Contrived? – Vieux Guide (5.10b/c, II) – Storm Point – GTNP, WY (07.16.23)

Vieux Guide is a five pitch alternative to the standard Guide's Wall route, meeting the classic Flake Ledge after 4 pitches up to 5.9, and tackling a burly 5.10 roof crack before traversing to the final Guide's Wall pitch. Though established by "two highly regarded climbers" of the previous generation, I was disenchanted by this pretty contrived route - but a few gems are worth noting, as they can be accessed and enjoyed without climbing the entire route.

August 7, 2023 3

The Snake (5.10c, II) – Yosemite Peak – GTNP, WY (07.14.23)

The Snake is a challenging four pitch outing in the deep caverns of Cascade Canyon, defended by a 6.5 mile trail approach that deters most parties for the length of the route. That said, it's a logical and attractive line on mostly sound rock, with two pitches of difficult 5.10 climbing.

August 2, 2023 1

FULL Value – Durrance Direct to Upper Exum Ridge (Direct Exum Ridge) (5.7, IV) – Grand Teton – GTNP, WY (07.09.23)

The "Complete Exum" - "Full Exum" - "Direct Exum" - "Durrance Direct to Upper Exum" - whatever you want to call it, this 1,700 foot skyline route is one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America for a reason. You can see it from just about anywhere within 100 miles, and pitch for pitch holds some of the best alpine rock climbing in the Tetons, on the tallest and most impressive peak in the Tetons.

July 28, 2023 5

Just Plain Fun – The Bee’s Knees (5.9, II) – Prospectors Mountain – GTNP, WY (06.25.23)

The Bee's Knees is a newly developed four pitch route on the shady north wall of Prospectors Mountain, a worthy addition to an area flooded with classics.

July 16, 2023 0

Leading WI5, Mixed and Dry – 5 Things I Learned In My Second Year Ice and Mixed Climbing (2023)

A diary reflection of my second year winter climbing, with five key takeaways.

June 23, 2023 0

Reigniting A Classic – Hot Dogs (5.9, I) – Guide’s Wall East, Storm Point – GTNP (06.17.23)

Hot Dogs, first established by Paul Gagner and Jim Woodmency in July of 1986, is an excellent single pitch 5.9 crack climb on the south buttress of Storm Point, about 100M east of Guide's Wall - perhaps the best 5.9 pitch I've climbed in Grand Teton National Park. If you're in the area and need another pitch, don't miss this!

June 20, 2023 1

A 70’s Adventure – Man O’ War (5.9, II) – Ship’s Prow – GTNP, WY (06.06.23)

On Tuesday June 6th, Connor James and I climbed another could-be-classic from the Ortenburger-Jackson book. It has a cool name, follows a very proud line and, as typical for Teton routes established in the 70's, felt pretty stiff for 5.8.

June 12, 2023 1

First of 2023 – Lower Highway To Heaven (5.8, III) – GTNP, WY (06.04.23)

First alpine climb of the year with Mike Parri, on Lower Highway To Heaven, an adventurous "seven pitch" 5.8 outing on the SE Ridge of Storm Point. Dry rock and good times. Included is concise route description, as the one provided by the FA party is almost too descriptive and long.

June 9, 2023 0

A Grand Finale – Cowboy Powder in The Ford Couloir – Grand Teton – GTNP, WY (05.27.23)

On May 27th Vinny Gwinn and I climbed and skied the Ford-Stettner route on the Grand Teton, the likely punctuation to another phenomenal ski mountaineering season in the Tetons.

May 28, 2023 3

“Stuart Draw Triple” – Skiing Static Peak, Buck Mountain and Peak 10,696 In A Day – GTNP, WY (05.20.23)

Albright, Static and Buck is the classic, but I think this one might be more logical, at least for skiing. A ~7000 vertical foot day, somewhere in the realm of 10-13 miles, on the three peaks that crown the Stuart Draw drainage - one of the best this season.

May 24, 2023 0