Rock Climbing – Ice Climbing – Ski Mountaineering
On October 30th I redpointed the notorious Run For Your Life (5.10b R) in Joshua Tree National Park, after taking a huge fall from the final move 24 hours earlier. This article is a trip report in essay form, examining the polarizing topic of traditional climbing ethics.
Spaceshot is one of the classic moderate clean aid routes and introductory big walls of North America, following a continuous 900 foot crack system in the heart of Zion National Park.
On Thursday June 19th, 2025, I climbed Irene's Arete with new-to-the-Tetons desert coworker Kenzi Stemp, including a two pitch direct start which has surely been climbed before, but is undocumented and often skipped. Higher, we explored a few harder variations with pleasant rewards. This article will focus solely on the variations we climbed, and others I've climbed over the years, which add tremendous value to this already great route.
The Snazette is an especially incredible two pitch 5.10c variation to one of the Teton's already great routes, The Snaz (5.10a, IV).
The third pitch of El Camino Real is "one of the great layback cracks of Idyllwild"
Frogland is the premier moderate mutli-pitch adventure on Whiskey Peak. The rock is superb, climbing varied, descent streamlined, and difficulty generally soft for the grade.
The Challenger is an unrelenting and sustained 5.11a rock climb, with five of six pitches clocking 5.10c or above. It's a beast - and a classic.
Risky Business ascends some of the BEST rock in Red Rocks - an improbable and bold traditional climb connecting discontinuous flakes and seams via runout face climbing on the impressive vertical varnished face left of the equally famous Dark Shadows (5.8). Every pitch offers R rated climbing, flawless stone, and exciting movement in an epic setting.
On July 7th I climbed the Nightcrawler, a spectacular five pitch 5.10+ on the Brownstone Wall in Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. The route is claimed by many to be the best 5.10 in this world-class climbing destination - stout praise.
The South Teton's Southeast Couloir is one of the steeper Teton ski descents. Considering it's remarkable roadside visibility, it sees very few suitors. Now I know why.
Ten Thousand Too Far 