Back on the Road – Fingertrip (5.7/5.8, 4p, 400′) – Tahquitz Rock – Idyllwild, CA (11.30.25)
On November 30th Bobbi and I dusted off the Thanksgiving rust with a quick lap on the Tahquitz moderate classic, Fingertrip.
Rage Against the Machine – Adventure Punks (5.10d, 5p, 550′) – Challenger Wall – Red Rocks NCA, NV (11.13.25)
Adventure Punks is a rarity for Red Rocks, with five straight crack pitches, little face climbing and no lead bolts. The first pitch is 30+ meters of the best flake laybacking you’ll ever do, but weighs in at the eye catching grade of 5.10b R/X, thereby limiting traffic on this otherwise classic line.
Sick! – Edge Dressing via Chasing Shadows (5.10b/c, 4p, 350′) – Mescalito – Red Rocks NCA, NV (11.10.25)
On Tuesday November 10th, 2025, Bobbi Clemmer, Joy Seward and I climbed Edge Dressing via Chasing Shadows on Mescalito Dome. Woah – what a final pitch!
An Introductory Progression to Mixed Climbing & Drytooling in Hyalite Canyon (2025)
Montana’s revered Hyalite Canyon is one of the best North American venues for learning mixed climbing and drytooling, two invaluable skills for serious winter climbers. Below are my five favorite beginner mixed routes in Hyalite, presented as a progression culminating with the “best single pitch mixed climb in the United States” – The Thrill Is…
“A Route For Those Seeking Out A Journey” – Rock Warrior (5.10b R, 6p, 800′) – Black Velvet Wall, Red Rocks NCA, NV (11.08.25)
On Sunday November 8th I climbed my 2025 dream route, onsighting every pitch of Rock Warrior (5.10b, 6 pitches, 800′) on the storied Black Velvet Wall of Red Rocks Canyon. I was joined by Bobbi Clemmer and Joy Seward, who both proudly flashed the route.
Worthy – Bourbon Street (5.8+, 6 pitches, 700′) via Raindance (5.10a) – Whiskey Peak – Red Rock NCA, NV (11.07.25)
Joy Seward joined the Alpine Peanut and I for a week of climbing in Red Rocks. On November 7th we kicked the trio trip off with Bourbon Street, a varied 700 foot route on the north face of Whiskey Peak, by way of the excellent 5.10a single pitch variation Raindance.
A Vertical Geology Lesson – Lotta Balls (5.8, II, 420′) – First Creek Canyon, Red Rocks NCA, NV (11.06.25)
On November 6th, 2025, Bobbi Clemmer and I scored a quick lap on the unique Lotta Balls in First Creek Canyon. The namesake pitch was perhaps the most bizarre I’ve climbed anywhere.
Two Days in Whitney Portal – Becky Route (5.9, III) and Nimbus (5.10c, III) – Whitney Portal, CA (Nov. 2025)
On our way to Death Valley from a tortoise course in Ridgecrest, Bobbi Clemmer and I impulsively dipped our toes into the renowned multi-pitch granite of Whitney Portal. In two short days we climbed the Beckey Route on El Segundo Buttress, and Nimbus on Whitney Portal Buttress. Both were excellent.
Run For Your Life – A Trip Report and Essay on Traditional Climbing Ethics (October 2025)
On October 30th I redpointed the notorious Run For Your Life (5.10b R) in Joshua Tree National Park, after taking a huge fall from the final move 24 hours earlier. This article is a trip report in essay form, examining the polarizing topic of traditional climbing ethics.
3, 2, 1, Liftoff – Spaceshot (5.6, C2, IV, 1200’) – Leaning Wall – Zion Nat. Park, Utah (10.18.25)
Spaceshot is one of the classic moderate clean aid routes and introductory big walls of North America, following a continuous 900 foot crack system in the heart of Zion National Park.
Place Less Gear to Climb Harder: 3 Lessons From Climbing My Hardest Trad Route, Ground Up, Onsight & Runout – Seams Heady 5.11b PG
Seams Heady is a renowned 5.11b “PG” trad seam in the glacial polished granite wonderland of Teton Canyon. In 2024 I completed a ground-up redpoint with no previous inspection or beta. I learned three enlightening lessons through the process.
Addendum: Irene’s Arete Variations, and a Direct Start! – Disappointment Peak – GTNP, WY (06.19.25)
On Thursday June 19th, 2025, I climbed Irene’s Arete with new-to-the-Tetons desert coworker Kenzi Stemp, including a two pitch direct start which has surely been climbed before, but is undocumented and often skipped. Higher, we explored a few harder variations with pleasant rewards. This article will focus solely on the variations we climbed, and others…
A Thirty Foot Whipper! – The Snazette (5.10c, 2p), and finish via The Snaz (5.10a, IV) – Cathedral Rock – GTNP, WY (06.21.25)
The Snazette is an especially incredible two pitch 5.10c variation to one of the Teton’s already great routes, The Snaz (5.10a, IV).
One Two Punch – The Consolation (5.9, 7 pitches, 800′) – Tahquitz Rock – Idyllwild, CA (09.20.25)
On Saturday September 20th, 2025, I climbed another long and classic Tahquitz crack line with new partner Simon Lee. The Consolation offered several pitches of quintessential granite jamming, a particularly strenuous crux, and a few spectacular exit pitches on the venerable Whodunnit (5.9, III).
Lean Back and Pull – El Camino Real (5.10a, 6 pitches, 500′) – Tahquitz Rock – Idyllwild, CA (09.14.25)
The third pitch of El Camino Real is “one of the great layback cracks of Idyllwild”
Lead Rope Solo Vol. 2 – Dave’s Deviation (5.9, 4p, 500′) & The Jam Crack (5.8) – Tahquitz Rock – Idyllwild, CA (09.07.25)
Bob Gaines dubbed the first pitch of Dave’s Deviation one of the best finger cracks in Idyllwild. The Jam Crack is a classic Royal Robbins grunt. I lead rope soloed both routes on September 7th, 2025, and took my first LRS lead fall! Spoiler alert: I’m still alive.
LEAD ROPE SOLO – El Whampo, Direct Start (5.9, III, 800′) – Tahquitz Rock – Idyllwild, CA (09.06.25)
On Saturday September 6th, 2025, I lead rope soloed my first multi-pitch route! El Whampo (5.7, II), and it’s direct start via El Grandote (5.9, III), are respective classics on the legendary Tahquitz Rock.
Vertical Spelunking – Tunnel Vision (5.7+ R, 6 pitches, 770′) – Angel Food Wall – Red Rocks NCA, NV (08.30.25)
Tunnel Vision is the most unique route I’ve encountered in my climbing career. Four pitches of wild chimneys and wide cracks lead to the namesake “tunnel pitch”, a 30 meter diagonal bombay chimney which passes through an incredible varnished tunnel almost dark enough for a headlamp. This is three dimensional climbing at its finest, and…
Touching the Holds of Legend – Whodunnit (5.9, III, 800′) – Tahquitz Rock – Idyllwild, CA (08.16.25)
Whodunnit is a physical, varied, sustained, and historical quest up the plumb line of Tahquitz Rock. Since it’s first ascent in 1957 by Joe Fritschen and Royal Robbins, this route has been climbed by thousands, including about every United States climbing legend imaginable, and is revered as possibly the best route on Tahquitz. A topo…
Underground Classic – Sour Mash (5.10a, 7 pitches, 700′) – Black Velvet Wall – Red Rocks NCA, NV (07.26.25)
Our last Red Rocks route before leaving Vegas for the summer – Bobbi Clemmer and I climbed the highly regarded Sour Mash. With three pitches of 5.10a and two pitches of 5.9, this spectacular route is sustained at the grade.
For the Muffin – Frogland (5.8, 6 pitches, 700′) – Whiskey Peak – Red Rocks NCA, NV (07.26.25)
Frogland is the premier moderate mutli-pitch adventure on Whiskey Peak. The rock is superb, climbing varied, descent streamlined, and difficulty generally soft for the grade.
Summer Strike – Dark Shadows (5.8, 4 pitches, 350′) – Mescalito – Red Rocks NCA, NV (07.14.25)
Alex Honnold himself called Dark Shadows “the best 5.8 in Red Rocks” – stout praise. The full route is 10 pitches long, and climbs to the top of Mescalito via several adventurous upper pitches. We climbed only the first four pitches, a common abbreviation which captures the steepest and best rock climbing closest to the…
Beatdown – The Challenger (5.11a, 6 pitches, 700′) – Challenger Wall – Red Rocks, NV (07.10.25)
The Challenger is an unrelenting and sustained 5.11a rock climb, with five of six pitches clocking 5.10c or above. It’s a beast – and a classic.
Clinging to the Edge – Risky Business (5.10c R, 4 Pitches, 400′) – Mescalito – Red Rocks, NV (07.09.25)
Risky Business ascends some of the BEST rock in Red Rocks – an improbable and bold traditional climb connecting discontinuous flakes and seams via runout face climbing on the impressive vertical varnished face left of the equally famous Dark Shadows (5.8). Every pitch offers R rated climbing, flawless stone, and exciting movement in an epic…
New Scenery – The Nightcrawler (5.10+, 5 pitches, 445′) – Red Rocks, NV (07.07.25)
On July 7th I climbed the Nightcrawler, a spectacular five pitch 5.10+ on the Brownstone Wall in Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. The route is claimed by many to be the best 5.10 in this world-class climbing destination – stout praise.
First Descent of the North Face of Wanda Pinnacle (“Air Traffic Control”) – Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY (05.01.25)
On May 1st, 2025, I made the first ski descent of the North Face of Wanda Pinnacle. This was my first Teton “first descent” – it went swimmingly.
One Turn Too Many – Southeast Couloir – South Teton – Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY (05.01.25)
The South Teton’s Southeast Couloir is one of the steeper Teton ski descents. Considering it’s remarkable roadside visibility, it sees very few suitors. Now I know why.
Sawtooths 2025 Part Three – South Face of Williams Peak – Sawtooth Range, ID (04.21.25)
On April 21st, 2025, Bobbi Clemmer and I skied the classic South Face of 10,636 foot Williams Peak in Idaho’s Sawtooth Range. With 1,600 feet of consistently pitched fall-line shred, and 3,500 some feet of skiing in full, this must be one of the finest corn descents in the Gem State. We had perfect conditions.
Connecting the Dots – Direct South Face of the Dike Pinnacle – Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY (04.29.25)
On April 29th, 2025, I skied a rare line on the South Face of the Dike Pinnacle. I’d been dreaming of connecting the dots on this improbable face for many years.
Sawtooths 2025 Part Two – Skiing the McGown Triple: Little McGown Couloir, North Couloir & KLB Chute in a Day – Sawtooth Range, ID (04.20.25)
On April 20th I skied the “McGown Triple”, linking the Little McGown Couloir, “50 Classic” North Couloir, and KLB Chute for a 4,500 foot day of excellent steep spring skiing on McGown Peak. If I wasn’t a McDonald’s hater, I would call it the McTriple. Perhaps it has an official name.
Sawtooths 2025 Part One: Northeast Face of Mystery Mountain – Sawtooth Range, ID (04.19.25)
On Saturday April 19th, Bobbi Clemmer and I skied the Northeast Face of Mystery Mountain in Idaho’s revered Sawtooth Range. We spent three days in the Sawtooths – my first ski trip outside the Tetons in many years.
High Times with Good Company – The Jaw, and North Couloir of Symmetry Spire – Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY (04.13.25)
On Saturday April 13th I had the pleasure of skiing the classic East Face of The Jaw with Bobbi Clemmer, Bailey Haus and Carl Osterburg. That’s right, Carl’s back on the blog. Upon exiting we tagged the North Couloir of Symmetry Spire, a really neat, relatively tight and seldom skied hallway funneling into Hanging Canyon.
![Planning for Late Season Ski Mountaineering: Weather Forecasts [opinions]](https://tenthousandtoofar.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/bannon-north-face-wm-4.jpg?w=1200)
Planning for Late Season Ski Mountaineering: Weather Forecasts [opinions]
Come April, May, and June in North America, reliable weather forecasts for ski mountaineering are fickle, and the parameters for good ski conditions tighten. Here’s my strategy for planning a great day out.
Sneak Attack – Northeast Face of Mount Woodring – Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY (04.06.25)
The Northeast Face of Mount Woodring is an unassuming, yet intricate and at times rather severe, 3,000 foot ski descent tucked away in the deep recesses of Leigh Canyon.
Visions of Baffin – Powder in the Southwest Couloir – Mount Moran – Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY (04.03.25)
On April 3rd we skied the Southwest Couloir on Mount Moran in deep powder conditions. With 4,500 feet of consistently pitched fall-line skiing, nearly 6,000 feet in full, this colossal couloir is Teton royalty.
Control is an Illusion – The Otterbody Snowfield – Grand Teton – GTNP, WY (03.30.25)
The Otterbody Snowfield is a 1,700 foot fairy tale ski mountaineering descent, 7,000 feet in full, on the East Face of the Grand Teton. On March 30th, 2025, I had the pleasure of descending the route with Hayden Evans and Julian Winston.
Returning to the Eagle Scout (WI5) – Reflections from Four 2025 Ascents – Teton Canyon, WY
The Eagle Scout (a.k.a. Mack-Tyson) pillar is the premier single pitch ice climb of the Teton Range, with “more than 100 feet of vertical or overhanging climbing” and a grade ranging from WI5- to WI6R. Having not climbed the Eagle Scout in two years, I thought I would add some notes from the perspective of…
Sandstone Ice 2025 Part Three: Hidden Haven (WI4, II) – Parowan Canyon, Utah (01.28.2025)
Hidden Haven (WI4, II) is a unique four pitch ice adventure, ascending a tight slot canyon feature in Parowan Canyon, Utah. Bobbi Clemmer and I climbed the route on our way home from Joshua Tree – January 28th, 2025.
A Pillar That Forms Twice A Decade – Bingo World (WI5-6) Onsight – Hyalite Canyon, MT (03.08.25)
On March 8th, 2025, Bobbi Clemmer and and I climbed Bingo World (WI5-6), one Hyalite Canyon’s most difficult, notorious and ephemeral freestanding pillars. The route is known to form about twice a decade.
REPOST: “Live To Ski”—Steve Romeo, TetonAT, and the Power of Shared Information (from the-high-route.com)
I recently had an article published by The High Route, focusing on TetonAT.com founder and local legend, Steve Romeo, my personal journey to ski mountaineering, and how Steve and I’s world intertwined.
Slideshow this Thursday at 6:00PM in Driggs, ID
This Thursday (March 6th, 2025) I will be giving a slideshow presentation on modern ski mountaineering in the Teton Range. Read on for more details.
Commitment – Joshua Tree 2025 (Part One, Week One)
Bobbi Clemmer and I returned to Joshua Tree National Park for our second annual two week winter escape, where we climbed… and climbed… and climbed. This article is split into two parts, and features a brief creative piece on commitment as well as a traditional trip report.
Sandstone Ice 2025 Part Two: Joe’s Valley – The Donorcicle (WI5) and Deadbolt (WI4) – Utah (Jan. 11 & 12, 2025)
A day of high-desert ice climbing in the stunning Joe’s Valley, including an ascent of the revered Donorcicle (WI5) – a 100 foot freestanding pillar.
Sandstone Ice 2025 Part One: Huntington Canyon – Coat’s Corner (WI4) and Inspired By Gravity (WI4-5) – Utah (Jan. 11 & 12, 2025)
Coat’s Corner (WI4) and Inspired By Gravity (WI4-5) are the two classic climbs of Huntington Canyon, an overlooked ice venue nestled into the heart of Utah’s high desert.
Rusty’s Smears? Two Lesser Known South Fork Ice Climbs – Teton Canyon, WY (Dec. 2024 & Jan. 2025)
Over December and January I climbed and equipped two new or seldom visited routes in the South Fork of Teton Canyon that may be “Rusty’s Smears”, with three different partners.
Consolation Prize – North Face of Mount Borah (AI2, 5.4, III) – Lost River Range, ID (12.05.24)
On December 5th, 2024, Vinny Gwinn and I climbed the North Face of Mount Borah (AI2, 5.4, III) after retreating from the nearby Psycho Therapy (5.9+, M6, WI4, III) due to a lack of ice.
From The Archives: Joshua Tree 2024
An unpublished account from a two week trip to Joshua Tree National Park in January and February 2024. Two new crack climbers set to work in splitter granite paradise, covering as many moderate classics as possible, and getting sandbagged along the way. A full tick list and recommendations is included for new Josh climbers. A…
Teton Canyon Ice Report & Landslide (WI4, II) Trip Report (December 14th, 2024)
Surf’s up in Teton Canyon. On December 14th I climbed Landslide (WI4, II) with Bobbi Clemmer and Brian Emory. Alongside this very short trip report is a full ice report from the canyon, where most routes are in good shape.
“Not Many Have Skied This Line” – South Couloir – Albright Peak – GTNP, WY (ARCHIVES – 03.15.2024)
The South Couloir of Albright Peak, not to be confused with the massive “Southeast Couloir” drainage running directly to Phelps Lake, is a 3,000 foot fall-line descent with a variety of terrain, including a quirky approach, exposed entry, and a few tight chokes that may or may not beckon a rope.
Still Classic – Prospector Falls (WI4, II) with Bobbi! – Death Canyon, GTNP (11.24.24)
The Alpine Peanut has become an ice climber, so we headed to arguably Grand Teton National Park’s most classic winter ice route – Prospector Falls. We worked our way up the main flow at solid WI4.
Early Ice in Teton Canyon (November 9th-21st, 2024) – Left Ghost (WI4), The Birds (WI3) and Conditions Report
A few photos and notes from three successful early season ice climbing days in Teton Canyon. The canyon is coming into shape well. A full conditions report from all TC climbs at the bottom.
It’s Time! – High Fidelity (WI3+, M4, II) – Hyalite Canyon, MT (11.17.24)
High Fidelity is a classic early season multi-pitch ice and mixed adventure in Hyalite Canyon, understated at the WI3+, M4 grade. Our thin conditions produced a climb closer to WI4, M5+. I was joined by the Alpine Peanut herself, a proud effort for her third day ever ice climbing. Winter is here!!
2024 GTNP Send Off – Reticent Wall (5.8, III) and Baxter’s Pinnacle (5.9, II) – GTNP, WY (10.26 & 10.27, 2024)
On October 26th and 27th, 2024, Bobbi Clemmer and I did a Saturday/Sunday double dip in Grand Teton National Park, climbing the Reticent Wall (5.8, III) on Saturday and joining Lainey Fellows and Will Dietz for a classic Baxter’s Pinnacle lap on Sunday. It’s been another wonderful, intense and memorable alpine climbing season in Grand…
Ship’s Prow Triple – Cardiac Aretes, Annals Of Time and Dihedral Of Horrors in a Day (5.9, IV) – Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY (10.17.24)
On October 17th Lainey Fellows and I linked Cardiac Aretes, Annals Of Time and Dihedral Of Horrors for an absolutely classic day on three of Death Canyon’s finest 5.9 routes – The Ship’s Prow Triple.
A Paradigm Shift at the Elephant’s Perch – Astro Elephant (5.10, IV) and Super Slab (5.9, II) – Sawtooth Range, ID (10.10 & 10.11, 2024)
A manic two day strike to “Idaho’s El Capitan” with Jed Porter. Astro Elephant was astronomical – Jed called it Steck-Salathe and Epinephrine caliber – I’ve never climbed anything quite like it. On the way we climbed an excellent unnamed 7 pitch 5.9 slab on the Super Slab. The Elephant’s Perch is a monolithic 1,000…
Birthday Scrambles – Bell Mountain NW Face (4.0) and White Mountain SW Ridge (3.0) – Lemhi & Salmon River Ranges, ID (Oct. 4-6, 2024)
We’ve been climbing in the Tetons all summer – it was time to head west. Bell Mountain’s Northwest Face stole the show as an excellent sustained fourth class scramble on a remote and gigantic Idaho Peak, and White Mountain brought a long enduro ridge traverse to the tallest peak in the Salmon River Range.
A First Ascent in the Tetons – Chilly Dogs (5.10- PG13, III, 7 pitches) – Storm Point – GTNP, WY (2024)
On July 4th, 2024, Chase Krumholz and I completed the first ascent of Chilly Dogs (5.10-, III), a six pitch extension of Hot Dogs (5.9, I) on the south face of Storm Point. The route features nice selection of exciting and adventurous pitches in an accessible area, with a streamlined descent.
Chasing Beyer – Vas Defrens (5.9+ R, IV) – Cathedral Rock – Grand Teton National Park, WY (09.21.24)
On Saturday September 21st, 2024, Greg Gwinn and I attempted to repeat the long forgotten Vas Defrens on Cathedral Rock, a 1000 foot “5.9 R” established by the legendary Jim Beyer and Buck Tilly in 1978.
Progress – Revisiting The Snaz (5.10-, IV) – Cathedral Rock – Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY (09.15.24)
On September 15th, 2024, Chris Morelli and I thrutched, wormed and grunted up the Snaz, an old-school, mega classic, ten pitch 5.10- on the commanding 1000 foot wall of Cathedral Buttress. I led all the crux pitches, and eight out of nine total pitches, which provided a far different challenge than swinging leads on the…
Peanut Swings Leads on the Buckingham Ridge (5.7, III) – Middle Teton – Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY (09.08.24)
On September 8th, 2024, Bobbi Clemmer and I climbed the classic Southeast “Buckingham” Ridge on the 12,809 foot Middle Teton via an overnight camp in the South Fork of Garnet Canyon. It was Bobbi’s first time swinging leads on an alpine climb, at pretty darn high elevation no less.
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Moving Light and Fast on the Grand Teton’s Upper Exum Ridge (with a 30M rope!) – Notes from my Third Ascent – Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY (08.15.24)
On August 15th Drew Grasso and I scurried the Upper Exum Ridge (5.5, II) for his first, and my thirteenth, Grand Teton summit. This was my third time on the route, but only the second with a rope. On this day we aimed to find the perfect balance between minimalism and security for a roped…
Florida vs. Alpine – A Two-Day Journey to Cube Point (5.5, II) – GTNP, WY (08.09/08.10, 24)
On August 10th, 2024, Bobbi Clemmer, myself and my visiting-from-Florida sister Lauren climbed the classic Cube Point, a 9,800 foot tower on the East Ridge of Symmetry Spire, via an overnight camp in the lovely Hanging Canyon. The East Ridge of Cube is a popular Teton classic, offering five pitches of rock up to 5.5…
Alone on the Dike – Dike Route Solo (5.6, IV) – Dike Pinnacle/Middle Teton – Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY (08.03.24)
On August 3rd I trotted into Garnet Canyon and soloed the should-be-classic Dike Route on the Dike Pinnacle. While the climbing itself was excellent, the direct descent into Garnet Canyon from the summit of the Dike Pinnacle nearly killed me… metaphorically… of course.
Dipping My Toes – Chouinard Ridge Free Solo (5.5, II) – Middle Teton – GTNP, WY (07.21.24)
I’ve been battling a partial rotator cuff tear this summer, so I’ve been dipping my toes into the dark arts of rope-less climbing as a way to score significant mileage on easy terrain. The Chouinard Ridge provides a 1,600′ vertical adventure on clean-as-a-whistle Middle Teton granite.
98% of a Cloudveil Traverse (5.6, IV) – Grand Teton National Park, WY (07.13.24)
On Saturday July 13th Bobbi Clemmer and I attempted a Cloudveil Traverse, a classic seven peak link up following the skyline ridge connecting the South Teton to Nez Perce. Due to a few unexpected steep snow crossings and a critical route finding mistake by your’s truly we were forced to retreat 150 feet from the…
Grand Wall Topo and Southwest Face Routes – Teton Canyon, Wyoming (July 2024)
I finally got around to making a modern topo for the excellent multi-pitch rock climbs on the Southwest Face of Teton Canyon’s Grand Wall. As of July 2024 there are four routes on the Southwest Face, all with their own flare. Wild Kingdom (5.7) is likely the most popular, offering enjoyable climbing and good protection…
Revisiting Dihedral Of Horrors (5.9, II), and the 5.10 First Pitch Variation – Ship’s Prow – GTNP, WY (07.07.24)
On Sunday July 7th Bobbi Clemmer and I climbed the uber-classic Dihedral of Horrors including the seldom climbed first pitch 5.10 variation. Because DOH has been documented on 10K2Far before, this article serves mostly to touch on the underrated 5.10 variation that more folks should climb.
Back in the Park! – Blobular Oscillations (5.10- PG13) and Guide’s Wall (5.8, II) – Storm Point – GTNP, WY (06.31.24)
I was pretty psyched to flash Blobular Oscillations, a renowned runout 5.10- variation to the first pitch of Guide’s Wall, and thought it a good excuse to talk about our whole day. Guide’s Wall has never been covered on 10K2Far because it’s one of the few super well documented multi-pitch outings in GTNP, but maybe…
This Ain’t No Guide’s Wall – East Face, South Buttress (5.9+, III) – Table Mountain – GTNP, WY (06.23.24)
On Sunday June 23rd Justin Gilbert and I clawed up the equally remarkable and unexpectedly difficult 1961 South Buttress route on the 1400 foot East Face of Table Mountain. 10 pitches, 15 hours, 15 miles and 5000 vertical feet later we were slightly busted, but far more stoked.
Another Season Ender on the Grand Teton – Ford-Stettner Couloir – GTNP, WY (06.11.24)
My sixth ski descent of, and third consecutive year ending my ski season on, the Grand Teton. This time I was accompanied by first time Grand Teton skier Connor Reithmayr, and we caught the Ford Couloir in nothing short of perfect corn.
JUNE CORN! – Table Mountain and Peak 10,650 (Video TR) – Jedediah Smith Wilderness, WY (06.01.24)
A video trip report from June 1st, when Bobbi Clemmer and I enjoyed what can only be called a magical day of late spring corn skiing. We connected the North Bowl of Table Mountain and the West Ridge of Peak 10,650 for 7,000 feet of type one fun.
West Side Steeps – North Face of Mount Bannon – Jedediah Smith Wilderness, WY (05.31.24)
On Friday May 31st I skied the North and South Faces of Mount Bannon in a pleasant eight hour yo-yo tour from Darby Canyon. The 1,000 foot North Face is a loose West Teton “classic” with some steeper than expected pitches and a free-ride feel.
Buck Triple Solo – Skiing the Bubble Fun, Newc and Northwest Couloirs in a Day – Buck Mountain – GTNP, WY (05.20.24)
On May 20th, 2024, I made the third descent of the “Buck Triple”, linking the Bubble Fun, Newc and Northwest Couloirs for a near 8,000 foot day of tremendous steep skiing on the north face of Buck Mountain. From what I can gather this is the first time the Buck Triple has been completed solo,…
A Quickie from Mount Woodring – Southwest Couloir Ski Descent – Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY (05.16.24)
On May 16th I spontaneously skied the relatively unknown Southwest Couloir on Mount Woodring after bailing from a different objective. What I found was top quality moderate ski mountaineering adventure on par with the Banana Couloir, Static Peak and Rockchuck Peak. Here’s a quick trip report.
May Corn With Bobbi! – East Face of Rockchuck Peak and South Face of Taylor Mountain – Teton Range, WY (May 11 & 12, 2024)
The Alpine Peanut remains motivated to earn her turns well into May. The weekend of May 11th and 12th we skied the East Face of Rockchuck Peak and one of her season projects, the South Face of Taylor Mountain, in perfect corn!
A Koven Couloir “Ski” Descent, and Reflections on Late Season North Aspect Ski Mountaineering – Mount Owen – GTNP, WY (05.03.24)
Hayden Evans and I “skied” the Koven Couloir after bailing on a different higher objective. It skied very poorly, as I always assumed it would after having climbed it many times over the past few years. Also, a few reflections on late season ski mountaineering on north facing aspects, and the volatility of spring storm…
Kinda Crushing, Kinda Cool – Southeast Couloir of Peak 11,840 – GTNP, WY (04.28.24)
A short trip report of a unique day summitting Peak 11,840 for my first time and skiing the seductive Southeast Couloir, after bailing from grander objectives due to foul weather.
Another Spontaneous Link-Up – Dike Pinnacle South Couloir, South Teton SE Face and Wanda Pinnacale NE Couloir (04.24.24)
On April 24th, 2024 I rose early and kept an open solo itinerary that resulted in a link-up of routes on the Dike Pinnacle, South Teton and Wanda Pinnacle. All three routes had been on my radar for years, and it was especially meaningful to link them in a single logical push.
Cracking The Code – Success in Mount Wister’s Northwest Couloir – GTNP, WY (04.21.24)
On our third attempt over two seasons Reed Finlay and I finally made a successful ski descent of Mount Wister’s Northwest Couloir. The line may be be small and obscure, but packs a mighty punch.
Solo Inspiration – Fairshare Tower Northeast Ridge, Sentinel Couloir and Tallboy Couloir Link-Up – GTNP, WY (04.14.24)
On April 14th I did an unexpected link-up, including a rare summit ski descent of Fairshare Tower’s Northeast Ridge, and the Sentinel (not Red Sentinel) and Tallboy Couloirs, some 7000 feet of excellent spring skiing.
It Just Keeps Going – West Couloir of Teewinot Mountain – GTNP, WY (04.11.24)
The West Couloir of Teewinot Mountain is a stellar 5000 foot technical ski adventure on the dark side of the Owen-Teewinot Cirque. On April 11th, 2024, Mike Parri and I caught this elusive line in excellent, nearly ski-through, spring powder conditions.
Edge Control – North Couloir of Peak 10,696 – GTNP, WY (04.07.24)
I’ve stared at this couloir nearing a decade – a beautiful winding dance down the improbable North Face of Peak 10,696. I naively kept skiing lower hoping the snow would get better… an exercise in edge control.
Reverence – Second Descent of the North Face of Mount Wister – GTNP, WY (04.04.24)
The North Face of Mount Wister was a visionary ski descent first accomplished by Adam Fabrikant, Billy Haas and Micheal Gardner in the spring of 2023. On April 4th, 2024 I made the second descent, and first solo descent, of this incredible line that will hopefully attract more eyes. This was one of my finest…
Threading The Needle – A Stormy Descent of the Bubble Fun Couloir – Buck Mountain – GTNP, WY (03.25.24)
The Bubble Fun Couloir is on the short list of most demanding steep ski descents in the Teton Range – an 1,100 foot masterpiece that holds 50 degrees for hundreds of feet, pushes 60 degrees in hallway width chokes, and hangs dramatically above Avalanche Canyon with an eerie 200+ foot exit cliff. The stuff of…
Ski Alpinism Vol. 2 – Direct South Ridge (5.7+, III) to Spooky Face Ski Descent – Nez Perce – GTNP, WY (03.20.24)
On Wednesday March 20th, Hayden Evans and I climbed the Direct South Ridge (5.7+, III) on 11,901 foot Nez Perce, and made a powdery ski descent of the North “Spooky” Face into the East Hourglass Couloir and Garnet Canyon, one day removed from a “calendar winter” ascent.
Ski Alpinism Vol. 1 – Irene’s Arete (5.8, III) to Spoon Couloir Ski Descent – Disappointment Peak – GTNP, WY (03.17.24)
On Sunday March 17th, 2024, Chase Krumholz and I played with some ski alpinism tactics – linking a climb of the famous Irene’s Arete (5.8, III) with ski descent of the classic Spoon Couloir on Disappointment Peak. Rock climbing with skis – get weird!
South Teton, The Scenic Way – A Northwest Couloir Ski Descent With Friends – GTNP, WY (03.09.24)
On March 9th, 2024, Bobbi and I were joined by three friendly Minnesotans for a long walk in the high alpine. Many people forget that a ski descent from 12,000+ feet in the Tetons actually can be mellow. This was also Bobbi’s first ski descent from above 12,000 feet, exactly one year to the week…
Totally Western – Painted Lady Couloir – Treasure Mountain – Teton Canyon, WY (02.29.24)
The Painted Lady is a rugged, seldom skied novelty descent on the west face of Treasure Mountain – a 2,200 foot descent that involves a gigantic 230+ foot rappel into a narrow slot, and a mandatory air over an ice fall… or epic butt slide. Something like canyoneering, on skis.
Subalpine Ski Mountaineering – Lost Boys, Treasure Mountain North Face – Teton Canyon, WY (02.25.24)
My second ski descent, first published on 10K2Far, of a unique, seldom skied, 2,500 foot fall-line adventure on the rugged north face of Treasure Mountain, involving a little rope work, with new partner Hayden Evans.
The Ghosts! – Right and Left (WI5 & WI4) – Teton Canyon, WY (01.05.24)
Last Friday Erik Boomer and I climbed the Right and Left Ghost Pillars in Teton Canyon, WI5 and WI4 respectively.
Still Classic – Round Two on Golden Tears (WI4+, III) – Wind River Range, WY (01.02.24)
Since returning from Christmas break in California, and still waiting for snow, it’s been all about the ice. Here’s a little report from the mega-classic Golden Tears (WI4+, III) with Erik Boomer. It’s in great shape right now.
Low Tide Ski Mountaineering – Okie’s Thorn Couloir – GTNP, WY (12.29.23)
On Friday I got out and enjoyed my first GTNP high country ski of the season in Okie’s Thorn Couloir, a unique and seldom visited line just northwest of the popular Dike Snowfield.
Two Lake Louise Ice Gully Variations – Wind River Range, WY (12.17.23)
On Sunday December 17th Erik Boomer and I climbed two variations to the standard and classic Lake Louise Ice Gully route in Wyoming’s Wind River Range. Since the Gully has been well documented on Ten Thousand Too Far, this article will focus primarily on the variations, which are both exciting and unique ways to experience…
Rockfall, Shoulder Tweaks and Snowy Slabs – Alpine Simulator (M4, III) – Garden Creek Gap, ID (12.13.23)
I returned to the Garden Creek Gap for the third time in 13 days to find the elusive Alpine Simulator route. Another wild quest up a 1200′ sea of river polished quartzite.
Lappin’ the Gap – Ghetto Simulator (M4, 5.7, III) – Garden Creek Gap, ID (12.07.23)
The Ghetto Simulator is a six pitch route on the west side of the North Face of Garden Creek Gap, most commonly climbed as a mixed route in winter. The climb is slightly less sustained, but no less fun, than the challenging routes on the central face.
An Unknowing First Ascent – Agri-Alpinism (M5+, III) – Garden Creek Gap, ID (12.01.23)
“The Gap” is an unlikely quartzite climbing area just south of Pocatello, Idaho, known for long winter mixed routes up to 1200 feet rising directly from the road. Jed Porter and I unknowingly climbed a first ascent while looking for the Alpine Simulator in a winter storm – thankfully, our route was excellent! We named…
Teton Canyon Ice Report (11.29.23)
A quick conditions report with photos from Teton Canyon on November 29th, 2023, with a few notes on GTNP route conditions. Today my partner and I biked into Teton Canyon in search of ice. We hiked to all the south facing climbs but didn’t find anything in climbable shape. The Landslide Pillar (Waterfall Wall Area)…
Wet Pillar Laps – Teewinot North Guillies Left (WI4+) – GTNP, WY (11.21.23)
A bike-ice-bike kickoff to the Grand Teton National Park ice season in Cascade Canyon- a proper pump before a Tofurky feast on Indigenous People’s Day.
Cerebral – A Rare Ascent of Styrofoam Boots (WI4+R, M3, III) – Sphinx Mountain, MT (11.17.23)
Styrofoam Boots, also known as Spinxinated and formally the “Unknown Route”, is an ephemeral gem that only forms “every decade or so” on the North Face of Sphinx Mountain. For us it was difficult and testing mixed climb of the highest quality – the route’s first ascent of the season and perhaps of many years.
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