Rock Climbing – Ice Climbing – Ski Mountaineering
On Saturday, September 9th, 2023, Liam Wylie and I climbed the sheer 1,000 foot South Face of Cloudveil Dome via the classic Armed Robbery (5.9, IV) route. This was by far my most efficient and seamless grade IV to date - a wonderful day out with a great friend.
On Saturday Mike Parri and I climbed the FNG Variation to the classic Aerial Boundaries. This significant four-pitch variation is nearly it's own route, but benefits from a shared (and excellent) first pitch with the original. Unlike the original, it follows a natural line up a consistent geologic weakness through the upper buttress, with many pitches of physical 5.10 climbing.
Established by Kevin Donald and Jim Erickson in 1969, The Widowmaker ascends perhaps the most impressive dihedral feature in Grand Teton National Park, characterized by abundant off-width, squeeze and chimney climbing on nearly every pitch, with supreme exposure, some loose rock and serious runouts - my wildest ride of 2023.
On August 12th, 2023, Connor James and I made a successful ascent of the Direct North Ridge on Teewinot Mountain. Graded 5.8 in 1957, this route had some wild old-school adventure flare, with extensive route-finding amidst a maze of generally high quality, but nondescript and at times quite poorly protected rock. Combine that with 12,000+ foot elevation, a bone chillingly shaded north aspect and a never-ending, unlikely, multiple thousand feet fourth and fifth class scrambling approach, and you have a recipe for a great day.
Irene's Arete is widely stated as the finest rock climb in Grand Teton National Park. Many variations are possible, but we sought the path of least resistance and cleared the ridge at 5.8, with truly remarkable positioning on a golden, awe inspiring knife's edge arete. Yep, she's a classic - but, THE classic? Oh, and we hit some traffic too.
Vieux Guide is a five pitch alternative to the standard Guide's Wall route, meeting the classic Flake Ledge after 4 pitches up to 5.9, and tackling a burly 5.10 roof crack before traversing to the final Guide's Wall pitch. Though established by "two highly regarded climbers" of the previous generation, I was disenchanted by this pretty contrived route - but a few gems are worth noting, as they can be accessed and enjoyed without climbing the entire route.
The Snake is a challenging four pitch outing in the deep caverns of Cascade Canyon, defended by a 6.5 mile trail approach that deters most parties for the length of the route. That said, it's a logical and attractive line on mostly sound rock, with two pitches of difficult 5.10 climbing.
The "Complete Exum" - "Full Exum" - "Direct Exum" - "Durrance Direct to Upper Exum" - whatever you want to call it, this 1,700 foot skyline route is one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America for a reason. You can see it from just about anywhere within 100 miles, and pitch for pitch holds some of the best alpine rock climbing in the Tetons, on the tallest and most impressive peak in the Tetons.
On July 1st, 2023, Bobbi Clemmer and I found our flow on one of our favorite GTNP routes to date, the Corkscrew Arete on the Watchtower, one of the many freestanding spires between The Grand Teton and Disappointment Peak.
The Bee's Knees is a newly developed four pitch route on the shady north wall of Prospectors Mountain, a worthy addition to an area flooded with classics.
Ten Thousand Too Far 