The Eagle Scout (a.k.a. Mack-Tyson) pillar is the premier single pitch ice climb of the Teton Range, with "more than 100 feet of vertical or overhanging climbing" and a grade ranging from WI5- to WI6R. Having not climbed the Eagle Scout in two years, I thought I would add some notes from the perspective of a better ice climber.
Sandstone Ice 2025 Part Three: Hidden Haven (WI4, II) – Parowan Canyon, Utah (01.28.2025)
Hidden Haven (WI4, II) is a unique four pitch ice adventure, ascending a tight slot canyon feature in Parowan Canyon, Utah. Bobbi Clemmer and I climbed the route on our way home from Joshua Tree - January 28th, 2025.
A Pillar That Forms Twice A Decade – Bingo World (WI5-6) Onsight – Hyalite Canyon, MT (03.08.25)
On March 8th, 2025, Bobbi Clemmer and and I climbed Bingo World (WI5-6), one Hyalite Canyon's most difficult, notorious and ephemeral freestanding pillars. The route is known to form about twice a decade.
Sandstone Ice 2025 Part Two: Joe’s Valley – The Donorcicle (WI5) and Deadbolt (WI4) – Utah (Jan. 11 & 12, 2025)
A day of high-desert ice climbing in the stunning Joe's Valley, including an ascent of the revered Donorcicle (WI5) - a 100 foot freestanding pillar.
Sandstone Ice 2025 Part One: Huntington Canyon – Coat’s Corner (WI4) and Inspired By Gravity (WI4-5) – Utah (Jan. 11 & 12, 2025)
Coat's Corner (WI4) and Inspired By Gravity (WI4-5) are the two classic climbs of Huntington Canyon, an overlooked ice venue nestled into the heart of Utah's high desert.
Rusty’s Smears? Two Lesser Known South Fork Ice Climbs – Teton Canyon, WY (Dec. 2024 & Jan. 2025)
Over December and January I climbed and equipped two new or seldom visited routes in the South Fork of Teton Canyon that may be "Rusty's Smears", with three different partners.
Consolation Prize – North Face of Mount Borah (AI2, 5.4, III) – Lost River Range, ID (12.05.24)
On December 5th, 2024, Vinny Gwinn and I climbed the North Face of Mount Borah (AI2, 5.4, III) after retreating from the nearby Psycho Therapy (5.9+, M6, WI4, III) due to a lack of ice.
Teton Canyon Ice Report & Landslide (WI4, II) Trip Report (December 14th, 2024)
Surf's up in Teton Canyon. On December 14th I climbed Landslide (WI4, II) with Bobbi Clemmer and Brian Emory. Alongside this very short trip report is a full ice report from the canyon, where most routes are in good shape.
Still Classic – Prospector Falls (WI4, II) with Bobbi! – Death Canyon, GTNP (11.24.24)
The Alpine Peanut has become an ice climber, so we headed to arguably Grand Teton National Park's most classic winter ice route - Prospector Falls. We worked our way up the main flow at solid WI4.
Early Ice in Teton Canyon (November 9th-21st, 2024) – Left Ghost (WI4), The Birds (WI3) and Conditions Report
A few photos and notes from three successful early season ice climbing days in Teton Canyon. The canyon is coming into shape well. A full conditions report from all TC climbs at the bottom.