The Matrix is a drytooling crag located in the Big Hole Mountains, accessed via Idaho State Highway 31 (Pine Creek Pass). Below is a crag description, route list and topo for Matrix climbers.
Description and Route List
(updated March 7th, 2025)
The nature of The Matrix is always shifting. Any route changes, ascents, or relevant beta will be added as soon as it is learned. The anchors for all routes are bolted. If the first clean top-rope ascent is made by a different person than the first lead ascent, it will be listed. For the sake of history, the first three lead ascents for every route will be documented. A red or like-colored sling on the first bolt of a route indicates the route is NOT open for leading, either because the establisher would like the first ascent or the route is incomplete (more bolts needed, loose rock, etc.) Routes are listed from south to north (left to right).
Rock Quality
The outer layer of rock at the Matrix is sharp, friable and flaky limestone undesirable for summer rock climbing. The underlying rock is compact, smooth and solid. The rock at the bottom and top of the cliff is particularly loose. For this reason, stick clipping the first bolt is highly recommended, and climbing above anchors is dangerous. Take extreme care when rigging top-ropes. In general, new routes require lots of cleaning and climber traffic to establish reliable holds. Helmets and attentive belays are paramount.
Location
Park just west of mile marker nine on Idaho State Highway 31, using a large pull out on the south side of the road. This pull out is plowed through winter, but bringing a shovel isn’t a bad idea. Walk west a few minutes until clearly spotting the crag on the north side of the road. The best approach begins just west of a yellow “road turning” sign, following the subtle grassy ridge that eventually becomes the crag. The Main Wall will be encountered early on.
Top-rope Access
Top-ropes can be set on all routes using fixed anchors above the cliff. Walk to the top of the cliff on the south side. Reality Crack, Chipped Tooth and Corner Project are best accessed from fixed sling anchors on juniper trees, likely covered in snow. A two bolt anchor above Enter The Matrix can be used to access Enter The Matrix and the Overhang Projects. Juniper anchors are used to access the Alpine Wall. Active Big Hole fauna threatens the integrity of sling anchors. Check each anchor thoroughly before committing.
Development and Ethics
New routing at the Matrix is encouraged and appreciated. Please do not bolt current top-rope routes for lead. From what we can tell the Matrix falls outside wilderness boundaries, making motorized power drills fair game. The crag founders ask that all hardware be painted a neutral and non-reflective color, and no artificial holds, either chipped or drilled, be added to the wall. All hardware should be stainless steel. Expansion bolts should be at least 3/8” in diameter and 3.5” in length. Experience dictates that double wedge bolts are the most secure in this soft rock of incredible spatial variability. Glue in bolts are welcomed. Fixed anchors, stashed ropes and hanging quick-draws are not booty. Don’t be greedy.
Key
TR = top-rope
Stars = route rating (one star worst, four stars best)
Main Wall
Where it all began. The Main Wall is the first tall sector of rock encountered on the approach, defined by a cool boulder arch feature to the south, and an extremely low-angle and unappealing break of rock to the north.
- Reality Crack (M5): The standard warm-up for harder main wall routes. Thin and cryptic hooking right off the ground leads to a vertical crack with heroic torquing. Very conservatively bolted, yet a stick clip is still advised. If only it was longer…
Height: 30 feet
Quality: ⭐️⭐️⭐️
Hardware: 4 lead bolts to vertical bolt anchor with chain and ring
First Ascent: Brandon Wanthal, December 2024
Second Ascent: open
Third Ascent: open - Chipped Tooth (M6+): Traverse to the first bolt from the right, following an in-cut pick-rail with good feet. Steep face climbing on generally positive hooks, with one AMAZING slot, leads to a tenuous mantle and heartbreaker bulge. The route was named after Brandon blew a hook and chipped his front tooth while top-roping in 2022. Lessons learned include never dry tooling with an adze, and never staring at a tool when locking off. This is a close contender for best route at the crag. Hollow rock necessitated a healthy gap between bolts one and two. Take extreme care when clipping the second bolt.
Quality: ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Height: 50 feet
Hardware: 4 lead bolts to bolt anchor with lower off carabiners
First Ascent: Brandon Wanthal, December 2024
Second Ascent: open
Third Ascent: open - Corner Project (TR, ?): Climbs the bulgy face with a steep finish just left of the corner. Proposed grade of between M5-M6. Top-rope from bolt anchor with fixed carabiners.
Quality: unknown
Height: 45 feet
Hardware: bolt anchor with lower off carabiners
First Ascent: open
Second Ascent: open
Third Ascent: open - Overhang Project #1 (TR, ?): Steep hooking up a severely overhanging crack leads to the highest point of the crag. This route has been successfully top-roped move-to-move. Proposed grade between M7 and M8.
Quality: unknown
Height: 55 feet
Hardware: bolt anchor with lower off carabiners
First Ascent: open
Second Ascent: open
Third Ascent: open - Overhang Project #2 (TR, ?): Overhanging blank face. Might be impossible, but you never know until you try. Someone call Jeff Mercier.
Quality: unknown
Height: 55 feet
Hardware: bolt anchor with lower off carabiners
First Ascent: open
Second Ascent: open
Third Ascent: open - Enter The Matrix (M6): This is widely considered the best route at the Matrix. A chossy start leads to bomber hooking up an arcing crack/ramp feature. A tenuous mantle and delicate slab move keeps matters engaging to the chains. Several strategies exist for passing the first two bolts. It is generally accepted that starting far right of the first bolt and traversing left yields the easiest climbing. Climbers have successfully passed the first bolt using a thin crack to the right, or shallow hooks to the left.
Quality: ⭐️⭐️⭐️
Height: 45 feet
Hardware: 5 lead bolts to bolt anchor with lower off carabiners
First Free Ascent: Brandon Wanthal (December 2024)
First Top-Rope Ascent: Brian Emory (2022)
Second Ascent: open
Third Ascent: open
Alpine Simulator Wall
The Alpine Simulator Wall is located just north of the “extremely low-angle and unappealing break of rock” mentioned in the Main Wall description, about 200 feet up-cliff from Enter The Matrix. The routes here are off-vertical and emblematic of what one may find in the alpine. Think chimneys, slabs and chockstones.
- The Portal (TR, M3-4): Located just beyond the broken and low angle sector north of Into The Matrix is an obvious black chimney/off-width with a hand crack in the back. Has been cleaned and onsighted on top-rope. Great for winter arm-bar/chicken wing practice. In winter, ice will grace the upper low angle slabs. The first ascent was done with several feet of piled snow likely making the start easier. The current anchor is two bolts connected with an old 7.7mm ski rope and one locking carabiner. SS hardware and lead gear will be added at the soonest availability.
Quality: ⭐
Height: 35 feet
Hardware: bolt anchor with temporary cord and one locking carabiner.
First Ascent: Brandon Wanthal & Hayden Evans (top-rope, Feb. 2025)
Second Ascent: open
Third Ascent: open - Mr. Anderson Learns To Scratch (M3): A low-angle introduction to alpine-style mixed climbing. A tricky move around a chockstone leads to a clean slab with just enough features to keep things casual. Don’t miss the world-famous mono-point slab foothold between bolts three and four. Spongy rock promoted funky placements for the first two bolts. An alpine draw may be desired for the for the first or second bolt, or just clip and go – the rope drag isn’t bad. Because the rock above this route is uncommonly clean, climbers can lead through the anchor to the top of the cliff. The last two bolts and anchor are often covered in snow or ice. Bring some rock protection when covered in snow.
Quality: ⭐️⭐️
Height: 35 feet
Hardware: 4 lead bolts to vertical bolt euro anchor
First Ascent: Brandon Wanthal, December 2024
Second Ascent: Liam Wylie, December 2024
Third Ascent: Hayden Evans, February 2025
Topos
Ten Thousand Too Far 