Rock Climbing – Ice Climbing – Ski Mountaineering
Montana's revered Hyalite Canyon is one of the best North American venues for learning mixed climbing and drytooling, two invaluable skills for serious winter climbers. Below are my five favorite beginner mixed routes in Hyalite, presented as a progression culminating with the "best single pitch mixed climb in the United States" - The Thrill Is Gone (M4+, WI4).
On March 8th, 2025, Bobbi Clemmer and and I climbed Bingo World (WI5-6), one Hyalite Canyon's most difficult, notorious and ephemeral freestanding pillars. The route is known to form about twice a decade.
High Fidelity is a classic early season multi-pitch ice and mixed adventure in Hyalite Canyon, understated at the WI3+, M4 grade. Our thin conditions produced a climb closer to WI4, M5+. I was joined by the Alpine Peanut herself, a proud effort for her third day ever ice climbing. Winter is here!!
A diary reflection of my second year winter climbing, with five key takeaways.
The hanging WI5-6 dagger of "Mummy Four" stands as the single most impressive ice formation on the east side of Hyalite Canyon besides the ever famous Winter Dance. To reach it, Chris Hackbarth and I climbed the Scepter (WI5) and "Mummy Three" (M6, WI3) in what turned out to be an excellent grade three kind-of day in Hyalite Canyon - an alpine style climb in the land known for short approach ice cragging.
After belaying Brian Emory on his first coveted red-point of "The Thrill" just seven days before, I returned with Scott Melin to attempt an "on-sight" lead. We climbed for two days at the Unnamed Wall and Mummy Cooler Areas, ticking ascents on Mummy II, The Matrix, Feeding The Cat, The Fat One and of course, The Thrill Is Gone. A full conditions report and photos are included.
Breaking news: Our Teton snowpack has achieved "grim" status - but luckily it's remained damn cold. Instead of futzing around on skis, Brian Emory and I took off to Bozeman for some mid-week ice climbing. I managed to lead & flash two WI-4's, my first at the grade, and Brian sent his long time project, The Thrill Is Gone (M4, WI-4). Read on for a few anecdotes and a conditions report in the Genesis and Unnamed Wall areas.
Ten Thousand Too Far 