On November 30th Bobbi and I dusted off the Thanksgiving rust with a quick lap on the Tahquitz moderate classic, Fingertrip.
Back on the Road – Fingertrip (5.7/5.8, 4p, 400′) – Tahquitz Rock – Idyllwild, CA (11.30.25)
Rage Against the Machine – Adventure Punks (5.10d, 5p, 550′) – Challenger Wall – Red Rocks NCA, NV (11.13.25)
Adventure Punks is a rarity for Red Rocks, with five straight crack pitches, little face climbing and no lead bolts. The first pitch is 30+ meters of the best flake laybacking you'll ever do, but weighs in at the eye catching grade of 5.10b R/X, thereby limiting traffic on this otherwise classic line.
An Introductory Progression to Mixed Climbing & Drytooling in Hyalite Canyon (2025)
Montana's revered Hyalite Canyon is one of the best North American venues for learning mixed climbing and drytooling, two invaluable skills for serious winter climbers. Below are my five favorite beginner mixed routes in Hyalite, presented as a progression culminating with the "best single pitch mixed climb in the United States" - The Thrill Is Gone (M4+, WI4).
“A Route For Those Seeking Out A Journey” – Rock Warrior (5.10b R, 6p, 800′) – Black Velvet Wall, Red Rocks NCA, NV (11.08.25)
On Sunday November 8th I climbed my 2025 dream route, onsighting every pitch of Rock Warrior (5.10b, 6 pitches, 800') on the storied Black Velvet Wall of Red Rocks Canyon. I was joined by Bobbi Clemmer and Joy Seward, who both proudly flashed the route.
Worthy – Bourbon Street (5.8+, 6 pitches, 700′) via Raindance (5.10a) – Whiskey Peak – Red Rock NCA, NV (11.07.25)
Joy Seward joined the Alpine Peanut and I for a week of climbing in Red Rocks. On November 7th we kicked the trio trip off with Bourbon Street, a varied 700 foot route on the north face of Whiskey Peak, by way of the excellent 5.10a single pitch variation Raindance.
Run For Your Life – A Trip Report and Essay on Traditional Climbing Ethics (October 2025)
On October 30th I redpointed the notorious Run For Your Life (5.10b R) in Joshua Tree National Park, after taking a huge fall from the final move 24 hours earlier. This article is a trip report in essay form, examining the polarizing topic of traditional climbing ethics.
3, 2, 1, Liftoff – Spaceshot (5.6, C2, IV, 1200’) – Leaning Wall – Zion Nat. Park, Utah (10.18.25)
Spaceshot is one of the classic moderate clean aid routes and introductory big walls of North America, following a continuous 900 foot crack system in the heart of Zion National Park.
Place Less Gear to Climb Harder: 3 Lessons From Climbing My Hardest Trad Route, Ground Up, Onsight & Runout – Seams Heady 5.11b PG
Seams Heady is a renowned 5.11b "PG" trad seam in the glacial polished granite wonderland of Teton Canyon. In 2024 I completed a ground-up redpoint with no previous inspection or beta. I learned three enlightening lessons through the process.
Addendum: Irene’s Arete Variations, and a Direct Start! – Disappointment Peak – GTNP, WY (06.19.25)
On Thursday June 19th, 2025, I climbed Irene's Arete with new-to-the-Tetons desert coworker Kenzi Stemp, including a two pitch direct start which has surely been climbed before, but is undocumented and often skipped. Higher, we explored a few harder variations with pleasant rewards. This article will focus solely on the variations we climbed, and others I've climbed over the years, which add tremendous value to this already great route.
A Thirty Foot Whipper! – The Snazette (5.10c, 2p), and finish via The Snaz (5.10a, IV) – Cathedral Rock – GTNP, WY (06.21.25)
The Snazette is an especially incredible two pitch 5.10c variation to one of the Teton's already great routes, The Snaz (5.10a, IV).
Ten Thousand Too Far 