A bike-ice-bike kickoff to the Grand Teton National Park ice season in Cascade Canyon- a proper pump before a Tofurky feast on Indigenous People's Day.
Raw Adventure – Direct North Ridge (5.8+, III) – Teewinot Mountain – GTNP, WY (08.12.23)
On August 12th, 2023, Connor James and I made a successful ascent of the Direct North Ridge on Teewinot Mountain. Graded 5.8 in 1957, this route had some wild old-school adventure flare, with extensive route-finding amidst a maze of generally high quality, but nondescript and at times quite poorly protected rock. Combine that with 12,000+ foot elevation, a bone chillingly shaded north aspect and a never-ending, unlikely, multiple thousand feet fourth and fifth class scrambling approach, and you have a recipe for a great day.
Dike Snowfield & Peak 11,751′ (East Prong SE Face) – A Link-Up – GTNP, WY (03.18.23)
On Saturday I enjoyed a Garnet Canyon/Glacial Gulch link-up, skiing the Dike Snowfield to Teton Glacier, climbing to the Tallboy Col and eventually skiing the rarely descended SE face of Peak 11,751 (East summit of the East Prong). Both descents were personal firsts, a great day in the hills.
An Argument For Three-Piece Bail Anchors – Piton Rips on Rappel – First Hand Account [opinions]
A first hand account of a "bomber" piton ripping from a rappel anchor while ski mountaineering in the remote necks of Grand Teton National Park. Amidst a growing climate of "two-piece" alpine anchors, this article presents a compelling argument for placing a third, especially when pitons are involved. Carl rappelling from four-pieces in the Tallboy's... Continue Reading →