Rock Climbing – Ice Climbing – Ski Mountaineering
Montana's revered Hyalite Canyon is one of the best North American venues for learning mixed climbing and drytooling, two invaluable skills for serious winter climbers. Below are my five favorite beginner mixed routes in Hyalite, presented as a progression culminating with the "best single pitch mixed climb in the United States" - The Thrill Is Gone (M4+, WI4).
On Saturday April 19th, Bobbi Clemmer and I skied the Northeast Face of Mystery Mountain in Idaho's revered Sawtooth Range. We spent three days in the Sawtooths - my first ski trip outside the Tetons in many years.
Come April, May, and June in North America, reliable weather forecasts for ski mountaineering are fickle, and the parameters for good ski conditions tighten. Here's my strategy for planning a great day out.
Rising a staggering 6,000 feet directly from the foothills of Grand Teton National Park, the East Face of Teewinot Mountain is a prized ski mountaineering descent sought far and wide. Instead of the usual Teton technical couloir shenanigans, the East Face resembles primetime descents in the Montana Rockies and High Sierra - steep bowl skiing... Continue Reading →
During a high pressure cycle in late February 2020, Sam Johnson and I set our sights to Mount Wister, the criminally overlooked 11,455 foot giant lurking deep in the heart of Avalanche Canyon, Grand Teton National Park. The East Face is the peak's test-piece descent, requiring a long (for the Tetons) approach and several hundred... Continue Reading →
On a bitterly cold March 2019 morning, John Walker and I set off to attempt the "Nez Perce Trifecta" - skiing the Sliver, East Hourglass and West Hourglass Couloirs in a single push - a Teton ski mountaineering classic. We didn't quite hit the mark. High winds, deep snow and sub-zero temperatures pushed us towards... Continue Reading →
3 descents - 3 seasons - 3 sets of beta - 3 stories. If you are eyeing up this Teton classic, here's the skinny - From powder to ice, "cornslush" and beyond.
Ten Thousand Too Far 