Moving Light and Fast on the Grand Teton’s Upper Exum Ridge (with a 30M rope!) – Notes from my Third Ascent – Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY (08.15.24)

On August 15th Drew Grasso and I scurried the Upper Exum Ridge (5.5, II) for his first, and my thirteenth, Grand Teton summit. This was my third time on the route, but only the second with a rope. On this day we aimed to find the perfect balance between minimalism and security for a roped ascent. Here lies an exceedingly nerdy article oriented towards climbers, detailing our light rack and specific techniques for moving through this notoriously long 1000' route with a short 30 meter rope.

September 12, 2024 0

FULL Value – Durrance Direct to Upper Exum Ridge (Direct Exum Ridge) (5.7, IV) – Grand Teton – GTNP, WY (07.09.23)

The "Complete Exum" - "Full Exum" - "Direct Exum" - "Durrance Direct to Upper Exum" - whatever you want to call it, this 1,700 foot skyline route is one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America for a reason. You can see it from just about anywhere within 100 miles, and pitch for pitch holds some of the best alpine rock climbing in the Tetons, on the tallest and most impressive peak in the Tetons.

July 28, 2023 5

Undeniably Airy – A Free Solo Ascent of The Grand Teton’s Exum Ridge – Grand Teton N.P. (07.30.21)

In the last week of July 2021, I completed a bucket list free-solo ascent of the ultra-classic Exum Ridge route on Wyoming's second tallest peak, the Grand Teton.

August 11, 2021 4

Ropeless on the Grand Teton – An Owen-Spalding Free Solo – Grand Teton N.P. (Sept. 2018)

In September of 2018, I completed my first climb and free-solo of the Grand Teton via the Owen-Spalding Route. Here's the story of what at the time was my most monumental and perspective shifting experience in these great mountains.

July 3, 2021 2

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