The "Complete Exum" - "Full Exum" - "Direct Exum" - "Durrance Direct to Upper Exum" - whatever you want to call it, this 1,700 foot skyline route is one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America for a reason. You can see it from just about anywhere within 100 miles, and pitch for pitch holds some of the best alpine rock climbing in the Tetons, on the tallest and most impressive peak in the Tetons.
Finding The Alpine Flow – The Corkscrew (5.8+, II) – The Watchtower – GTNP, WY (07.01.23)
On July 1st, 2023, Bobbi Clemmer and I found our flow on one of our favorite GTNP routes to date, the Corkscrew Arete on the Watchtower, one of the many freestanding spires between The Grand Teton and Disappointment Peak.
Just Plain Fun – The Bee’s Knees (5.9, II) – Prospectors Mountain – GTNP, WY (06.25.23)
The Bee's Knees is a newly developed four pitch route on the shady north wall of Prospectors Mountain, a worthy addition to an area flooded with classics.
Benighted in Cascade Canyon – (A Climb On) Trinity Buttress (5.9+, III) – GTNP, WY (06.24.23)
On Saturday June 24th Bobbi Clemmer and I got benighted on a wild ascent of a wet Trinity Buttress (a.k.a. Symmetry Crag 4). Originally graded 5.9 by Yvon Chouinard and T.M. Herbert in 1970, the climb ascends two-thirds of the major rock buttress west of the popular Guide's Wall with a few stellar, and a few not so stellar, pitches.
Reigniting A Classic – Hot Dogs (5.9, I) – Guide’s Wall East, Storm Point – GTNP (06.17.23)
Hot Dogs, first established by Paul Gagner and Jim Woodmency in July of 1986, is an excellent single pitch 5.9 crack climb on the south buttress of Storm Point, about 100M east of Guide's Wall - perhaps the best 5.9 pitch I've climbed in Grand Teton National Park. If you're in the area and need another pitch, don't miss this!
A 70’s Adventure – Man O’ War (5.9, II) – Ship’s Prow – GTNP, WY (06.06.23)
On Tuesday June 6th, Connor James and I climbed another could-be-classic from the Ortenburger-Jackson book. It has a cool name, follows a very proud line and, as typical for Teton routes established in the 70's, felt pretty stiff for 5.8.
First of 2023 – Lower Highway To Heaven (5.8, III) – GTNP, WY (06.04.23)
First alpine climb of the year with Mike Parri, on Lower Highway To Heaven, an adventurous "seven pitch" 5.8 outing on the SE Ridge of Storm Point. Dry rock and good times. Included is concise route description, as the one provided by the FA party is almost too descriptive and long.
[NEW] Chouinard-Frost Chimney (5.9+, IV) Topo – Disappointment Peak, North Face, Grand Teton Nat. Park (2022)
An updated and thorough topo of the Chouinard-Frost Chimney on the north face of Disappointment Peak in Grand Teton National Park.
More Sustained – Cardiac Aretes, Man O’ War Variation (5.9, II) – Ship’s Prow, Grand Teton Nat. Park (10.17.22)
A week before the onset of winter 2022, Connor James and I connected the dots on a more sustained variation to the traditional, and somewhat classic, Cardiac Aretes (5.9/5.10-, II) on Omega Buttress. Our line followed the lower half of Man O’ War (5.8, II) for two pitches of adventurous and varied, albeit discontinuous climbing... Continue Reading →
A Seven Pitch Jenny Lake Link-Up – Seizure Disorder, Direct South Ridge (Baxter’s Pinnacle, 5.10) and No Perches Necessary (5.9R) – Grand Teton Nat. Park (10.20.22)
Seizure Disorder is a single pitch 5.10- variation to the original South Ridge (5.9, II, 5 pitches) route on Baxter's Pinnacle. No Perches Necessary is a short but worthy two pitch affair at the mouth of Cascade Canyon, featuring a stellar and sustained 5.9 fist crack, and a bold 5.8R runout slab pitch. On October 20th, 2022 Jordan Creech and I linked the two routes for one seven pitch day of excellent lowland climbing in the Tetons.