An Introductory Progression to Mixed Climbing & Drytooling in Hyalite Canyon (2025)

Montana's revered Hyalite Canyon is one of the best North American venues for learning mixed climbing and drytooling, two invaluable skills for serious winter climbers. Below are my five favorite beginner mixed routes in Hyalite, presented as a progression culminating with the "best single pitch mixed climb in the United States" - The Thrill Is Gone (M4+, WI4).

November 26, 2025 0

My Own Little World – Flashing The Thrill Is Gone (M4+, WI4) & The Matrix (M4, WI4-), Lessons Learned & Conditions Report – Hyalite Canyon, MT (2.18-2.19, 2022)

After belaying Brian Emory on his first coveted red-point of "The Thrill" just seven days before, I returned with Scott Melin to attempt an "on-sight" lead. We climbed for two days at the Unnamed Wall and Mummy Cooler Areas, ticking ascents on Mummy II, The Matrix, Feeding The Cat, The Fat One and of course, The Thrill Is Gone. A full conditions report and photos are included.

February 23, 2022 2

Hyalite Fever – First WI-4 Flash, “The Thrill Is Gone” (M4, WI4) & Conditions Report – Hyalite Canyon, MT (2.10-2.11, 2022)

Breaking news: Our Teton snowpack has achieved "grim" status - but luckily it's remained damn cold. Instead of futzing around on skis, Brian Emory and I took off to Bozeman for some mid-week ice climbing. I managed to lead & flash two WI-4's, my first at the grade, and Brian sent his long time project, The Thrill Is Gone (M4, WI-4). Read on for a few anecdotes and a conditions report in the Genesis and Unnamed Wall areas.

February 15, 2022 2