Seams Heady is a renowned 5.11b "PG" trad seam in the glacial polished granite wonderland of Teton Canyon. In 2024 I completed a ground-up redpoint with no previous inspection or beta. I learned three enlightening lessons through the process.
Returning to the Eagle Scout (WI5) – Reflections from Four 2025 Ascents – Teton Canyon, WY
The Eagle Scout (a.k.a. Mack-Tyson) pillar is the premier single pitch ice climb of the Teton Range, with "more than 100 feet of vertical or overhanging climbing" and a grade ranging from WI5- to WI6R. Having not climbed the Eagle Scout in two years, I thought I would add some notes from the perspective of a better ice climber.
Rusty’s Smears? Two Lesser Known South Fork Ice Climbs – Teton Canyon, WY (Dec. 2024 & Jan. 2025)
Over December and January I climbed and equipped two new or seldom visited routes in the South Fork of Teton Canyon that may be "Rusty's Smears", with three different partners.
Teton Canyon Ice Report & Landslide (WI4, II) Trip Report (December 14th, 2024)
Surf's up in Teton Canyon. On December 14th I climbed Landslide (WI4, II) with Bobbi Clemmer and Brian Emory. Alongside this very short trip report is a full ice report from the canyon, where most routes are in good shape.
Early Ice in Teton Canyon (November 9th-21st, 2024) – Left Ghost (WI4), The Birds (WI3) and Conditions Report
A few photos and notes from three successful early season ice climbing days in Teton Canyon. The canyon is coming into shape well. A full conditions report from all TC climbs at the bottom.
Grand Wall Topo and Southwest Face Routes – Teton Canyon, Wyoming (July 2024)
I finally got around to making a modern topo for the excellent multi-pitch rock climbs on the Southwest Face of Teton Canyon's Grand Wall. As of July 2024 there are four routes on the Southwest Face, all with their own flare. Wild Kingdom (5.7) is likely the most popular, offering enjoyable climbing and good protection... Continue Reading →
JUNE CORN! – Table Mountain and Peak 10,650 (Video TR) – Jedediah Smith Wilderness, WY (06.01.24)
A video trip report from June 1st, when Bobbi Clemmer and I enjoyed what can only be called a magical day of late spring corn skiing. We connected the North Bowl of Table Mountain and the West Ridge of Peak 10,650 for 7,000 feet of type one fun.
Totally Western – Painted Lady Couloir – Treasure Mountain – Teton Canyon, WY (02.29.24)
The Painted Lady is a rugged, seldom skied novelty descent on the west face of Treasure Mountain - a 2,200 foot descent that involves a gigantic 230+ foot rappel into a narrow slot, and a mandatory air over an ice fall... or epic butt slide. Something like canyoneering, on skis.
Subalpine Ski Mountaineering – Lost Boys, Treasure Mountain North Face – Teton Canyon, WY (02.25.24)
My second ski descent, first published on 10K2Far, of a unique, seldom skied, 2,500 foot fall-line adventure on the rugged north face of Treasure Mountain, involving a little rope work, with new partner Hayden Evans.
The Ghosts! – Right and Left (WI5 & WI4) – Teton Canyon, WY (01.05.24)
Last Friday Erik Boomer and I climbed the Right and Left Ghost Pillars in Teton Canyon, WI5 and WI4 respectively.