Not a trip report. A few notes from an unsuccessful trip to the dark side of Mount Borah to help future ascentionists, with beta pictures of the North Face (AI2), Psycho Therapy (AI4, M6), Borah Borah Borah (WI3, 5.7) and some bonus ice.
On the last weekend of October 2023 Scott Melin and I ventured to the North Face of Mount Borah, Idaho’s tallest peak, for the iconic North Face alpine ice route, or one of the alluring mixed lines lower down. We got skunked do to unexpectedly high localized snow that created a difficult approach and hazardous climbing conditions. An optimal time to attempt these routes would have been during a cold snap late September or early October. I did however get some beta photos for future ascents. Included will be a few notes on the Rock Creek approach which might be useful for parties new to the area, and some bonus lower ice. Cheers!
Rock Creek Approach Notes
- There are many access roads for reaching the Rock Creek trailhead. The most efficient access is via a two track road located 0.3 miles after turning onto Double Springs Pass Road from Highway 93. Follow this two track, which abuts a fence line, straight to the forest boundary via the logical line, veering right down a brief hill to a diversion dam near the end of the road. Nice camping opportunities – room for tents and easy water access.
- The Rock Creek “trail” is a pack/game trail that begins on the right side of the creek. The most efficient approach seemed to cross the creek four times, following the path of least resistance. Bushy and potentially hard to follow. Creek crossings tame.
- There is a nice bivy spot roughly three miles up the drainage, before forking hard right towards Borah glacier. Many flat sleeping spots.
- The approach to Borah glacier takes the path of least resistance up the steep headwall barring easy access, via one of the many chutes.
- Total approach to Borah glacier is roughly five miles. We reached the headwall of Rock Creek in a casual 2-2.5 hours.
Rock Creek Ice Notes
- There are two attractive single or two-pitch ice climbs at the head of Rock Creek. We did not climb them, but they seemed to be in the WI3-WI4 range. Not worth the approach on their own, but a potential consolation prize or day after from-the-bivy activity.
- Many gnarly ice pillars are available on the north side of Rock Creek, about 2-3 miles up the drainage. These climbs are south facing, mostly pillars, and would demand optimal conditions. Easily sunbaked. Dean Lords may have the first ascent on three of these routes up to WI6. Possibility to scout from highway.
Mount Borah Ice and Mixed Routes Pictures
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DISCLAIMER
Ski mountaineering, rock climbing, ice climbing and all other forms of mountain recreation are inherently dangerous. Should you decide to attempt anything you read about in this article, you are doing so at your own risk! This article is written to the best possible level of accuracy and detail, but I am only human – information could be presented wrong. Furthermore, conditions in the mountains are subject to change at any time. Ten Thousand Too Far and Brandon Wanthal are not liable for any actions or repercussions acted upon or suffered from the result of this article’s reading.
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