Rock Climbing – Ice Climbing – Ski Mountaineering
Seams Heady is a renowned 5.11b "PG" trad seam in the glacial polished granite wonderland of Teton Canyon. In 2024 I completed a ground-up redpoint with no previous inspection or beta. I learned three enlightening lessons through the process.
The South Teton's Southeast Couloir is one of the steeper Teton ski descents. Considering it's remarkable roadside visibility, it sees very few suitors. Now I know why.
A few photos and notes from three successful early season ice climbing days in Teton Canyon. The canyon is coming into shape well. A full conditions report from all TC climbs at the bottom.
The West Couloir of Teewinot Mountain is a stellar 5000 foot technical ski adventure on the dark side of the Owen-Teewinot Cirque. On April 11th, 2024, Mike Parri and I caught this elusive line in excellent, nearly ski-through, spring powder conditions.
On Saturday Mike Parri and I climbed the FNG Variation to the classic Aerial Boundaries. This significant four-pitch variation is nearly it's own route, but benefits from a shared (and excellent) first pitch with the original. Unlike the original, it follows a natural line up a consistent geologic weakness through the upper buttress, with many pitches of physical 5.10 climbing.
First alpine climb of the year with Mike Parri, on Lower Highway To Heaven, an adventurous "seven pitch" 5.8 outing on the SE Ridge of Storm Point. Dry rock and good times. Included is concise route description, as the one provided by the FA party is almost too descriptive and long.
Peak 12,000+ is the largest west sub-peak of the Mount Moran massif, home to a truly stellar and seldom visited ski mountaineering line we're calling the Twelve Thousand Couloir. Sustained 45 degree no-fall skiing on a 1,000 foot hanging snowfield, with a thin 55 degree escape crux, and 4,200 total feet of quality skiing to Leigh Canyon below, characterizes this "should be classic" descent.
On Monday November 21st, 2022, Mike Parri and I walked the southern wall of Teton Canyon, scouting the Eagle Scout (Mack-Tyson) Pillar and eventually climbing Boy Scout Falls in precariously thin WI3+, M3 conditions, seemingly the first ascent of winter 2022/23.
Ten Thousand Too Far 