Styrofoam Boots, also known as Spinxinated and formally the "Unknown Route", is an ephemeral gem that only forms "every decade or so" on the North Face of Sphinx Mountain. For us it was difficult and testing mixed climb of the highest quality - the route's first ascent of the season and perhaps of many years.
Eagle Scout Pillar (WI5) – A Special Day – Teton Canyon, WY (02.05.23)
The Eagle Scout Pillar, a.k.a. Mack-Tyson Pillar, is perhaps the gem of steep waterfall ice in the Teton Range. Tucked into the deep recedes of Teton Canyon, "the pillar" provides a consistent 35M of vertical or overhanging climbing ranging anywhere from WI5- to WI6R. On a fine snowy Sunday, Jorge Hedreen and I both led... Continue Reading →
Prospector Falls, Right (WI4, II) – Grand Teton N.P. – First Ice of the Year! (Dec. 2021)
Prospector Falls, also known as "Raven" or "Raven Crack" Falls, is about as classic as they come for ice climbs in Grand Teton National Park. The striking 200 foot main cascade is visible from the easily reached Phelps Lake Overlook, a favorite sight with early winter tourists. The whole route is four pitches, about 400-500... Continue Reading →
Three Shades (and Ski Descents) of Buck Mountain – East Face – Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY
3 descents - 3 seasons - 3 sets of beta - 3 stories. If you are eyeing up this Teton classic, here's the skinny - From powder to ice, "cornslush" and beyond.