. After scoring the MoonWALK in great…
April Powder in the Moonwalk Couloir – 25 Short – Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY (04.20.22)
Today I had the pleasure of skiing the Moonwalk Couloir with Reed Finlay and Brian Ladd. Instead of a full beta bomb, this will be a quickie with a few photos, mostly for a conditions update. For a deep dive into the Moonwalk Couloir, click here. Wow, April just won’t quit! About four feet of…
Bobbi Chutes The Moon! – Chute The Moon Couloir, 25 Short/Peak 10,696 – Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY (04.16.22)
This weekend I had the pleasure of joining Bobbi Clemmer on her first ever… ever… couloir ski descent – and I’m happy to report she knocked the ball out of the park! Chute The Moon was the name of the game, one of the few and finest “entry-level” couloirs in the Tetons. Load the beast…
![A Closer Look: Reducing Congestion on the Grand Teton’s Most Popular Ski Route [opinions]](https://tenthousandtoofar.files.wordpress.com/2022/04/gt-ws-annotated.jpg?w=1200)
A Closer Look: Reducing Congestion on the Grand Teton’s Most Popular Ski Route [opinions]
In 2015, David Gonzales wrote a popular article for POWDER Magazine titled “Is There A Better Way to Ski the Grand Teton?” – in which he discusses the perilous and increasingly pressing issue of congestion on the Grand Teton’s most popular ski route, the Ford-Stettner. This article will double down on Gonzales’s work, putting a…
Unintentionally Rowdy – Skiing The Tallboy’s Evil Twin – Owen/Teewinot Cirque, Grand Teton Nat. Park (04.09.22)
This past weekend Carl Osterberg, Ryan Corley and I made an unintentional descent of a rarely skied line on the north side of Peak 11,840 while looking for the renowned Tallboy Couloir. The Tallboy’s Evil Twin, also known as the Just Enough Couloir, begins at the saddle separating Teewinot Mountain and Peak 11,840, dropping over…
Last Call? – Lake Louise Ice Gully (WI3-4, III) – Wind River Range, WY (03.20.22)
The Lake Louise Ice Gully is a 3-4 pitch alpine ice climb situated stunningly above Lake Louise on the eastern flank of Wyoming’s Wind River Range, easily accessed from the small town of Dubois. The very wide flow is considered classic for the area and has many variations, ranging from rambling WI3 to firm WI4,…
First Winter Grand Teton Solo – East Face/Starr-Workman Variation, Ski Descent – Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY (03.30.22)
On March 30th, 2022 I completed my first solo climb and ski descent of the Grand Teton, with ropes used for rappel. I used the traditional Stettner & Chevy Couloirs (WI2+, steep snow) for ascent, but climbed a new (to me) variation of the Ford Couloir – the “Workman-Starr Sneak” – to access the summit…
Straight Bananas! – Banana Couloir – Prospectors Mountain – Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY (03.25.22)
The “Banana Couloir” is more of a massive gully than a true couloir, providing 3,300 feet of moderate fall-line skiing on the most commanding east face of the southern Tetons. Beginning at roughly 11,000 feet, “the Banana” maintains an average slope angle above 30 degrees for over one whole skiable mile (take a second to…
North End Recon & Beta Bomb – Eagles Rest (almost) In A Day – Waterfalls Canyon, Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY (3.16.22)
Eagles Rest Glacier? Waterfalls Glacier? I’m not sure how this thing doesn’t have a name, but someone should call USGS and tell them there’s a huge glacier separating the twin summits of Eagles Rest Peak, deep in the confines of Waterfalls Canyon, needing a title. Either way, first time partner Nick LaToof and I skied…
Truly Magical – Knee Deep Powder in the Ellingwood Couloir – Middle Teton – Grand Teton National Park, WY (03.14.22)
According to the late great Steve Romeo, acclaimed Teton ski mountaineer and founder of TetonAT.com, “The Ellingwood Couloir on the Middle Teton is one of the most classic steep descents in the Teton Range”, and if Romeo deems it a classic, I’ll give it my humble blessing too. The Ellingwood is one of the very,…
Randonee’ Skis, Apocalyptic Winds and Thigh Deep Powder – Red Sentinel Couloir, Grand Teton National Park, WY (03.12.22)
The Red Sentinel Couloir has become somewhat of a Teton “trade route” the past few seasons. Why has it taken me six winters to ski this iconic line? Probably the same reason I haven’t skied the Apocalypse Couloir – WHO KNOWS! On March 12th, 2022 I finally tagged the beast, scoring 100% fresh tracks in…
Building Confidence – Climbing the Sentinel Ice Couloir (WI3/4) – Grand Teton National Park, WY (03.10.22)
The Sentinel Ice Couloir is a two… or three… or four pitch moderate ice climb on the southern aspect of Albright Peak (north side of Death Canyon). While hardly a classic, this quirky route provides an alpine style climb in a very dramatic setting, and probably the easiest accessed pitch of grade four water ice…
Five Things I Learned on My First Bishop Bouldering Trip
It’s approaching spring climbing road trip season! Around this time last year (2021) I took off to Bishop California for three weeks of bouldering, and despite breaking my wrist on day four learned a tremendous amount about the Bishop bouldering scene, especially as it pertains to beginners. I climbed at the Buttermilks as well as…
Deep Powder, Wind Slabs and Everything In-Between – Eddington Chutes – Teton Canyon, WY (02.23.2022)
The Eddington Chutes on Treasure Mountain are home to possibly the best fall line skiing on the west slope of the Tetons. After a rapid pulse of snow following 5-6 weeks of high pressure, Reed Finlay and I sought sheltered powder and thought this to be the place. Though phenomenal conditions were found up high,…
My Own Little World – Flashing The Thrill Is Gone (M4+, WI4) & The Matrix (M4, WI4-), Lessons Learned & Conditions Report – Hyalite Canyon, MT (2.18-2.19, 2022)
After belaying Brian Emory on his first coveted red-point of “The Thrill” just seven days before, I returned with Scott Melin to attempt an “on-sight” lead. We climbed for two days at the Unnamed Wall and Mummy Cooler Areas, ticking ascents on Mummy II, The Matrix, Feeding The Cat, The Fat One and of course,…
Mission Mentality – Skiing the Bowling Alley – Teton Canyon, WY (02.13.22)
The “Bowling Alley” is a 2,600 foot technical ski descent on the north aspect of Teton Canyon’s Treasure Mountain. After a month of minimal snow I hoped this funky, elusive and likewise rarely descended line could be hiding some of the last untouched powder on the west slope of the Tetons. I scored, but not…
Hyalite Fever – First WI-4 Flash, “The Thrill Is Gone” (M4, WI4) & Conditions Report – Hyalite Canyon, MT (2.10-2.11, 2022)
Breaking news: Our Teton snowpack has achieved “grim” status – but luckily it’s remained damn cold. Instead of futzing around on skis, Brian Emory and I took off to Bozeman for some mid-week ice climbing. I managed to lead & flash two WI-4’s, my first at the grade, and Brian sent his long time project,…
Untracked Powder in the Symmetry Couloir – Symmetry Spire/Storm Point Area – Grand Teton N.P. (02.06.22)
The Symmetry Couloir, as defined in Connor Miller’s Black Book, is the large avalanche path directly south of Symmetry Spire, north of Storm Point, on the opposite shore of Jenny Lake. On February 6th, after almost a month of minimal to no snow, Chase Krumholz and I set off for this obscure line in hopes…
North with New Friends – Unexpected Powder on Leeks Peak (USGS 10,333′) – Grand Teton N.P. (02.04.22)
Leeks Peak (USGS Peak 10,333′) is the first highpoint on the south side of Colter Canyon in Grand Teton National Park. A long approach across Jackson Lake and a lack of prominent striking terrain steers most day trippers away, but when the snow in the core range is tracked to hell, peaks like Leeks begin…
Quality Quarantine – Middle Teton – North Ridge & NW Ice Couloir (5.6, AI2), East Face Ski Descent – Grand Teton N.P. (1.30.22)
The North Face of the Middle Teton holds two classic alpine routes in a commanding setting, the North Ridge (5.6, rock) and the Northwest Ice Couloir (5.6, AI2, steep snow). The two can be linked together to form a fusion technical mountaineering route popular with winter climbers. The East Face is one of the Fifty…
But Where Are We? – Veiled Peak – North Ridge (4th) & NE Face Ski Descent – Grand Teton N.P. (1.16.21)
Veiled Peak is the most remote and least traveled 11,000 foot peak in the core Teton Range. Tucked far behind Mount Wister and standing at 11,315 feet, Veiled offers a rugged adventure to skiers and alpinists with an apt for big miles. The North Ridge is a technical scrambling alternative to the intricate and intimidating…
January on the Grand – Ford-Stettner Couloir, Grand Teton – GTNP, WY (01.19.22)
The Ford-Stettner route on the Grand Teton is arguably the range’s most classic and sought ski mountaineering descent. On January 19th, 2022, I completed my second successful climb and ski descent of the Ford-Stettner, this time with a brand new partner. In classic Grand Teton fashion we battled copious unknowns, learned many lessons and returned…
Deceptive in Many Ways – Skiing the Crooked Thumb Couloir – Teewinot Mountain, GTNP (1.13.22)
The Crooked Thumb Couloir is the prominent avalanche path directly north of Teewinot Mountain’s classic East Face line. The couloir tops out at 11,600 feet on the mountain’s north ridge, and despite looking benign from below, drops over 2,500 vertical feet with several tight sections of 40+ degree fall line skiing. Sadly, my camera is…
Awakening the Sleeping Dragon – A Remote Triggered Deep Slab Avalanche in the Tetons (12.27.21)
On December 27th 2021, I remotely triggered an avalanche of serious destructive magnitude while traversing a north-to-south ridgeline, at approximately 9,600 feet in the west Teton backcountry, on skis. The deep persistent slab avalanche broke with a 6-10 foot crown, ran 1,400 feet, uprooted many trees and failed on the “December 5th weak layer”. Read…
Near Miss – An Avalanche Survival Story – Broken Thumb Couloir – Grand Teton N.P. (01.26.20)
First and foremost, it is with a heavy heart that I solemnly offer my condolences to the family of Matthew Brien, a 33 year old Jackson local taken by the mountains far too early. 2021 was undoubtedly one of the toughest years for snow stability in the mountain west. February was the worst – haunted…
Prospector Falls (IV, WI4) – Grand Teton N.P. – First Ice of the Year! (12.2021)
Prospector Falls, also known as “Raven” or “Raven Crack” Falls, is about as classic as they come for ice climbs in Grand Teton National Park. The striking 200 foot main cascade is visible from the easily reached Phelps Lake Overlook, a favorite sight with early winter tourists. The whole route is four pitches, about 400-500…
Sending 5.11 – Five Things I Learned in My First Year of Climbing
One year ago (Sept. 2020) I bought my first pair of climbing shoes. My cardinal goal was simple – 5.11 by day 365. By month 11 the chains were clipped, and along the way I learned many lessons. From sport to trad, alpine faces to lowland boulders, I pushed my limits. This article is a…
Fossil Mountain & The Ice Cave Couloir – Waist Deep November Pow & The State of the Teton Snowpack (Nov. 2021)
Fossil Mountain is a remote 10,921 foot peak located deep in the central Teton Range. The Ice Cave Couloir is a short, steep and seldom skied couloir that will only be relevant to enthusiasts of the obscure. While hardly worthy of its’ own mission, the “Ice Cave” made a great addition to Carl Osterburg and…
Teewinot Mountain – Southeast Couloir – A Slushy Summer Mess, and A Near Fatal Miss – Grand Teton N.P. (May 2019)
The Southeast Couloir of Teewinot Mountain is an often overlooked alternative to the highly sought East Face route. Topping out at 11,600 feet on the southernmost shoulder, the 600 foot couloir starts narrow, finishes wide and maintains a steady slope angle in the mid-forty degree* range. Despite impressive views of the Grand Teton and a…
Loving Life in the Amor A’ Vida Couloir – South Teton – GTNP, WY (Apr. 2018)
The Amor A’ Vida Couloir is an ultra-classic Teton ski mountaineering objective on the south face of the South Teton. The full technical descent into Avalanche Canyon is nearly 3,000 feet – the first 900 on a vast and airy alpine face, and the latter 2,000 in a continuous, unique and especially aesthetic couloir.
The Moonwalk Couloir (TR, Jan. 2018), and Other West Face Lines – Peak 25 Short – Grand Teton N.P.
The Moonwalk Couloir is located on the west-north-west side of 25 Short (USGS Peak 9975′) in Grand Teton National Park – a more committing and exciting alternative to the commonly skied Chute the Moon and Turkey Chute Couloirs. The line rarely (if ever) fills in from the top, requiring a mild but exposed down-climb that…
Skiing the East Face of Teewinot – By the Skin of Our Teeth (03.01.20)
Rising a staggering 6,000 feet directly from the foothills of Grand Teton National Park, the East Face of Teewinot Mountain is a prized ski mountaineering descent sought far and wide. Instead of the usual Teton technical couloir shenanigans, the East Face resembles primetime descents in the Montana Rockies and High Sierra – steep bowl skiing…
The Undercover Giant – Skiing the East Face of Mount Wister (Feb. 2020)
During a high pressure cycle in late February 2020, Sam Johnson and I set our sights to Mount Wister, the criminally overlooked 11,455 foot giant lurking deep in the heart of Avalanche Canyon, Grand Teton National Park. The East Face is the peak’s test-piece descent, requiring a long (for the Tetons) approach and several thousand…
Knee Deep on Nez Perce – The Sliver and East Hourglass Couloirs (Mar. 2019)
On a bitterly cold March 2019 morning, John Walker and I set off to attempt the “Nez Perce Trifecta” – skiing the Sliver, East Hourglass and West Hourglass Couloirs in a single push – a Teton ski mountaineering classic. We didn’t quite hit the mark. High winds, deep snow and sub-zero temperatures pushed us towards…
The Deadliest Route in the Tetons – The East Face of Teewinot Mountain – Grand Teton N.P. (Aug. 2021)
The East Face of Teewinot Mountain is the deadliest route in Grand Teton National Park. But why? After my third lap on the 12,326 foot beauty, I believe I have a good idea. This article doubles as both a trip report and a discussion of “mountaineering in the information era” – a.k.a. 2021
Undeniably Airy – A Free Solo Ascent of The Grand Teton’s Exum Ridge – Grand Teton N.P. (07.30.21)
In the last week of July 2021, I completed a bucket list free-solo ascent of the ultra-classic Exum Ridge route on Wyoming’s second tallest peak, the Grand Teton.
Ropeless on the Grand Teton – An Owen-Spalding Free Solo – Grand Teton N.P. (Sept. 2018)
In September of 2018, I completed my first climb and free-solo of the Grand Teton via the Owen-Spalding Route. Here’s the story of what at the time was my most monumental and perspective shifting experience in these great mountains.
Redemption on Cloudveil Dome – East Ridge (4th-5.4) – Grand Teton N.P. (06.2021)
The East Ridge of Cloudveil Dome should be a Teton classic. From steep snow to high quality rock this route is the perfect half day adventure or early season training objective.
A South Garnet Ski Traverse… In June – Cloudveil Dome, S. Teton, Peak 12,295, Cave Couloir – Grand Teton N.P. (06.2021)
June 11th was likely my last ski day of the 2021 season. Andrew Grasso and I teamed up for a traverse of Cloudveil Dome, the South Teton and a few couloirs/peaks in between – savoring the last scraps of winter.
My First Teton Classic – Middle Teton – East Face/Glacier Route – Grand Teton N.P. (Apr. 2018)
Refurbished and re-posted from my old blog, this is the 2018 story (and relevant beta) from a solo journey to conquer my first Teton classic, the East Face of the Middle Teton.
Teton Tested – Icelantic Natural 101 – The Ski Mountaineer’s Quiver Killer
The Natural 101 from Icelantic Skis is the ski mountaineer’s quiver killer. Light enough to climb the Grand Teton and tackle multi-peak traverses, but burly enough to dispatch thin couloirs, bushy June exits and rocky October strike missions, this ski can handle quite literally anything. Introduction Lightweight or Durable? Do We Need to Compromise? In…
The Unassuming Static Peak – East Face Ski Descent – Grand Teton N.P. (May 2021)
On May 19th, 2021, Drew Grasso and I set off for what is in my opinion, one of the best corn skiing runs in Grand Teton National Park. I love Static Peak, and you should too!
Three Shades (and Ski Descents!) of Buck Mountain – East Face – Grand Teton N.P.
3 descents – 3 seasons – 3 sets of beta – 3 stories. If you are eyeing up this Teton classic, here’s the skinny – From powder to ice, “cornslush” and beyond.
A Grand Attempt – “The Art of the Turn Around” – The Grand Teton and Nez Perce’s West Hourglass Couloir – Grand Teton N.P. (May 2021)
On May 9th 2021, Carl Osterburg and I attempted to ski the Grand Teton. Faced with dangerous conditions, we decided to turn around. This decision could have saved our lives.
Tales of a First Time Canyoneer – Baptist Draw and Chute Canyon – San Rafael Swell, Utah
In October 2020 Bobbi Clemmer and I dipped into our first respective slot canyon, Baptist Draw in Utah’s San Rafael Swell. A story about mind control, redemption and the wondrous world of slot canyoneering
Up To Our Heads – “Fat Man’s Misery” Canyon – Canyoneering – Orderville, Utah
On April 19th, 2021, Bobbi Clemmer and I tried our hands at the West Fork of Fat Man’s Misery, a remote slot canyon requiring multiple rappels and water crossings just outside Zion National Park
8 Days – 212 Miles – An Unsupported Journey on the John Muir Trail
In 7 days and 21 hours, I hiked all 212 miles of the John Muir Trail, entirely unsupported, from Yosemite National Park to the summit of Mount Whitney. A life-altering journey through the “Range of Light” (Repost, 2019)
The Skillet – Mount Moran – Last of the “Big Seven” – Grand Teton N.P. (03.2021)
Mount Moran’s Skillet Glacier is not only a “50 Classic Ski Descent” of North America, but also marks the end of my three year journey to ski all the skyline peaks of the Teton Range.
Mount Owen – A Winter Summit and Ski Descent – Koven Route (5.3), East Face and Diagonal Couloir – Grand Teton N.P. (03.02.21)
On March 5th 2021, Sam Johnson and I had one of our wildest ski mountaineering experiences on Mount Owen, the second tallest peak of the Teton Range, which sees very few winter ascents.
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Ten Thousand Too Far 