On November 30th Bobbi and I dusted off the Thanksgiving rust with a quick lap on the Tahquitz moderate classic, Fingertrip.
Rage Against the Machine – Adventure Punks (5.10d, 5p, 550′) – Challenger Wall – Red Rocks NCA, NV (11.13.25)
Adventure Punks is a rarity for Red Rocks, with five straight crack pitches, little face climbing and no lead bolts. The first pitch is 30+ meters of the best flake laybacking you'll ever do, but weighs in at the eye catching grade of 5.10b R/X, thereby limiting traffic on this otherwise classic line.
Sick! – Edge Dressing via Chasing Shadows (5.10b/c, 4p, 350′) – Mescalito – Red Rocks NCA, NV (11.10.25)
On Tuesday November 10th, 2025, Bobbi Clemmer, Joy Seward and I climbed Edge Dressing via Chasing Shadows on Mescalito Dome. Woah - what a final pitch!
An Introductory Progression to Mixed Climbing & Drytooling in Hyalite Canyon (2025)
Montana's revered Hyalite Canyon is one of the best North American venues for learning mixed climbing and drytooling, two invaluable skills for serious winter climbers. Below are my five favorite beginner mixed routes in Hyalite, presented as a progression culminating with the "best single pitch mixed climb in the United States" - The Thrill Is Gone (M4+, WI4).
“A Route For Those Seeking Out A Journey” – Rock Warrior (5.10b R, 6p, 800′) – Black Velvet Wall, Red Rocks NCA, NV (11.08.25)
On Sunday November 8th I climbed my 2025 dream route, onsighting every pitch of Rock Warrior (5.10b, 6 pitches, 800') on the storied Black Velvet Wall of Red Rocks Canyon. I was joined by Bobbi Clemmer and Joy Seward, who both proudly flashed the route.
Worthy – Bourbon Street (5.8+, 6 pitches, 700′) via Raindance (5.10a) – Whiskey Peak – Red Rock NCA, NV (11.07.25)
Joy Seward joined the Alpine Peanut and I for a week of climbing in Red Rocks. On November 7th we kicked the trio trip off with Bourbon Street, a varied 700 foot route on the north face of Whiskey Peak, by way of the excellent 5.10a single pitch variation Raindance.
Two Days in Whitney Portal – Becky Route (5.9, III) and Nimbus (5.10c, III) – Whitney Portal, CA (Nov. 2025)
On our way to Death Valley from a tortoise course in Ridgecrest, Bobbi Clemmer and I impulsively dipped our toes into the renowned multi-pitch granite of Whitney Portal. In two short days we climbed the Beckey Route on El Segundo Buttress, and Nimbus on Whitney Portal Buttress. Both were excellent.
Run For Your Life – A Trip Report and Essay on Traditional Climbing Ethics (October 2025)
On October 30th I redpointed the notorious Run For Your Life (5.10b R) in Joshua Tree National Park, after taking a huge fall from the final move 24 hours earlier. This article is a trip report in essay form, examining the polarizing topic of traditional climbing ethics.
3, 2, 1, Liftoff – Spaceshot (5.6, C2, IV, 1200’) – Leaning Wall – Zion Nat. Park, Utah (10.18.25)
Spaceshot is one of the classic moderate clean aid routes and introductory big walls of North America, following a continuous 900 foot crack system in the heart of Zion National Park.
Addendum: Irene’s Arete Variations, and a Direct Start! – Disappointment Peak – GTNP, WY (06.19.25)
On Thursday June 19th, 2025, I climbed Irene's Arete with new-to-the-Tetons desert coworker Kenzi Stemp, including a two pitch direct start which has surely been climbed before, but is undocumented and often skipped. Higher, we explored a few harder variations with pleasant rewards. This article will focus solely on the variations we climbed, and others I've climbed over the years, which add tremendous value to this already great route.