On Tuesday November 10th, 2025, Bobbi Clemmer, Joy Seward and I climbed Edge Dressing via Chasing Shadows on Mescalito Dome. Woah - what a final pitch!
Addendum: Irene’s Arete Variations, and a Direct Start! – Disappointment Peak – GTNP, WY (06.19.25)
On Thursday June 19th, 2025, I climbed Irene's Arete with new-to-the-Tetons desert coworker Kenzi Stemp, including a two pitch direct start which has surely been climbed before, but is undocumented and often skipped. Higher, we explored a few harder variations with pleasant rewards. This article will focus solely on the variations we climbed, and others I've climbed over the years, which add tremendous value to this already great route.
One Two Punch – The Consolation (5.9, 7 pitches, 800′) – Tahquitz Rock – Idyllwild, CA (09.20.25)
On Saturday September 20th, 2025, I climbed another long and classic Tahquitz crack line with new partner Simon Lee. The Consolation offered several pitches of quintessential granite jamming, a particularly strenuous crux, and a few spectacular exit pitches on the venerable Whodunnit (5.9, III).
Lean Back and Pull – El Camino Real (5.10a, 6 pitches, 500′) – Tahquitz Rock – Idyllwild, CA (09.14.25)
The third pitch of El Camino Real is "one of the great layback cracks of Idyllwild"
Lead Rope Solo Vol. 2 – Dave’s Deviation (5.9, 4p, 500′) & The Jam Crack (5.8) – Tahquitz Rock – Idyllwild, CA (09.07.25)
Bob Gaines dubbed the first pitch of Dave's Deviation one of the best finger cracks in Idyllwild. The Jam Crack is a classic Royal Robbins grunt. I lead rope soloed both routes on September 7th, 2025, and took my first LRS lead fall! Spoiler alert: I'm still alive.
Summer Strike – Dark Shadows (5.8, 4 pitches, 350′) – Mescalito – Red Rocks NCA, NV (07.14.25)
Alex Honnold himself called Dark Shadows "the best 5.8 in Red Rocks" - stout praise. The full route is 10 pitches long, and climbs to the top of Mescalito via several adventurous upper pitches. We climbed only the first four pitches, a common abbreviation which captures the steepest and best rock climbing closest to the... Continue Reading →
Ship’s Prow Triple – Cardiac Aretes, Annals Of Time and Dihedral Of Horrors in a Day (5.9, IV) – Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY (10.17.24)
On October 17th Lainey Fellows and I linked Cardiac Aretes, Annals Of Time and Dihedral Of Horrors for an absolutely classic day on three of Death Canyon's finest 5.9 routes - The Ship's Prow Triple.
This Ain’t No Guide’s Wall – East Face, South Buttress (5.9+, III) – Table Mountain – GTNP, WY (06.23.24)
On Sunday June 23rd Justin Gilbert and I clawed up the equally remarkable and unexpectedly difficult 1961 South Buttress route on the 1400 foot East Face of Table Mountain. 10 pitches, 15 hours, 15 miles and 5000 vertical feet later we were slightly busted, but far more stoked.