On Thursday June 19th, 2025, I climbed Irene's Arete with new-to-the-Tetons desert coworker Kenzi Stemp, including a two pitch direct start which has surely been climbed before, but is undocumented and often skipped. Higher, we explored a few harder variations with pleasant rewards. This article will focus solely on the variations we climbed, and others I've climbed over the years, which add tremendous value to this already great route.
A Thirty Foot Whipper! – The Snazette (5.10c, 2p), and finish via The Snaz (5.10a, IV) – Cathedral Rock – GTNP, WY (06.21.25)
The Snazette is an especially incredible two pitch 5.10c variation to one of the Teton's already great routes, The Snaz (5.10a, IV).
Lean Back and Pull – El Camino Real (5.10a, 6 pitches, 500′) – Tahquitz Rock – Idyllwild, CA (09.14.25)
The third pitch of El Camino Real is "one of the great layback cracks of Idyllwild"
For the Muffin – Frogland (5.8, 6 pitches, 700′) – Whiskey Peak – Red Rocks NCA, NV (07.26.25)
Frogland is the premier moderate mutli-pitch adventure on Whiskey Peak. The rock is superb, climbing varied, descent streamlined, and difficulty generally soft for the grade.
Beatdown – The Challenger (5.11a, 6 pitches, 700′) – Challenger Wall – Red Rocks, NV (07.10.25)
The Challenger is an unrelenting and sustained 5.11a rock climb, with five of six pitches clocking 5.10c or above. It's a beast - and a classic.
Clinging to the Edge – Risky Business (5.10c R, 4 Pitches, 400′) – Mescalito – Red Rocks, NV (07.09.25)
Risky Business ascends some of the BEST rock in Red Rocks - an improbable and bold traditional climb connecting discontinuous flakes and seams via runout face climbing on the impressive vertical varnished face left of the equally famous Dark Shadows (5.8). Every pitch offers R rated climbing, flawless stone, and exciting movement in an epic setting.
New Scenery – The Nightcrawler (5.10+, 5 pitches, 445′) – Red Rocks, NV (07.07.25)
On July 7th I climbed the Nightcrawler, a spectacular five pitch 5.10+ on the Brownstone Wall in Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. The route is claimed by many to be the best 5.10 in this world-class climbing destination - stout praise.
One Turn Too Many – Southeast Couloir – South Teton – Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY (05.01.25)
The South Teton's Southeast Couloir is one of the steeper Teton ski descents. Considering it's remarkable roadside visibility, it sees very few suitors. Now I know why.
Sawtooths 2025 Part Three – South Face of Williams Peak – Sawtooth Range, ID (04.21.25)
On April 21st, 2025, Bobbi Clemmer and I skied the classic South Face of 10,636 foot Williams Peak in Idaho's Sawtooth Range. With 1,600 feet of consistently pitched fall-line shred, and 3,500 some feet of skiing in full, this must be one of the finest corn descents in the Gem State. We had perfect conditions.
Connecting the Dots – Direct South Face of the Dike Pinnacle – Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY (04.29.25)
On April 29th, 2025, I skied a rare line on the South Face of the Dike Pinnacle. I'd been dreaming of connecting the dots on this improbable face for many years.