A few photos and notes from three successful early season ice climbing days in Teton Canyon. The canyon is coming into shape well. A full conditions report from all TC climbs at the bottom.
It’s Time! – High Fidelity (WI3+, M4, II) – Hyalite Canyon, MT (11.17.24)
High Fidelity is a classic early season multi-pitch ice and mixed adventure in Hyalite Canyon, understated at the WI3+, M4 grade. Our thin conditions produced a climb closer to WI4, M5+. I was joined by the Alpine Peanut herself, a proud effort for her third day ever ice climbing. Winter is here!!
The Ghosts! – Right and Left (WI5 & WI4) – Teton Canyon, WY (01.05.24)
Last Friday Erik Boomer and I climbed the Right and Left Ghost Pillars in Teton Canyon, WI5 and WI4 respectively.
Still Classic – Round Two on Golden Tears (WI4+, III) – Wind River Range, WY (01.02.24)
Since returning from Christmas break in California, and still waiting for snow, it's been all about the ice. Here's a little report from the mega-classic Golden Tears (WI4+, III) with Erik Boomer. It's in great shape right now.
Two Lake Louise Ice Gully Variations – Wind River Range, WY (12.17.23)
On Sunday December 17th Erik Boomer and I climbed two variations to the standard and classic Lake Louise Ice Gully route in Wyoming's Wind River Range. Since the Gully has been well documented on Ten Thousand Too Far, this article will focus primarily on the variations, which are both exciting and unique ways to experience a classic climb from a different perspective.
Teton Canyon Ice Report (11.29.23)
A quick conditions report with photos from Teton Canyon on November 29th, 2023, with a few notes on GTNP route conditions. Today my partner and I biked into Teton Canyon in search of ice. We hiked to all the south facing climbs but didn't find anything in climbable shape. The Landslide Pillar (Waterfall Wall Area)... Continue Reading →
Chasing The Frozen Dragon – Lowe Route (WI4-, II) – Sphinx Mountain, MT (11.10.23)
The North Face of Sphinx Mountain is a renowned early season ice venue outside of Cameron, Montana. The Lowe Route is the trade fare, which can be climbed anywhere from WI5 to WI3 to M5. We found it in WI4 and ever so slightly mixed conditions. First ice of the season baby!
Leading WI5, Mixed and Dry – 5 Things I Learned In My Second Year Ice and Mixed Climbing (2023)
A diary reflection of my second year winter climbing, with five key takeaways.
Ovisight (WI6, IV) – South Fork Daze 4 – Cody, WY (02.2023)
Fully visible from South Fork Road, Ovisight is a three pitch WI6 climb of grand proportions, dominating the upper reaches of the Legg Creek drainage with a triad of impressive free-standing pillars, all WI5 or harder.
The Moratorium (WI4, II), High On Boulder and Pillar Of Pain (WI5, IV) – South Fork Daze 1 & 2 – Cody, WY (02.18.23)
The Moratorium (WI4) is the longest continuous waterfall ice climb (~100M, 300 feet) in the South Fork of the Shoshone River. High On Boulder is a three-pitch true classic at the WI4 grade, and when connected with the Pillar Of Pain, forms a five pitch alpine style route with two additional pitches up to WI5/6.