Rock Climbing – Ice Climbing – Ski Mountaineering
I recently had an article published by The High Route, focusing on TetonAT.com founder and local legend, Steve Romeo, my personal journey to ski mountaineering, and how Steve and I's world intertwined.
A day of high-desert ice climbing in the stunning Joe's Valley, including an ascent of the revered Donorcicle (WI5) - a 100 foot freestanding pillar.
Coat's Corner (WI4) and Inspired By Gravity (WI4-5) are the two classic climbs of Huntington Canyon, an overlooked ice venue nestled into the heart of Utah's high desert.
Over December and January I climbed and equipped two new or seldom visited routes in the South Fork of Teton Canyon that may be "Rusty's Smears", with three different partners.
On December 5th, 2024, Vinny Gwinn and I climbed the North Face of Mount Borah (AI2, 5.4, III) after retreating from the nearby Psycho Therapy (5.9+, M6, WI4, III) due to a lack of ice.
Surf's up in Teton Canyon. On December 14th I climbed Landslide (WI4, II) with Bobbi Clemmer and Brian Emory. Alongside this very short trip report is a full ice report from the canyon, where most routes are in good shape.
The South Couloir of Albright Peak, not to be confused with the massive "Southeast Couloir" drainage running directly to Phelps Lake, is a 3,000 foot fall-line descent with a variety of terrain, including a quirky approach, exposed entry, and a few tight chokes that may or may not beckon a rope.
We've been climbing in the Tetons all summer - it was time to head west. Bell Mountain's Northwest Face stole the show as an excellent sustained fourth class scramble on a remote and gigantic Idaho Peak, and White Mountain brought a long enduro ridge traverse to the tallest peak in the Salmon River Range.
I've been battling a partial rotator cuff tear this summer, so I've been dipping my toes into the dark arts of rope-less climbing as a way to score significant mileage on easy terrain. The Chouinard Ridge provides a 1,600' vertical adventure on clean-as-a-whistle Middle Teton granite.
On Sunday June 23rd Justin Gilbert and I clawed up the equally remarkable and unexpectedly difficult 1961 South Buttress route on the 1400 foot East Face of Table Mountain. 10 pitches, 15 hours, 15 miles and 5000 vertical feet later we were slightly busted, but far more stoked.
Ten Thousand Too Far 