Rock Climbing – Ice Climbing – Ski Mountaineering
On Tuesday June 6th, Connor James and I climbed another could-be-classic from the Ortenburger-Jackson book. It has a cool name, follows a very proud line and, as typical for Teton routes established in the 70's, felt pretty stiff for 5.8.
First alpine climb of the year with Mike Parri, on Lower Highway To Heaven, an adventurous "seven pitch" 5.8 outing on the SE Ridge of Storm Point. Dry rock and good times. Included is concise route description, as the one provided by the FA party is almost too descriptive and long.
On May 27th Vinny Gwinn and I climbed and skied the Ford-Stettner route on the Grand Teton, the likely punctuation to another phenomenal ski mountaineering season in the Tetons.
Albright, Static and Buck is the classic, but I think this one might be more logical, at least for skiing. A ~7000 vertical foot day, somewhere in the realm of 10-13 miles, on the three peaks that crown the Stuart Draw drainage - one of the best this season.
The Zorro Snowfield is a mythical ski mountaineering descent on the northeast aspect of Spalding Peak, a winding, unintuitive journey down 1,300 feet of steep off-camber ramps underpinned by a monstrous (nearly quarter mile wide) cliff. Sadly, our conditions didn't align for the most stylish descent, but descend we did.
The North Snowfield of Spalding Peak is yet another "steeper than it looks" and overlooked line in the South Fork of Garnet Canyon, complete with a unique summit, and on May 14th was the bearer of rarefied May powder. Skiing from just below 12,240 feet, this line could possibly be the mellowest descent from 12,000 feet in Grand Teton National Park.
Mount Owen's Northeast Snowfields are a coveted and seminal tick for Teton ski mountaineers - a serious, exposed and committing 2,500 foot descent requiring at least one rappel - a line I've chased for years, and finally had the chance to bag with Vinny Gwinn on May 12th, 2023.
On April 24th Reed and I got denied in Mount Wister's Chockstone Couloir, more commonly known as the Northwest Couloir, attempting a top-down ski descent. Useful for the next descentionist?
The North Face of Peak 10,686 is home to one of the most striking ski mountaineering lines north of Mount Moran. A beautiful, meditative, solo day in the north end.
On Saturday I enjoyed a Garnet Canyon/Glacial Gulch link-up, skiing the Dike Snowfield to Teton Glacier, climbing to the Tallboy Col and eventually skiing the rarely descended SE face of Peak 11,751 (East summit of the East Prong). Both descents were personal firsts, a great day in the hills.
Ten Thousand Too Far 