Since returning from Christmas break in California, and still waiting for snow, it’s been all about the ice. Here’s a little report from the mega-classic Golden Tears (WI4+, III) with Erik Boomer. It’s in great shape right now.
Perpetual high pressure has kept me away from skis, favoring vertical adventures on both ice and rock. Last weekend Bobbi and I capitalized on some incredible el-nino January temps with two days rock climbing at the Hoback Shield and Pointless Crag. In the ensuing days temperatures plummeted but skies remained clear, perfect for multi-pitch ice climbing. After getting beat to the base of Golden Tears two weeks prior, Erik Boomer and I found ourselves back at Lake Louise with a rucksack of stoke. Our original plans involved some mixed obscurity at Hidden Lake, but sights of a plump Golden Tears were too much to pass up. On a fat year there are many ways to climb Golden Tears, with the furthest left lines generally easiest. Having sought the path of least resistance with Jorge Hedreen last year, Boomer and I targeted the center line and found a more sustained outing. The second pitch was especially spectacular, a vertical free-standing pillar with no signs of prior passage and ample fresh features for thought provoking climbing. With an inferior rack of twelve screws, one being a 7cm stubby, we broke the typical three pitch adventure into five, finishing at the highest ice point some 500 feet above. This winter is Boomer’s first year technical ice climbing, and watching his rapid progression has been inspiring. I led the first four pitches of WI4 and WI4+, but left the last pitch to my compadre who confidently raced up the final steep tier and finishing slabs for a valiant 50 meter dance. I shudder at the idea of leading such an exposed pitch of ice in my third month on tools – heck, it’s still a little daunting at the start of my third year – something tells me we’ll be swinging leads soon.
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It felt amazing to spend an entire day climbing both steep and fat ice, with great company in a special place. I spent the better half of November and December chasing heady mixed routes, nearly forgetting the magic of pure water ice. After a few hours on Golden Tears the fire has been reignited. The second pitch pillar was one of the favorite leads of my life. Entering my third season on ice I think I am finally finding my “winter dance”. We reached the car about 12 hours after casting off. House to house trips from Teton Valley to Lake Louise are tenuous, but almost always worth it.
Extra Notes
- 16 screws seems ideal for leading Golden Tiers in three pitches.
- The easiest descent, provided there are no parties below, would be directly down the route with threads. Reaching the traditional descent gully from the top of the ice is finicky.
- The WI4+ grade felt soft when I climbed the left side of the route in 2023. However, the grade felt accurate for the center line this year.
- The left side (path of least resistance) has seen generous traffic this year.
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DISCLAIMER
Ski mountaineering, rock climbing, ice climbing and all other forms of mountain recreation are inherently dangerous. Should you decide to attempt anything you read about in this article, you are doing so at your own risk! This article is written to the best possible level of accuracy and detail, but I am only human – information could be presented wrong. Furthermore, conditions in the mountains are subject to change at any time. Ten Thousand Too Far and Brandon Wanthal are not liable for any actions or repercussions acted upon or suffered from the result of this article’s reading.
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