On Saturday September 20th, 2025, I climbed another long and classic Tahquitz crack line with new partner Simon Lee. The Consolation offered several pitches of quintessential granite jamming, a particularly strenuous crux, and a few spectacular exit pitches on the venerable Whodunnit (5.9, III).
Lean Back and Pull – El Camino Real (5.10a, 6 pitches, 500′) – Tahquitz Rock – Idyllwild, CA (09.14.25)
The third pitch of El Camino Real is "one of the great layback cracks of Idyllwild"
Lead Rope Solo Vol. 2 – Dave’s Deviation (5.9, 4p, 500′) & The Jam Crack (5.8) – Tahquitz Rock – Idyllwild, CA (09.07.25)
Bob Gaines dubbed the first pitch of Dave's Deviation one of the best finger cracks in Idyllwild. The Jam Crack is a classic Royal Robbins grunt. I lead rope soloed both routes on September 7th, 2025, and took my first LRS lead fall! Spoiler alert: I'm still alive.
LEAD ROPE SOLO – El Whampo, Direct Start (5.9, III, 800′) – Tahquitz Rock – Idyllwild, CA (09.06.25)
On Saturday September 6th, 2025, I lead rope soloed my first multi-pitch route! El Whampo (5.7, II), and it's direct start via El Grandote (5.9, III), are respective classics on the legendary Tahquitz Rock.
Vertical Spelunking – Tunnel Vision (5.7+ R, 6 pitches, 770′) – Angel Food Wall – Red Rocks NCA, NV (08.30.25)
Tunnel Vision is the most unique route I've encountered in my climbing career. Four pitches of wild chimneys and wide cracks lead to the namesake "tunnel pitch", a 30 meter diagonal bombay chimney which passes through an incredible varnished tunnel almost dark enough for a headlamp. This is three dimensional climbing at its finest, and a must climb for the grade anywhere!
Touching the Holds of Legend – Whodunnit (5.9, III, 800′) – Tahquitz Rock – Idyllwild, CA (08.16.25)
Whodunnit is a physical, varied, sustained, and historical quest up the plumb line of Tahquitz Rock. Since it's first ascent in 1957 by Joe Fritschen and Royal Robbins, this route has been climbed by thousands, including about every United States climbing legend imaginable, and is revered as possibly the best route on Tahquitz. A topo and detailed route description is included for prospective climbers.
Underground Classic – Sour Mash (5.10a, 7 pitches, 700′) – Black Velvet Wall – Red Rocks NCA, NV (07.26.25)
Our last Red Rocks route before leaving Vegas for the summer - Bobbi Clemmer and I climbed the highly regarded Sour Mash. With three pitches of 5.10a and two pitches of 5.9, this spectacular route is sustained at the grade.
For the Muffin – Frogland (5.8, 6 pitches, 700′) – Whiskey Peak – Red Rocks NCA, NV (07.26.25)
Frogland is the premier moderate mutli-pitch adventure on Whiskey Peak. The rock is superb, climbing varied, descent streamlined, and difficulty generally soft for the grade.
Summer Strike – Dark Shadows (5.8, 4 pitches, 350′) – Mescalito – Red Rocks NCA, NV (07.14.25)
Alex Honnold himself called Dark Shadows "the best 5.8 in Red Rocks" - stout praise. The full route is 10 pitches long, and climbs to the top of Mescalito via several adventurous upper pitches. We climbed only the first four pitches, a common abbreviation which captures the steepest and best rock climbing closest to the... Continue Reading →
Beatdown – The Challenger (5.11a, 6 pitches, 700′) – Challenger Wall – Red Rocks, NV (07.10.25)
The Challenger is an unrelenting and sustained 5.11a rock climb, with five of six pitches clocking 5.10c or above. It's a beast - and a classic.